This is my very first effort of using paper mache .I call him my wee fisherman .There was a lot of bad words and some mess but in the end lm very happy .You have inspired me to do this ,you make it look easy. I love all your work and your honesty ,and cheerful laughter when things go wrong .My name is Helen McLaren originally from Scotland now live in Ireland .I started out using salt dough ,it had a lot of down falls as with many crafts ,l have tried Das air dry clay again good and bad with this clay .I have no patience being a red head doesn’t help .I do keep trying and boy when it works l feel very happy .Thanks again for all your hard work ,would love to send you pictures of some other things ,till then take care
Hi Sarah ,my name is Helen , so sorry to hear that you are having problems .I don’t know what clay you are talking about ,lam a novice at this just now .The only thing l say is l used to do salt dough .I’m from Scotland originally but now live in Ireland .I used to make a lot of small pieces like angels .Sometimes it would be great and other times awful ,the clay would crack and l had to through it out ,after spending hours on some pieces .It’s was soul destroying and l thought what’s the point .The only advice l could give is it just might be the batch of flour ,l always tried to use the same brand .Don’t give up ,if you like creating things with your hands .You might be on to something with the wet weather .l appreciate that this is a project for your work and it has to be right .I wish you all the luck in finding the fault.You get that fish and just batter it .God bless .Helen McLaren ?
Helen, Love your wee fisherman. Hope you will show us more. A great idea.
I have a sister who wants a fairy garden. Being from Ireland, you must have some great ideas. Being redheaded helps, I’m sure! I love Ireland, and a good friend is now visiting me from the Isle of Man. I’ve been searching for fairies since she arrived! Thanks for showing us. I think you’ll do great things with paper mache, as long as it gets dry!
Hi Rex ,just got your message .Thank You for your comment on my wee fisherman .of truth be told l started out going to make a Humpty Dumpty and things got kinda confused ,my temper got in the way sometimes ,oh how l wish that l had patience .I am very happy how he turned out .l have almost finished another ,l calling him him man about town .I just went for it .Will post a picture .Thanks again for your kind comment .?
HI JONNI AND EVERYONE, MADE THIS LITTLE FELLA AFTER WATCHING YOUR VIDEO ON MAKING HUMPTY . SO MUCH FUN TO DO AND IT DOESNT MATTER WHAT IDEAS YOU HAD IN YOUR HEAD BEFORE YOU START IT SEEMS IT NEVER ENDS UP THAT WAY, AND YOU CREATE SOMETHING ENTIRELY DIFFERENT, THE THING I LIKE ABOUT CREATING IS THAT WE ARE CREATING SOMETHING FROM SIMPLY MATERIALS, AND THEN WE HAVE SOMETHING NEW IN THE WORLD THAT WASNT THERE BEFORE
Wow! Wat a great Humpty Dumpty! Thank you so much for sharing it with us. In case anyone else is wondering which video Sharon is talking about, you can find it here.
I’m trying to find a good varnish or lacquer that doesn’t yellow and that sets relatively hard. One that can be brushed on rather than sprayed on as I want to make work where different parts of it have different finishes. So certain elements might have a glossy finish and other elements have a matt or satin finish.
Have any of you guys had any luck with this? It’s for my plaster work but varnishes that are good for paper mache work be great.
I use Liquitex brand varnishes and have not had any difficulty. They come in matte,satin and gloss and you can get them in any craft store in the artist quality paint section rather than in the craft paint section. The high gloss sometimes can be a bit sticky even after it dries so use them with caution. Make sure you do not overwork the varnish as they can get an opaque look that you probably don’t want. Just apply and let dry. You will need several coats. I have used these on plaster as well. Good luck!
After five years of fighting with every type of varnish I could find (spray as well as brush), I use DecoArt, Americana, DuraClear varnish. It comes in gloss and matt (maybe others). I love it. I have had trouble brushing varnish, try not to overwork it, but have never had luck until this brand. I can shake the bottle, brush it on. It doesn’t bubble, go opaque, or anything else. I add three light coats on all my paper mache projects and have had zero problems with varnish over the past year. Would absolutely put it at the top of my list. It is perfect for me.
