Jonni’s Paper Mache Paste Recipe

Get a fast start on your next paper mache project or hand-made gift with Jonni’s easy downloadable patterns for masks, animal sculptures and faux trophy mounts. The patterns help you create a beautiful work of art, even if you’ve never sculpted anything before.

paper mache paste

This paper mache paste is a lot faster to make than the boiled version, and I think it works just as good. In my tests the raw paste was just as strong as the cooked version, and it dried just as hard. If you prefer the boiled version, I’d love to hear your opinion in the comments on this post

The “recipe” is just flour and water. The video shows the quick way I mix the paste to make it nice and smooth – it takes just a few seconds, much less time than it takes to actually watch the video.

I hadn’t made any paper mache paste for several years, because most of the sculptures I’d been making used the paper mache clay, the smoother air-dry clay, or the fast-setting paste made with glue and plaster that I use for my masks. But I’ve been making a lot of it lately, since I’m working on a series of 25 little dogs for my next book, and I’ve really been enjoying it. It’s messy, of course, but there’s something almost meditative about placing those little pieces of wet newspaper over a form, and having such simple products turn into something with a character of it’s own.

On a completely different note, I’ve had two emails this week from two different set designers who need full-sized elephants for stage productions, and both people need their elephants to be strong enough to hold someone on their backs (four people in one case!) and they have to move across the stage. The one with four riders needs to walk rather than roll or glide. I have no idea how someone would design the innards for a project like this. They would have to be light enough to move, strong enough for the riders, and balanced well enough so it couldn’t possibly tip over. To fall from that height could really hurt someone.

Do you have any advice for these folks? (And don’t the jobs of set designer and scene artist sound like fun? Why did I spend my “working” life typing and answering the phone???)

 

102 thoughts on “Jonni’s Paper Mache Paste Recipe”

  1. I have a school project to do and it’s do in two days. I want to know what type of paper mâché I would use. It’s a mask project the mask is called an antelope African mask.

    Reply
    • It’s possible, but not probable, that you could get a piece dry if you use two layers of paper and as little flour and water paste as possible. The cooked paste can be thinned out a bit more, so you tend to use less. Paper mache is not a quick process, though, because you really have to give your piece plenty of time to dry. Put it together right now, with newspaper strips and paste, and put it in front of a fan or somewhere with warm moving air. Don’t paint it until it’s dry all the way through, or it will eventually grow mold in the wet paper and ruin the sculpture.

      Good luck with it. With that kind of schedule, you’re going to need it!

      Reply
      • I read that adding salt will help avoid mold from growing. Have you used salt for this, and did it help?

        Reply
        • I haven’t tried it, but many of my readers say it will work. I make sure to dry my sculptures quickly, so I never have a problem with the sculpture molding. Salt might also slow down the action of wild yeast in the paste that’s sitting in the bowl, but I only make up enough to use in one sitting, rather than saving it from one day to the next.

          If you live in a humid climate, the salt is probably a really good idea. Some people prefer to use a few drops of oil of clove.

          Reply
          • Thanks for your prompt response, Jonni. I just discovered your site, and am enjoying it. Love your creativity.

            Reply
  2. Hi Jonni,

    Great website. I’m planning to make some festive pinatas for my grade 3 class. I made paper mache penguins before but they all moulded quite quickly. Silly question – do I put 1 layer down first, let it completely dry, then add another layer? or can I do 2-3 layers in one sitting?

    Thank you!

    Reply
    • Hi Dexter. The trick with preventing mold is to make sure the sculpture dries as fast as possible. The best way to do that is to put it in front of a fan where warm moving air will pull the moisture from the paper mache. It doesn’t help to let each layer dry before adding another one, because water from the new wet paper mache will seep down into the dry layers anyway. Once the piece is really, really dry, all the way through, seal it with paint and acrylic varnish. Once sealed, it shouldn’t mold if it’s stored in a dry room.

