The recipe for paper mache clay
- 1 1/4 cups damp toilet paper
- 1 cup premixed drywall joint compound in a plastic tub* see note below before purchasing joint compound!
- 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-All or any PVA glue
- 1/2 to 1 cup white flour (adjustable)
- 2 tablespoons mineral oil (optional)
*Important: (Elmer’s Glue won’t work with DAP. If you use DAP, use Gorilla Wood Glue, instead of Elmers. Wurth brand joint compound will not work with any glue.
If you have a kitchen scale, you can use this recipe with gram measurements.
You can also make colored paper mache clay – click the link to see how.
What does it look like when it’s dry?
If you’d like to see what your sculpture might look like when you use this recipe, I finished many of my sculpture and mask patterns with paper mache clay, or with a combination of this recipe and traditional paper strips and paste.
Yes, I do sometimes use both. The clay doesn’t like covering the sharp edges of ears, and it’s easier to wind narrow strips of paper and paste around long thin shapes, like the wire used for bird legs or tiny animal sculptures.
For everything else, I use paper mache clay or one of the variations of this recipe.
Why I Created the Recipe for Paper Mache Clay:
Over ten years ago I became frustrated with traditional paper strips and paste. I couldn’t get fine details, like I could when sculpting with real clay. It took too much time to add all those layers of paper mache. And it was messy.
But I wanted to sculpt, and paper mache was the only affordable option.
That’s why I created this original (and still my favorite) recipe for paper mache clay.
- It’s affordable.
- It uses common ingredients that you can find at your local DIY store or Walmart.
- And it helps you create beautiful sculptures that you can be proud of. This is not the kind of paper mache you made back in grade school!
I put this recipe for paper mache clay on this blog and on YouTube about ten years ago. It has now been used by millions of people around the world, and I get emails and comments every day from people who tell me they love it!
How do you use it?
You use a knife to apply paper mache clay in a really thin layer over your armature, almost like frosting a cake. You only need a very thin layer, because it dries hard and strong, even with as little as 1/8″ applied to your sculpture.
How long will it last?
Once the material is completely dry, painted and sealed, it will last for years.
When it’s still in the bowl, it will last several days if you cover it tightly to keep it from drying out. Put it in the fridge if you can’t use it again for a week or two, because the organic materials in the recipe can attract mold while it’s still wet. If you want it to last longer, put it in the freezer, and it will last indefinitely.
Can you sand it?
Yes, but I almost never do. Paper mache clay dries really hard, and sanding it is a pain in the rear. Plus, you need to wear a mask, because you don’t want the fine powder in your lungs.
And you probably want to do it outside, because that fine dust will go all over your house.
What do I do instead? I use drywall joint compound, which I always have on hand because it’s one of the main ingredients of the recipe. To see exactly how I do it, watch my video that shows you how to make paper mache smooth without sanding.
(And yes, it works with traditional paper strips and paste, too.)
When I really have to sand my paper clay I use my little electric sander.
Are there other options?
Yes, there are several alternative recipes. Go ahead and try them all, and see which one you like best.
- If you like to create fine details, the way you might if you were using real clay or polymer clay, try the silky-smooth air dry clay recipe. It uses the same ingredients, plus corn starch, but there’s less paper in the mix so it’s great for detailed textures and details. Many readers have also used it in small silicone molds for jewelry, and they say it works well. I haven’t tried that yet, myself, so do some experiments to see if it works for you.
- If you need a recipe that can be used for outdoor sculptures, check out the paper cement clay recipe. It’s only been tested for a little over a year so far, so consider it experimental – but many people have had very good luck with it.
- If you need a recipe that can be used with any brand of joint compound, use my new favorite paper mache clay recipe.
How to make paper mache clay:
You’ll need several large bowls, some measuring cups, a spoon and an electric mixer.
The supplies you need for paper mache clay are:
Elmer’s Glue-All, or any PVA glue. Most white glue will work. The Clear Glue from the Elmer’s company also works.
Drywall joint compound – any brand except DAP or Wurth. Those brands don’t work because they turns into rubber when mixed with glue. If you can’t find any brand except DAP or Wurth, use this recipe instead. (It’s a very new recipe, and it’s now my favorite. 🙂 )
If you aren’t sure what joint compound is called in your country, click here.
Note: There is a warning on the joint compound container that says you should wear a mask when you sand it because it contains silica. Silica is a very hard mineral (most sand is made out of silica) and you don’t want the fine powder in your lungs. I never sand paper mache clay myself, but if you do, be sure to wear a mask. (You should wear a mask when you sand anything!)
To make your paper mache clay smooth without sanding, watch this video.
White flour. The flour thickens the paper mache by soaking up the water. If you can’t use the flour for any reason, you’ll want to use this variation of the paper mache clay recipe instead.
Toilet paper. Any brand will work, so buy the cheapest brand you can find.
Some people use recycled paper instead. In fact, ever since the toilet paper shortage in early 2020, more and more people have made the recipe with old newspapers or the brown paper that Amazon.com uses inside it’s cartons. The texture of the final mix may be slightly different, but recycled paper works just fine. To see a video about using recycled paper in paper mache clay, click here.
Mineral oil (baby oil) or linseed oil – this is totally optional. The oil changes the ‘feel’ of the paper mache clay while you’re working with it, but the recipe works just fine without it. Don’t use boiled linseed oil if children will be helping you with your sculpture, because it contains chemicals.
More patterns for paper mache:
Related Posts:
Step 1: Soak and measure your paper.