Hello all, I hope things are going well with you. I find myself warring with my clay as of late, and I was wondering if you all had any similar experiences and could perhaps, lend some advice. I made two batches of the silky smooth Jonni clay, and each one had sections where it would bubble up before drying fully. I had to excise the parts with a knife. I’ve made this clay several times in the past, but this has never happened before. (Perhaps the weather has something to do with it? It’s been raining like crazy these past few weeks.)
My first instinct is to say that the clay was too wet. The first batch certainly was, but the second was perfect. I don’t know. Perhaps I’ll throw away the one I’m working with currently and make a new one.
Hi Sarah. Is it possible that the clay is “rising,” from yeast? How thickly has it been applied, and when did you make it? Do you keep the un-used air dry clay in the fridge between sculpting sessions? I’m just guessing, of course – I’ve never run into this problem. But if the bubbles are coming from the clay itself, there must be something creating air or carbon dioxide inside the clay. And the only thing I know of that will do that is yeast. Perhaps someone else has a better answer???
Maybe! I do keep it in the fridge normally, but this time, I was a bit lazy… All right! New batch, no leaving it out, getting new joint compound because it turns out that it expired. Oh man, thank you so much! Seems there’s always something new to learn! 🙂
I should have known something was up, when it smelled tasty. Do you think I should scrap the armature and make a new one? It still has bits of the defective clay on it, though it does seem dry now. Dry and brittle. Hrm.
Your armature should be fine. You could make extra sure by sticking it in the oven at 200F for a few minutes (if that wouldn’t melt anything) but I don’t think you’ll need to do that. Will we get to see it when it’s done?
I threw it away. I’m sorry. I’m not in the best frame of mind, I haven’t been in the last month or so. I’m supposed to be teaching a class on how to make a fish wall-hanging, and I’m altering the techniques so that kids (14+) can do it too, and it has to be done in a set amount of time, and it’s just not working and I am emotionally exhausted. This is the second armature I’ve thrown away. I’ve never done that before now.
I love art. I love making things and seeing what you and the other people on here are making but this. I can’t describe this other than it feels like my soul has been sucked out.
Hi Sarah. I understand your frustration. Creating a sculpture for yourself is a very different process from making something that others can enjoy making, too. But I have a solution for you. The very best paper mache book I’ve ever read for kids is Paper Sculpture. It’s out of print, and really expensive on the US Amazon.com site, but you can find it at a reasonable price at amazon.co.uk, and they ship quickly. (That’s how I got mine). That link will take you right to it. The projects are fun, and there’s a fish.
Thank you, Jonni. Being able to verbalize that made a world of difference, and I’ve got most of my groove back. I’m going to order the book you recommended, it looks very cute.
Here’s a picture of the latest armature. And a link to a video that has my latest sculpture in it. (It’s towards the very end.)
Hi Sarah. Your image didn’t work – it was probably too large. If you can edit it to be smaller than 250kb, please try again. In the meantime, we’ll check out that video!
I also go with Jonni! The only problems I have had making clay, other than too hard or too soft, is when I add the WRONG joint compound (DAP creates a total mess — don’t do it) or add too much joint compound, which may cause cracking. It doesn’t bubble, though. I have said this to many times I’m sure people are sick of hearing it, but when I found the formula I loved, I began measuring the ingredients in grams. It works every time if I don’t get too sloppy. Here is my weight recipe of Jonni’s smooth air dry clay. I know the frustration part, and throwing stuff out is the answer at times. Best of luck. Hope you show us your creations. I love that you are teaching 14+ kids how to do art. Great.
Air-Dry Smooth Clay
½ c toilet paper 24 grams dry, 110 grams wet ½ c Elmer’s glue 130 grams ½ c joint compound 200 grams (NOT DAP) ½ c corn starch 70 grams 3 T mineral oil (baby oil) 34 grams ½ c flour 70 grams Knead in up to another ½ c flour to the consistency you like.