      One problem that I think grade school classes run into is that more paste is used than is really needed, and the large number of sculptures drying in one place brings up the humidity in the room and it makes it hard for the sculptures to dry. That’s especially true in the winter, when you can’t really turn on a fan or open a window. Are there heating vents in the room? Maybe the sculptures could be placed right over the heaters?

      One final thought – although it’s a bit more expensive, you might consider using Elmer’s art paste, which is made with methyl cellulose. One small box makes a lot of paste, so it isn’t terribly expensive. The cellulose isn’t as attractive to mold, and it’s thinner than flour and water paste, and kind of slick, so it’s harder to use too much – and with less water on the sculpture, the piece will dry out sooner.

      Reply
  3. Hi Jonni,
    I am going to do a paper mache deer, My plan is to use an old Christmas lighted deer, the kind you see in people’s yards at Christmas time with lights on them. I will cut all the lights off and stuff the wire form with newspaper the paper mache over the wire, I am hoping that the paper mache will attach to the newspaper inside the wire frame. I would like you input on this. Do you think this would work? Thank you for your time. I love all of your work.

    Reply
  4. Hi Jonni!

    I’m a first year architecture student and for my final design submission for the first semester I was thinking of making my model using paper mache….I was thinking if you could guide me how I could make the armature for it using things found around the house. The picture shows the section of the building…its basically a teardrop kind of a shape. I could really use some help!
    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Sneha. Your photo didn’t come through – it was probably too large. Can you edit the image to make it smaller and try again?

      You can make your armature using cardboard and masking tape. Flat pieces of wet cardboard tends to warp, so you may want to do a few experiments first, to see what works best for you.

      Reply
      • Hi I don’t know if this helps but I mad a paper mache pirate ship for my daughter that went on top of a radio flyer wagon. I never did paper mache be for except as a kid. But I do have a unique skill which I look at things and find different applications for them. So with the frame of the boat I used card board and built a shell of the boat. Then using a map for smoking bbq I drenched the card board with the paper mache liquid I came up with. Water flour and sta flo. Then I took Simpson strong ties which are for building houses I used the ones that were a inch thick and, 36inches long. They are really thin so they can bend to go along with the shape of a pirate ship. I used washers nuts and bolts to secure the metal on the card board. The I made this connectors at for points front back and mid left and kid right so that when lowered on the boat it would stay on it and be balanced. And it needed to be strong that’s y I connected it to the metal frame. Then I just applied layers of paper around the frame both front and back kinda of like sandwiching the frame in between paper mache. Needless to say it worked amazing and was so much stronger than I thought it would be. I guess for the elephant u need to have some one who knows a Lil about construction or bridge making. For ideas for a light structure that can distribute the weight evenly enough to support the people. It’s amazing what structural engineers can come up with. In high school I took drafting for four years and one of the projects was to build a bridge out of popsicle sticks and to which design could handle the most Weight I was shocked to c what people came up with

        Reply
        • That sounds like a great project. Do you happen to have a photo you could share, so we could see how it came out?

          Reply
  5. Hello Jonni,
    Thank you for providing so much information on your blog about paper mache! I am just about to start making a mask, and I was wondering which mixture you think would produce a stronger finished mask, the flour paste, or the white glue? Thank you very much!

    Reply
    • Samantha, I haven’t done a scientific study comparing the two, but either one should be plenty strong enough for a mask. I believe the Venetian masks were traditionally made with cooked flour paste. (1/4 cup all-purpose flour, 3/4 cup water, cooked over medium heat until it thickens. Allow to cool slightly.) This might be the best choice, because it dries clear and is quite strong.

      Reply
  6. Hi Jonni,

    I am doing a mosaic project and we use paper mache paste . We were told to search the recipe – still the best to use.

    Question – I made some saturday night to try. Do I need to keep it in the refrigerator? And for how long can I keep and use a batch?