Good afternoon, I was just wondering if anyone knows if paverpol is strong enough to use to sculpt a small set of stairs so my old cat could still climb up and sit on the window sill. I was thinking of using some old wooden tubs of various heights then wrapping these in either paper or fabric soaked in paverpol before painting. Do you think this would work? Thanks Rebekah
Hi Rebekah. I haven’t used the product yet, but maybe Eileen or Hasia will find your comment and offer some advice. I really like the idea of the stairs – cats love sitting on the window sill, and it would make your kitty very happy if she had a way to get up there safely.
Rebekah, I have used paverpol quite a bit and it sounds like it could work. I would definitely wood glue the steps together first because while paverpol works as a glue, it may not be strong enough to hold the wood steps together. If it is an old cat, I would try and use a fabric that has a bit of texture. I wonder if a smooth fabric would be too slippery for an older cat. If you use the bronze or black paverpol, you won’t need to paint. If you use the clear, use a fabric that has a pattern you like and you won’t need to paint either! Good luck and make sure you post your finished steps(and cat) so we can see the results!
I don’t know the answer to this one. I only use acrylic varnish, but it might be possible to add a coat of lacquer, too. It’s a matter of chemistry, and I’d hate to give you the wrong answer. Maybe one of our other readers could help us out?
I don’t know the answer, either, but I know a neighbor varnished a table with two types of “varnish” and needed to strip the whole thing, so be careful! Good luck.
I “saved” your photo, went into my picture folder to turn it right side up, and never got back. I really like it. One of my favorite dragons. Great job, and please send us an update photo (upsidedown or not!) when you get it painted. Thanks.
Quick update. I’m not sure if it is okay to share these as they are made of alpha plaster and not paper, but the moulds I made for them could definitely be used for paper too for similar results. Following some of the advice I’ve gotten here I’ve been experimenting a fair bit and I’m starting to make work that I am happy with and gradually working towards scaling up my work.
I thought I’d share some of my results.
These were made starting with cardboard models, and then using silicone caulking to make moulds, and then smearing plaster on the back of the thin silicone moulds to make them keep their shape.
You can see some of the steps/progress on my instagram account here https://www.instagram.com/benscottpye/ if you’re interested. I wont spam lots of images here and use up the space on your site.
I’m just using artist quality acrylic paints meant for painting rather than models, but they still do the trick. I found watering them down a bit so you can see the plaster very slightly through them looks better than painting on thick for some reason. Once I’d put down the colours I gave it a couple of coats of spray gloss lacquer which makes it looks a little bit like glazed ceramic. Then I mixed a brown with a black and watered it down a fair bit and gave it a wash to help pick out the form, but I’m thinking maybe I should have done that before the lacquer because it all pools up and doesn’t cling to the cast very well. And the part that made it really pop was a mix of white and yellow ochre dry brushed on to pick out the edges and little imperfections.
Before the dark wash and the light dry brush it looked a bit like an eye sore so I highly recommend using those, especially if you’re painting something with sharp edges and you want to make them look hard.
I finished off by dry brushing all over with bronze metallic acrylic.
I’ve never tried those little pots of acrylic model paints. They are very expensive. Possibly worth it though?
I’ve never tried those model paints. It might be fun to try, but you’re getting wonderful results doing it your way. I love the layered look you’re getting with the washes.
Very nice, Benjamin. And we don’t mind if you share work made with materials other than paper mache. In fact, we love all the creative things that people do.
I know a lot of people are looking for less expensive silicone mold options. I tried the caulk method (I can’t remember what recipe) and it didn’t work well for me – but you’re obviously getting great results. Would you have any interest in writing a guest post for us, showing how it’s done?
I had a lot of trouble with the oogoo stuff when I was using it a while ago.
This isn’t really a recipe. You just squeeze the silicone caulk into a bowl of very soapy water and kneed it for a minute or so and then carefully press it into the details of the model that you’re taking a mould from. While it’s under water it wont stick to your fingers, and if you keep your hands damp with soap water it wont stick to your hands out of the water either.
It also loses a lot of its stickiness through the process, but the nice thing is that you can actually make a big mould in lots of parts. You don’t have to prepare it all at once. It will stick to itself nicely if you press it. I was worried I would be limited to making moulds for very small things, but for that piece I had to use four blobs and I don’t think there were any noticeable seam marks.
The imperfects in the moulds are due to me casting from a model made of foam board and card which got wet and did some weird stuff but you probably wont get that casting from models made of sturdier materials.
Do you mind waiting a week or two for the post? I’m waiting for some more foam board to come in the mail so I can make a new model to take a mould from. I’ll just take photos of my process.
This is the video that I watched that got me excited to try it. It’s so simple and easy compared to making/using oogoo:
On ebay you can find some ridiculously cheap bundles of silicone caulking. I got 6 tubes of out of date stuff for £5 and it works fine. Normally it’s £2.50-£5 a tube in shops here in the UK.
Hi Benjamin. Yes, of course it’s OK to wait a week – or whenever you have time. It’s really nice of you to consider it, and it’s obvious you’ve had a lot of experience with different variations. Thanks! I’ll send you an email in a day or two to explain how to send a guest post. 🙂
This is another of my summer projects, a fairy house made of Pal Tiya for the garden. It is different than my usual subjects but it was fun and challenging.
Eileen, I have a sister who wants a fairy garden very badly! While visiting a cousin this past week, we walked into the hills and took photos. Don’t you think this would make a nice fairy house (community)? Any suggestions. And could you please tell me how you did the armature for your house. It looks great?
Here is one of my summer projects- it is done in Pal Tiya Premium and can be put into the garden. While so much of sculpting with Pal Tiya is so similar to paper mache, drying time is totally different. Paper Mache=fast drying, Pal Tiya=really slow drying. I have had to adapt. With paper mache I work on one project at a time( not like our buddy Rex!)but with Pal Tiya, I have several going at once. I will post as I finish and get their pics.
David, how in heavens name are you going to get it out of that room? It looks fabulous and I cant wait to see the finished sculpture! Make sure you show us!
Hi Jonni I’ve got the opportunity to contribute to a project our small town is running by making a paper mache elephant. It can be any size up to 1m x1m but must be waterproof and weatherproof as it will stand somewhere in the town. I’d love your advice as to the best recipe and finish to use…and any other tips you may have to give me, if possible please. Hoping to hear from you. Best wishes Dru Cole
Hi, I used your basic pattern. The changes are. Eyes: drew eyes on paper then glued a clear cabochon on them, then glued to dragon. Wings: wire structure with fantasy film front and back, set with a heat gun (google fairy wings for tutorials) I included a coffee stirrer in the sculpture and glued a wing wire in it. Fire: clear thermoplastic colored with alcohol ink (form it with a heat gun) Michelle
Hi Michelle. Your dragon sounds wonderful. Did you try to upload a photo? If you did, it didn’t come through. It probably needs to be edited to make it smaller. You can edit your file using this free online picture resizer. I do hope you’ll try again – we’d love to see it!
This is my very first effort of using paper mache .I call him my wee fisherman .There was a lot of bad words and some mess but in the end lm very happy .You have inspired me to do this ,you make it look easy. I love all your work and your honesty ,and cheerful laughter when things go wrong .My name is Helen McLaren originally from Scotland now live in Ireland .I started out using salt dough ,it had a lot of down falls as with many crafts ,l have tried Das air dry clay again good and bad with this clay .I have no patience being a red head doesn’t help .I do keep trying and boy when it works l feel very happy .Thanks again for all your hard work ,would love to send you pictures of some other things ,till then take care
I love it, Helen! Thanks for showing him to us.
Hi Sarah ,my name is Helen , so sorry to hear that you are having problems .I don’t know what clay you are talking about ,lam a novice at this just now .The only thing l say is l used to do salt dough .I’m from Scotland originally but now live in Ireland .I used to make a
lot of small pieces like angels .Sometimes it would be great and other times awful ,the clay would crack and l had to through it out ,after spending hours on some pieces .It’s was soul destroying and l thought what’s the point .The only advice l could give is it just might be the batch of flour ,l always tried to use the same brand .Don’t give up ,if you like creating things with your hands .You might be on to something with the wet weather .l appreciate that this is a project for your work and it has to be right .I wish you all the luck in finding the fault.You get that fish and just batter it .God bless .Helen McLaren ?
Helen, Love your wee fisherman. Hope you will show us more. A great idea.