    Reply
    • It’s best to keep it in the refrigerator if you don’t think you’ll use it all at once. But it’s even better to make a small batch at a time, and just make more if you work on the project later. The raw flour and water recipe is really fast to make, so if you make small batches, you never have to worry about yeast or mold getting into the mix.

      Reply
      • Hi Jonni

        Thanks for the reply. Haven’t done this before so I would rather be safe than sorry.

        All the best.
        Martie

        Reply
    • Hi there im from south africa amd wanted to do a pothead using paper mache to make a mould for the concrete head , any suggestions on making the mache mould to pour the concrete in ?

      Reply
      • Hi Roddy. I can’t imagine using a paper mache mold to make something with concrete. Do you mean to make the original with paper mache, then make a mold of that using plaster of Paris or silicone or some other material, and then pouring the concrete?

        The concrete stays wet for hours, and paper mache will melt when soaked with water. I don’t know of any product that will work well enough to waterproof paper mache for the length of time required.

        Reply
  7. Hi Jonni,
    i have watched the elephant sculpture video a couple of times on wonderhowto and on youtube and I caught your comment about mixing joint compound with cellulose insulation for details. Would you please tell me the amounts or parts to each other to get a good mixture? I am working with high school art students and just getting started on making skulls for Dia de los Muertos. The celluclay recommended by studiohaycross would be too pricey for our 30 students. I am volunteering at the school as an art teacher and must be very budget minded. thanks so much for any help

    Reply
    • Hi Angie. That joint compound and cellulose insulation idea was the beginning of an idea that eventually led to the paper mache clay recipe. With just joint compound and the insulation, it’s only good for filling in cracks and such -but has no strength of it’s own, and must be covered with more layers of paper mache clay. You might be interested in either the paper mache clay or the air dry clay recipes – but if you’re working with students use mineral oil instead of the linseed oil, to avoid the chemicals.

      Reply
  8. I wanted to share these with you. Created with paper and glue, sealed with clear resin. I showed these at a recent art show. Love the paper mache creations you make! I am enjoying learning more about it every time I try something new. Great videos and posts. Thank you for sharing what you do!

    Lora Lee

    Reply
  9. Good morning!

    Love your creations! I’m hoping one of your recipes might work for me. I make jewelry using paper – recycling Nat Geo magazines, art prints, magazines, junk mail, etc. We are doing many festivals and are now moving up to higher end shows. I have to upgrade my display for indoors. I’d like to make some busts for necklaces and bracelets and thought the paper mache would work. Any thoughts as to which one? I will probably weight the bottom of them due to shows at the beach and high winds. I want the rest of it to be as lightweight as possible for travel/packing. Thank you so much for any advice you might give me. I love your comment about why did you spend so much time working and answering phones. I just retired from teaching and am wondering the same thing. I loved teaching but creating with paper, paint, etc. is absolutely wonderful!!

    Have a great Sunday.
    Take care,
    Linda Patrick
    Laurindalee’s Paper Bead Jewelry

    I am including a picture of my first bracelet I made using paper – a picture of blue yarn….

    Reply
    • Hi Linda. Your jewelry is beautiful, and I can see why you would want a nice way to display your pieces. I think if I needed some display busts, I’d start with cheap Styrofoam heads, like they use for wigs and hats. That would give some inner support for the paper mache, but it would still be very light. The bottom of the foam head could be taped to a cardboard base, and the base could be filled with plaster of Paris.

      The paper mache clay recipe is very strong, so I’d probably give the busts one thin layer using that recipe. Your busts will probably be moved around a lot, and you need something that won’t break easily. It isn’t indestructible, of course, but it does dry hard and strong. Since you probably want the busts to be more interesting than the shapes of the foam heads, you can build up features with crumpled paper or aluminum foil first, and hold it on to the foam with masking tape. Then cover with a thin layer of the pm clay. If you need the busts to have a smoother finish, you could then add one more layer using the air dry clay (use glue and water mixture over the pm clay to make sure the new air clay will stick). Or, if you’d like more of a folk-art look, you could skip the pm clay and use a few layers of paper strips and paste over the busts.