I have a sister who wants a fairy garden. Being from Ireland, you must have some great ideas. Being redheaded helps, I’m sure! I love Ireland, and a good friend is now visiting me from the Isle of Man. I’ve been searching for fairies since she arrived! Thanks for showing us. I think you’ll do great things with paper mache, as long as it gets dry!
Hi Rex ,just got your message .Thank You for your comment on my wee fisherman .of truth be told l started out going to make a Humpty Dumpty and things got kinda confused ,my temper got in the way sometimes ,oh how l wish that l had patience .I am very happy how he turned out .l have almost finished another ,l calling him him man about town .I just went for it .Will post a picture .Thanks again for your kind comment .?
SORRY FORGOT TO UPLOAD THE PIC FOR THE PREVIOUS COMMENT
Awsome!
That’s a great humpty. They have a life of their own, no matter what you say. That’s what I believe! Cute egg.
HI JONNI AND EVERYONE,
MADE THIS LITTLE FELLA AFTER WATCHING YOUR VIDEO ON MAKING HUMPTY . SO MUCH FUN TO DO AND IT DOESNT MATTER WHAT IDEAS YOU HAD IN YOUR HEAD BEFORE YOU START IT SEEMS IT NEVER ENDS UP THAT WAY, AND YOU CREATE SOMETHING ENTIRELY DIFFERENT, THE THING I LIKE ABOUT CREATING IS THAT WE ARE CREATING SOMETHING FROM SIMPLY MATERIALS, AND THEN WE HAVE SOMETHING NEW IN THE WORLD THAT WASNT THERE BEFORE
CHEERS EVERYONE
Wow! Wat a great Humpty Dumpty! Thank you so much for sharing it with us. In case anyone else is wondering which video Sharon is talking about, you can find it here.
Hi
I’m trying to find a good varnish or lacquer that doesn’t yellow and that sets relatively hard. One that can be brushed on rather than sprayed on as I want to make work where different parts of it have different finishes. So certain elements might have a glossy finish and other elements have a matt or satin finish.
Have any of you guys had any luck with this? It’s for my plaster work but varnishes that are good for paper mache work be great.
I use Liquitex brand varnishes and have not had any difficulty. They come in matte,satin and gloss and you can get them in any craft store in the artist quality paint section rather than in the craft paint section. The high gloss sometimes can be a bit sticky even after it dries so use them with caution. Make sure you do not overwork the varnish as they can get an opaque look that you probably don’t want. Just apply and let dry. You will need several coats. I have used these on plaster as well. Good luck!
After five years of fighting with every type of varnish I could find (spray as well as brush), I use DecoArt, Americana, DuraClear varnish. It comes in gloss and matt (maybe others). I love it. I have had trouble brushing varnish, try not to overwork it, but have never had luck until this brand. I can shake the bottle, brush it on. It doesn’t bubble, go opaque, or anything else. I add three light coats on all my paper mache projects and have had zero problems with varnish over the past year. Would absolutely put it at the top of my list. It is perfect for me.
I agree with Rex. I bought some after he first recommended it, and I think it’s great.
Hello all, I hope things are going well with you. I find myself warring with my clay as of late, and I was wondering if you all had any similar experiences and could perhaps, lend some advice. I made two batches of the silky smooth Jonni clay, and each one had sections where it would bubble up before drying fully. I had to excise the parts with a knife. I’ve made this clay several times in the past, but this has never happened before. (Perhaps the weather has something to do with it? It’s been raining like crazy these past few weeks.)
My first instinct is to say that the clay was too wet. The first batch certainly was, but the second was perfect. I don’t know. Perhaps I’ll throw away the one I’m working with currently and make a new one.
Hi Sarah. Is it possible that the clay is “rising,” from yeast? How thickly has it been applied, and when did you make it? Do you keep the un-used air dry clay in the fridge between sculpting sessions? I’m just guessing, of course – I’ve never run into this problem. But if the bubbles are coming from the clay itself, there must be something creating air or carbon dioxide inside the clay. And the only thing I know of that will do that is yeast. Perhaps someone else has a better answer???