      Good luck with this project. Be sure to post a photo when you’re done, so we can see how they come out.

      Reply
  10. Love your site, & all the things you do, they are fantastic!!!!! Can you email me the ingredients for your air dried paper clay……it’s amazing stuff, it looks like the best one to use…..I want to make a container for flower arranging in, it’s a special shape & I know I can’t buy anything like it. Once again thank you for all your inspiration & all the YouTube videos you do.

    Reply
    • Hi Maggie. The air dry clay ingredients are listed on this page, under the video. However, it isn’t “real” clay, and isn’t waterproof. We’ve tried a variety of protective sealants to make it waterproof, and none of them have been good enough to trust long-term, even in the rain – let alone being used as a water-filled container. Of course, if you’re making dried flower arrangements, it wouldn’t matter. 😉

      Reply
    • Some people like to add salt to slow down mold, but I never do. If you dry your piece quickly, it isn’t needed – but many people swear by it. Just a matter of preference, I think.

      Reply
    • I am preparing to start working with your paper mache for creating sculptures. After reading as much as I can on your blog and site, I have a couple of questions before I begin, however. 1) Can you tell me if one can use your new clay in layers, can I put fresh clay over some that has dried with out any bad effects? Do I have to accomplish my sculpture all in one day? 2) how long does your new clay stay ‘open’? Can I work it for a day, perhaps? I live in a very low humidity climate and I know this will affect the drying time.
      Thank you for considering my questions.

      Reply
      • Hi Judith. Yes, you can add new layers to dry layers. I do it all the time. So no, you don’t have to do it all in one sitting. 🙂

        If you’re thinking about using the original paper mache clay recipe, it can stay open for several hours with no ill effect. The newer air dry clay recipe will stiffen up a little, especially on top, so you should try to keep it covered whenever you can. I like to drape a plastic bag over the bowl, and just lift the bag when I need to take some out.

        I hope this helps. Be sure to let us see your sculptures when they’re done!

        Reply
        • Thank you very much for your quick reply. I am so excited…after trying ceramic sculpture, stone & wood carving and bronze casting, I think your method will fit my needs and personality much better. As soon as I have something presentable I will certainly share. Your generosity with information is very much appreciated.

          Reply
    • In your starfish video you mention that you use a combination of Elmer’s glue and wall joint compound to prep your paper mache before painting. Can you please tell me the proportions for that? Thank you.

      Reply
      • Sally, I don’t really have a specific recipe. I just mix up the two ingredients, using more joint compound when I want it to be thicker to cover more dips and irregularities, and more glue when I want it to be self-leveling. However it’s mixed, you want to apply it thinly. You can use as many coats as you want, though – but if you put it on too thickly it may cracks. Cracks can be easily smoothed over with a damp brush or sponge.

        Reply
    • My daughter used the info you share to make an elephant head for her highschool zoology class. So thankful to you for sharing your knowledge and recipes. I am going to attach a pic of her elephant. Thanks again.

      Reply
      • Sheila, if you tried to post a photo of the elephant head, it didn’t work. The image probably needs to be edited to make it smaller. I really want to see it, so I hope you’ll try again!

        Reply
  11. My wife’s aunt loves cheetah prints and we would like to find a full size one but unfortunately all of our searches turned out negative. I am pretty good with projects so I am sure I could make one but I still need a bit of help. Do you have one listed on your site?

    Thanks in advance..

    Reply
    • Hi Jose. We don’t have a cheetah here – not yet, anyway. You could use the cat series of videos to see the process I use to make sculptures of animals, but use a cheetah photo for your model instead of a domestic cat. You can find all the links to that series on the extended paper mache tutorials page. (scroll down towards the middle of the page to find them.)

      Reply
  12. i made a paper mache that i could sculpt around a plastic egg so that i can dip them in wax. somebody cave me recipe using linseed oil,toilet paper,glue,joint compound and flour. i don’t understand texture it is to gooie to work with. am i missing a step? i use to make egg and all from balloon,flour & water just takes to much time.foam eggs cost to much & plastic one will melt. please help.

    Reply
    • Hi Jami. I think you’re referring to my paper mache clay recipe, which you can find here. It won’t be as smooth as your egg, because of the paper. Paper strips and paste over an egg might actually give you the best results, since you only need one or two layers. That is, if you intend to leave the plastic inside the paper mache. If you want to have completely hollow eggs, you would need more layers. Two or three layers, using the blue paper shop towels, should be strong enough when dry, and you’d have a nice smooth surface.

      Reply
  13. Jonni, I found this interesting because in the olden days (before discovering your pm clay recipe) I only made piggy banks. For the “bank” part, I used a balloon and covered it with newspaper dragged through liquid starch. I would let it dry and make 4 or 5 layers.

    I just thought to look at the ingredients. Water, corn starch, castor oil, and other stuff! Interesting. Flour and water sounds pretty safe.

    I used to put flour in the freezer to kill any weevil. ???

    Thanks so much. I CAN’T WAIT for the dog book. I made a pattern for the Chihuahua dog (converted to a min pin pattern) but can’t find it, so I get to start over! I love your videos.

    Reply
    • I’m glad you used to use liquid starch, Rex, because I just bought a bottle of the stuff. I’m asked fairly often for paste recipes that people can use if they’re allergic to gluten, and the liquid starch is something that I’ve seen suggested on other sites. I haven’t used it yet, but you made some great piggy banks, so it must work OK. Maybe I’ll take some time to play with it today.

      I hope you find that min pin pattern! I can’t wait to see how your group of dogs turns out.

      Reply
      • The brand I use is Sta-Flo. I know you preach about making sure clay is dry so it doesn’t mold, and the same with this. It hardens well. My biggest problem is that the air in the balloon expands and contracts and so it is a race between the drying time and the shape of the balloon; in other words, the balloon gets smaller or larger and the form collapses.

        I want to do a rhino piggy bank (another baby on the way) so I’m looking at your video about cutting it apart and putting it back together so the inside is empty. There are so many things I want to do, but I’m trying to make some progress on the house fixing – an endless story, no doubt. Thanks for the pattern.

        Thanks for everything. Starting on the dog patterns again! ;>)

        Reply
  14. I can hardly wait for your new book on dogs! I have my fingers crossed that there’s a Boston Terrier included!? I would be forever “in your debt” if there is. 🙂 My sister has two BT and they are her life so I am always making something BT related for her and I’m about to run out of ideas! LOL Love your work

    Reply
    • Hi Tracey. I don’t have a Boston Terrier on my list, unfortunately. My very first dog, when I was four or five, was a Boston Terrier. He would guard our fishing resort from all the customer’s dogs, and take on Great Danes, Pit Bulls, you name it. They always backed down, too – but he was so gentle with us kids. They’re great dogs. Maybe I’ll be able to fit one into the next book. 😉

      Reply
  15. Bonjour à vous. Merci pour votre générosité, vous êtes inspirante! Désolée d’écrire en français mais si vous voyiez la qualité mon anglais, vous comprendriez ;-). Concernant l’éléphant, je vous suggérerais les techniques que nous utilisons pour faire des meubles en carton (voir mon blog). Ces techniques s’inspirent de celles utilisées pour fabriquer les ailes d’avion et les coques de bateau. Les meubles sont légers et très solides. De grands architectes tel Frank O’Gherry nous ont fait découvrir ces techniques. Pour avoir fait des décors de toutes grandeurs, je peux vous affirmer que l’association “structure de carton” et “papier mâché” pourrait répondre aux besoins des scénographes. Ainsi, peut-être qu’ils pourraient communiquer avec des artisans-cartonnistes de leur coin de pays. Sinon, malgré que je demeure au Québec, si je peux être utile… Merci Jonni, je me régale de vos réalisations si belles! Louise Camirand, artisane-cartonniste à Trois-Rivières, Québec.