Maybe! I do keep it in the fridge normally, but this time, I was a bit lazy… All right! New batch, no leaving it out, getting new joint compound because it turns out that it expired. Oh man, thank you so much! Seems there’s always something new to learn! 🙂
I should have known something was up, when it smelled tasty. Do you think I should scrap the armature and make a new one? It still has bits of the defective clay on it, though it does seem dry now. Dry and brittle. Hrm.
Your armature should be fine. You could make extra sure by sticking it in the oven at 200F for a few minutes (if that wouldn’t melt anything) but I don’t think you’ll need to do that. Will we get to see it when it’s done?
I threw it away. I’m sorry. I’m not in the best frame of mind, I haven’t been in the last month or so. I’m supposed to be teaching a class on how to make a fish wall-hanging, and I’m altering the techniques so that kids (14+) can do it too, and it has to be done in a set amount of time, and it’s just not working and I am emotionally exhausted. This is the second armature I’ve thrown away. I’ve never done that before now.
I love art. I love making things and seeing what you and the other people on here are making but this. I can’t describe this other than it feels like my soul has been sucked out.
Hi Sarah. I understand your frustration. Creating a sculpture for yourself is a very different process from making something that others can enjoy making, too. But I have a solution for you. The very best paper mache book I’ve ever read for kids is Paper Sculpture. It’s out of print, and really expensive on the US Amazon.com site, but you can find it at a reasonable price at amazon.co.uk, and they ship quickly. (That’s how I got mine). That link will take you right to it. The projects are fun, and there’s a fish.
Thank you, Jonni. Being able to verbalize that made a world of difference, and I’ve got most of my groove back. I’m going to order the book you recommended, it looks very cute.
Here’s a picture of the latest armature. And a link to a video that has my latest sculpture in it. (It’s towards the very end.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hh5rQ_Q21ck
Hi Sarah. Your image didn’t work – it was probably too large. If you can edit it to be smaller than 250kb, please try again. In the meantime, we’ll check out that video!
I also go with Jonni! The only problems I have had making clay, other than too hard or too soft, is when I add the WRONG joint compound (DAP creates a total mess — don’t do it) or add too much joint compound, which may cause cracking. It doesn’t bubble, though. I have said this to many times I’m sure people are sick of hearing it, but when I found the formula I loved, I began measuring the ingredients in grams. It works every time if I don’t get too sloppy. Here is my weight recipe of Jonni’s smooth air dry clay. I know the frustration part, and throwing stuff out is the answer at times. Best of luck. Hope you show us your creations. I love that you are teaching 14+ kids how to do art. Great.
Air-Dry Smooth Clay
½ c toilet paper 24 grams dry, 110 grams wet
½ c Elmer’s glue 130 grams
½ c joint compound 200 grams (NOT DAP)
½ c corn starch 70 grams
3 T mineral oil (baby oil) 34 grams
½ c flour 70 grams
Knead in up to another ½ c flour to the consistency you like.
Good afternoon,
I was just wondering if anyone knows if paverpol is strong enough to use to sculpt a small set of stairs so my old cat could still climb up and sit on the window sill.
I was thinking of using some old wooden tubs of various heights then wrapping these in either paper or fabric soaked in paverpol before painting.
Do you think this would work?
Thanks Rebekah
Hi Rebekah. I haven’t used the product yet, but maybe Eileen or Hasia will find your comment and offer some advice. I really like the idea of the stairs – cats love sitting on the window sill, and it would make your kitty very happy if she had a way to get up there safely.
Rebekah,
I have used paverpol quite a bit and it sounds like it could work. I would definitely wood glue the steps together first because while paverpol works as a glue, it may not be strong enough to hold the wood steps together. If it is an old cat, I would try and use a fabric that has a bit of texture. I wonder if a smooth fabric would be too slippery for an older cat. If you use the bronze or black paverpol, you won’t need to paint. If you use the clear, use a fabric that has a pattern you like and you won’t need to paint either! Good luck and make sure you post your finished steps(and cat) so we can see the results!
My good friend came to visit from the British Isles. We are having a great time creating pumpkins – uh, leprechauns. This is the pre-paint stage.
What great characters, Rex. I can’t wait to see how they look when they’re painted.