    Reply
    • Per Google Translate, Louise said: Hello to you. Thank you for your generosity, you are inspiring! Sorry to write in French but if you see the quality my English, you would understand ;-). On the elephant, I suggest the techniques we use to make cardboard furniture (see my blog). These techniques are based on those used to manufacture airplane wings and boat hulls. The furniture is light and very strong. Great architects such as Frank O’Gherry helped us discover these techniques. For making sets of all sizes, I can tell you that the association “cardboard structure” and “paper mache” could meet the needs of designers. So maybe they could communicate with artisanal cartonnistes their hometown. Otherwise, even though I live in Quebec, if I can help … Thanks Jonni, I enjoy your accomplishments so beautiful! Louise Camirand, artisan-cartonniste in Trois-Rivières, Quebec.

      Thanks, Louise. I’m sure this will be helpful to the folks making elephants. And I’ll be checking your blog, too, because we get a lot of people looking for ideas about making furniture out of paper mache.

      Reply
      • Hi Jonni, I find YouTube to be a great resource for ideas and I found a tutorial in French of course on how to make a cardboard lamp. Here is the link if anyone is interested.
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1GbjiRnuaU
        I am still researching on sites that show the furniture process but what I found is interesting so far. I found a site also in French on making cardboard furniture classes. It seems the French have the expertise in that medium.

        Reply
        • Hi Christine. I’ve looked at those French furniture sites, and it looks like they use a lot of cardboard. I’d love to try it someday.

          Reply
  16. Hi Jonni,
    I love, love, love your website and your art. I have a crazy idea but I can’t find any information on it, so I don’t know if the idea is too crazy to even try. (I’m sorry if this isn’t the right place to ask you.) Here it is:

    1. Use an old tent, but take the fabric off and just leave the poles as an armature.
    2. Wrap chicken wire around the structure for extra support and as a base for paper mache exterior. OR cover the tent-pole-armature with a cloth-mache made of sheets as a base for paper mache exterior. Or use both?
    3. Cover the entire thing with paper mache to make a cool fort for kids.
    4. If you don’t think tent poles would be strong enough, how about the skeleton of an old metal gazebo?

    Could this work??

    Questions:
    1. Would chicken wire or cloth-mache be better to use as an interior base over the tent poles, but beneath the paper mache exterior? Or something else?
    2. If I did the cloth-mache interior, would it be best to waterproof it before applying paper mache so the paper mache doesn’t melt/collapse it when it goes over it?
    3. I want it to be very strong, so would you suggest using traditional paper mache (with the paper strips), or mache clay (which I think is stronger)?
    4. How many layers of paper mache would you suggest, and is it necessary to waterproof between layers?
    5. If this idea is feasible at all, do you think I could waterproof the entire thing and keep it outside as a semi-permanent structure? I realize it wouldn’t last forever, but maybe just for the summer–we live in Texas and we are in a drought so I don’t expect much rain.

    Could I ask two unrelated questions? (I am writing a novel and part of the story contains large paper mache sculptures, but I have never seen one close up.)
    1. Approximately how heavy are the lifesize paper mache sculptures (for example, the dinosaurs or baby elephants)? In other words, could one of them be heavy enough to be difficult for one person to move?
    2. Would a large sculpture like that ever be hollow on the inside?