I just had a question.
Can you apply lacquer after putting the poly acrylic on or should it be done before or even at all?
Thanks
Kim
I don’t know the answer to this one. I only use acrylic varnish, but it might be possible to add a coat of lacquer, too. It’s a matter of chemistry, and I’d hate to give you the wrong answer. Maybe one of our other readers could help us out?
I don’t know the answer, either, but I know a neighbor varnished a table with two types of “varnish” and needed to strip the whole thing, so be careful! Good luck.
My latest project: This is prior to painting.
That’s amazing, Kim. I don’t know why it’s upside down, but that tail is fantastic.
Thank you Jonni,I am not sure why it is upside down.
Will we get to see it after it’s painted? I do hope so!
I “saved” your photo, went into my picture folder to turn it right side up, and never got back. I really like it. One of my favorite dragons. Great job, and please send us an update photo (upsidedown or not!) when you get it painted. Thanks.
Hi!
Quick update. I’m not sure if it is okay to share these as they are made of alpha plaster and not paper, but the moulds I made for them could definitely be used for paper too for similar results. Following some of the advice I’ve gotten here I’ve been experimenting a fair bit and I’m starting to make work that I am happy with and gradually working towards scaling up my work.
I thought I’d share some of my results.
These were made starting with cardboard models, and then using silicone caulking to make moulds, and then smearing plaster on the back of the thin silicone moulds to make them keep their shape.
You can see some of the steps/progress on my instagram account here https://www.instagram.com/benscottpye/ if you’re interested. I wont spam lots of images here and use up the space on your site.
The colors are wonderful – what kind of paint are you using?
I’m just using artist quality acrylic paints meant for painting rather than models, but they still do the trick. I found watering them down a bit so you can see the plaster very slightly through them looks better than painting on thick for some reason. Once I’d put down the colours I gave it a couple of coats of spray gloss lacquer which makes it looks a little bit like glazed ceramic. Then I mixed a brown with a black and watered it down a fair bit and gave it a wash to help pick out the form, but I’m thinking maybe I should have done that before the lacquer because it all pools up and doesn’t cling to the cast very well. And the part that made it really pop was a mix of white and yellow ochre dry brushed on to pick out the edges and little imperfections.
Before the dark wash and the light dry brush it looked a bit like an eye sore so I highly recommend using those, especially if you’re painting something with sharp edges and you want to make them look hard.
I finished off by dry brushing all over with bronze metallic acrylic.
I’ve never tried those little pots of acrylic model paints. They are very expensive. Possibly worth it though?
I’ve never tried those model paints. It might be fun to try, but you’re getting wonderful results doing it your way. I love the layered look you’re getting with the washes.
Very nice, Benjamin. And we don’t mind if you share work made with materials other than paper mache. In fact, we love all the creative things that people do.
I know a lot of people are looking for less expensive silicone mold options. I tried the caulk method (I can’t remember what recipe) and it didn’t work well for me – but you’re obviously getting great results. Would you have any interest in writing a guest post for us, showing how it’s done?
Sure. I would be up for that.
I had a lot of trouble with the oogoo stuff when I was using it a while ago.
This isn’t really a recipe. You just squeeze the silicone caulk into a bowl of very soapy water and kneed it for a minute or so and then carefully press it into the details of the model that you’re taking a mould from. While it’s under water it wont stick to your fingers, and if you keep your hands damp with soap water it wont stick to your hands out of the water either.
It also loses a lot of its stickiness through the process, but the nice thing is that you can actually make a big mould in lots of parts. You don’t have to prepare it all at once. It will stick to itself nicely if you press it. I was worried I would be limited to making moulds for very small things, but for that piece I had to use four blobs and I don’t think there were any noticeable seam marks.
The imperfects in the moulds are due to me casting from a model made of foam board and card which got wet and did some weird stuff but you probably wont get that casting from models made of sturdier materials.
Do you mind waiting a week or two for the post? I’m waiting for some more foam board to come in the mail so I can make a new model to take a mould from. I’ll just take photos of my process.
This is the video that I watched that got me excited to try it. It’s so simple and easy compared to making/using oogoo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jFjaVuueEU
On ebay you can find some ridiculously cheap bundles of silicone caulking. I got 6 tubes of out of date stuff for £5 and it works fine. Normally it’s £2.50-£5 a tube in shops here in the UK.
Hi Benjamin. Yes, of course it’s OK to wait a week – or whenever you have time. It’s really nice of you to consider it, and it’s obvious you’ve had a lot of experience with different variations. Thanks! I’ll send you an email in a day or two to explain how to send a guest post. 🙂
This is another of my summer projects, a fairy house made of Pal Tiya for the garden. It is different than my usual subjects but it was fun and challenging.
I love it, Eileen. Especially those leaves on the roof. The fairies in your garden will love it, too. 🙂
Eileen, I have a sister who wants a fairy garden very badly! While visiting a cousin this past week, we walked into the hills and took photos. Don’t you think this would make a nice fairy house (community)? Any suggestions. And could you please tell me how you did the armature for your house. It looks great?
And can Teca get credit in the search for fairies. She took me far and wide. I think you can see her on the skyline on the left-side of this photo.
Sorry. Here it is
If you look right below “is” on the skyline in my comment below, you can see a red spot — looks just like another cliff — that is Teca.
Boy, that girl can travel! How did she make it up all those rocks? They’re bigger than she is!
The back door of the fairy house.
Here is one of my summer projects- it is done in Pal Tiya Premium and can be put into the garden. While so much of sculpting with Pal Tiya is so similar to paper mache, drying time is totally different. Paper Mache=fast drying, Pal Tiya=really slow drying. I have had to adapt. With paper mache I work on one project at a time( not like our buddy Rex!)but with Pal Tiya, I have several going at once. I will post as I finish and get their pics.
It’s beautiful, Eileen. What a wonderful piece of art for your garden!
This is a dragon I am working on It ended up being a little biger then what I had planed.
David, how in heavens name are you going to get it out of that room? It looks fabulous and I cant wait to see the finished sculpture! Make sure you show us!
Wow! You really outdid yourself with this one, David – and my goodness he’s big! I can’t wait to see how he looks when it’s finished.
Wow! Please please please show him to us again when he’s finished! He’s wonderful, and I want to see the rest of him!
Jonni
I forgot to add, it’s called:
Revenge of the Cage Chickens
I like that. I love real chickens, and it’s so hard to think of them trapped in cages.
Right, 2nd picture.
We feed cheese to maggies and butcher birds.
And so………
You’ve turned your feathered friends into art critics! What a great photo. 🙂
I’ve done the 1st project in your book – which just happened to be another chicken.
It needs 2 photos if I can get them om.
I love the colors, Barry. Thanks for showing both photos!
Many thanks Jonni..I’ll check out your recommendations.
Best wishes
Dru
Hi Jonni
I’ve got the opportunity to contribute to a project our small town is running by making a paper mache elephant. It can be any size up to 1m x1m but must be waterproof and weatherproof as it will stand somewhere in the town.
I’d love your advice as to the best recipe and finish to use…and any other tips you may have to give me, if possible please.
Hoping to hear from you.
Best wishes
Dru Cole
Hi Dru. I don’t personally recommend paper mache for outdoor sculptures, although several readers, including Tom with his life-sized bear, swear by the product Flex Seal to waterproof paper mache. I prefer to use Apoxie Sculpt, and I have heard wonderful things about Pal Tiya – both those products were originally created to be waterproof. Another great option is Aqua Resin, a waterproof, non-toxic fiberglass product.
Hi, I used your basic pattern. The changes are. Eyes: drew eyes on paper then glued a clear cabochon on them, then glued to dragon. Wings: wire structure with fantasy film front and back, set with a heat gun (google fairy wings for tutorials) I included a coffee stirrer in the sculpture and glued a wing wire in it. Fire: clear thermoplastic colored with alcohol ink (form it with a heat gun) Michelle
Hi Michelle. Your dragon sounds wonderful. Did you try to upload a photo? If you did, it didn’t come through. It probably needs to be edited to make it smaller. You can edit your file using this free online picture resizer. I do hope you’ll try again – we’d love to see it!