    I hope it’s not inappropriate to ask you for so much information. If so, I apologize! Thank you so much, and also thank you for your wonderful and extremely informative website. –Jen

    Reply
    • Hi Jen. I’m not sure about the tent idea – maybe someone else could answer that one for you. As for the weight of the sculptures, it depends on how they’re made. A hollow sculpture that’s big enough for someone to get inside is possible, if the skin is reinforced with chicken wire or rebar. My sculptures are made over crumpled paper, which can get really heavy. My baby elephant is around 50 pounds or so, and I need help to move the dragon. Next time. I’ll cut a big one in half, take out the paper, stick it back together with some sort of reinforcing — and then I’ll be able to move it around a lot easier. Some people make decorative pieces for parade floats using cardboard built up in the right shape, and then covered with paper mache. These are hollow, and light enough to move around, so sure – your novel’s characters could get inside a paper mache sculpture, if it was hollow.

      Reply
      • Jonni,
        You made my day! First, because of your kindness in replying to my questions, and second, because you gave me the answers (concerning research for my novel) that I wanted to hear. I’m so relieved that I won’t have to go back and make changes for accuracy–and I’m extra happy because I got my info from the paper mache expert! Thank you so much.

        I’ll keep checking back to see if anyone has any input on the tent idea.

        Thanks again for everything. –Jen

        Reply
  17. I’ve wondered about creating a paper mache sculpture strong enough to withstand little ones climbing on it or sitting on it and not having it cave on them….
    Actually I’m writing about the flour paste. I’ve held off using it because I’m worried about bugs making a home in it over time. As much time and effort it takes (me in particular) to make a piece I would really hate to have bugs start eating thru it….what do you think about my worry here??? LOL

    Reply
    • Hi Sharon. I’ve never had any trouble with mice or bugs eating my paper mache, but I do make sure to let it dry all the way through before painting it. and then I seal it really well with an acrylic varnish. The critters would have to chew through the varnish and paint to get to the sculpture, but I suppose if they’re hungry enough, they might manage it. I make sculptures to sit in my living room, too, rather than making holiday decorations that need to be stored in the attic or garage, and that might be why I never have any problems with any little creatures getting the munchies. I have some sculptures here in my house that have been around for a very long time, and they look just the same as they did the day they were finished. Ideas, anyone?

      Reply
      • Thanks for putting it up here Jonni
        I was thinking more of bugs (weevils) that might be hybernating in the flour. Then eventually eating the piece from the inside out.
        Years ago I stuffed the bottom of a cloth doll with rice and you probably know what happened there.
        Of course cooking the flour might take care of those little buggers.
        I don’t know about the corn starch either. Rice is different I know…but when I finally learn a lesson in my art projects, it pretty much sticks with me.

        Reply
        • Interesting – I wonder if drying the piece in a warm oven would get rid of weevils? Millions of items have been made with this recipe (I’m not the only one using it) so this must not be a very common problem. People in the tropics might have some problems with it, of course, since they have more bugs, I think.

          So – has anyone ever had any problem with bugs eating their paper mache from the inside out? Let us know if you have, and what you did about it.

          Reply
  18. I love the regular paper mache recipe, but unfortunately i found that mice like it too. It can attract mice, so ive been usi.g wall paper adhesive, t

    Reply
  19. Jonni- to answer your question about the elephants, I used to do costuming, etc for my kids middle school productions. One year they wanted a full sized elephant and one was made out of pvc piping, chicken wire, and the classic paper mache. We had 4 kids wearing gray sweatpants that were actually behind the legs of the beast so it did “walk”, as it were. It did not carry anyone but pvc is pretty strong and a platform on top could be made. Ours was on rollers as well as being “walked” by the students. Lines were taped on the stage for the students to follow. It wasn’t perfect but it did get a great reaction. Because we did not have your clay at the time, regular paper mache was used. It needed repair after every performance but gray duct tape did a great job. I don’t know how professional your queries want it but it is an idea anyway.

    Reply
    • That sounds like such a fun project! I’ll let those folks know about your elephant – I like the way you had the elephant walk across the stage. They might be able to do something similar to that.

      Reply

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