The first thing we need to do is get our paper ready. We want about a cup and a quarter of wet paper. You can use any cup to measure with – it doesn’t have to be exact.
Put the paper in hot water to get it wet, and press it down into a measuring cup until you have about a cup and a quarter of wet paper. Then put it back in the hot water. You want all the paper fibers to be separated. Just swirl the paper around with your fingers and the toilet paper will completely fall apart.
Step 2: Press out the water.
You want to press most of the water out of the paper, but you have to be really careful that you don’t press out too much.
If you press out so much of the water that it’s almost dry, it won’t fall apart when you run your mixer. You’ll end up with big globs and bumpy lumps in your paper mache clay.
So go ahead and test it in your hand. Can you push it around and have it come apart, even though most of the water has been pressed out? Then you’re good to go.
Step 3: Add joint compound and glue to the paper mache clay mixture.
Now you can add the drywall joint compound and glue, and start mixing.
What is drywall joint compound? This product is made for the construction industry when they build interior walls. The joint compound is used to cover the edges between two sheets of drywall (also called gypsum board, plaster board and sheet rock). You’ll find it in the paint department at Walmart, or in any DIY store.
If you live in a country where they don’t make flat walls out of plasterboard or drywall, you won’t be able to find drywall joint compound in your stores.
A lot of people ask me, “Can you make paper mache clay without drywall joint compound?” No, you can’t – this recipe requires the joint compound.
If you can’t find the joint compound in your country or if you don’t want to use it, this site has projects that use the traditional paper mache mixture of softened paper and paste.
Mix your paper, joint compound and glue for several minutes. You want the mixer to tear all of the paper fibers apart so it’ll be nice and smooth.
Step 4: Add the flour and oil.
You’re going to use the white flour to thicken the paper mache clay. The flour soaks up the excess water in the mixture, and makes it easier to spread the paper mache or create sculpted details.
The amount of flour you need depends on how you want to use your paper mache clay, and how much water was left in the paper. Just keep adding more until you get the consistency you want.
For instance, if you want a really thin layer like I use when I’m covering my mask patterns, or when I want to create a hard solid surface with my first layer, I’ll use a small amount of flour to make a really thin mixture of the paper mache clay.
But when I want to add texture, or if I want to actually sculpt with the paper mache clay like I did with my snowy owl, then I’ll add more flour.
A note about the beaters: I add 1/2 cup of flour to start with, using the standard beaters. When I need more flour, I’ll switch to the dough hooks.
My mixer didn’t come with the dough hooks, like this one does, but I use some old ones I have from another mixer, and they fit.
If you don’t have the bread-mixing beaters, the paper mache clay has a tendency to crawl up the standard beaters. The mixture will also become very heavy, and could burn out the motor in a small mixer if you use the standard beaters.
Another option is to mix the flour in by hand.
An alternative to a kitchen mixer: If you need to mix up a lot of the paper mache at one time, perhaps for a workshop or a very large project, you can use a paint mixer attachment for an electric drill instead of a of a kitchen mixer, and a plastic pail instead of a bowl.
Step 5: Apply your paper mache clay to your armature.
Use a knife to spread a thin layer of paper mache clay over your armature. If you’ll be using the paper mache clay to add finer details, it’s easiest if you put on a thin layer first and let it dry. Then you have a solid surface for your final sculpting.
Almost any of the projects on this site can be made with paper mache clay. You’ll find them all in the Art Library. There’s a link to that page at the top of the site, so you can always come back to it. That’s also where you’ll find other recipes, like the smooth air dry clay and the paper mache clay without flour.
For a fast start on a project, choose one of my mask and sculpture patterns. Any of the patterns can be used with either paper strips and paste or this paper mache clay recipe.
Have fun!
Hello,
Thank you for this amazing information. I am in Canada and DAP is popular. Do you know what ingredient is in DAP that causes the problem? In researching brands that are available to me and the ProForm brand you use, none had Ethylene Glycol (0.1–1%): Used as a preservative and anti-freeze/drying retardant. Wondering if that is the culprit.
Do you know if these brands (available to me) work:
CGC Sheetrock All Purpose Drywall Compound Ready-Mixed (Home Depot)
CGC Synco Redi-Filler Drywall Compound (ReStore)
HOME Premix Joint Compound (Home Hardware)
CertainTeed Easi-Fil All-Purpose Drywall Compound (Rona)
Thank you in advance,
Barb
Hi Barb. I believe the ingredient that causes the problem with PVA glue mixed with joint compound is boron. It’s used to prevent mold, I think. I’m not familiar with the brands you listed, but USG Sheetrock brand works well with PVA glue – but I don’t know if it’s the same company as the CGC Sheetrock brand. It might be easier to make your own glue, which works with any brand of joint compound. You can find that recipe here: https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/my-favorite-paper-mache-clay-recipe
Hi Judy,
I want to make a sculpture that needs to last a month outside. Can you recommend a method for waterproofing?
Hi Sharon. You’ll want to use the paper cement clay recipe, which holds up much better to outside weather. And then spray it with an outdoor varnish, after it completely cures.
Hello! I was wondering if i could use regular Elmer’s glue for your recipe? ??
I’m not sure what you mean. I have not had great results with their school glue, but their Glue-All works well with some brands of drywall joint compound. In my town, the only brand the stores sell that will work with any PVA glue is USG Sheetrock brand. With other brands, I recommend using the home-made glue version of paper mache clay, which you can find here: https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/my-favorite-paper-mache-clay-recipe
Okay! Thank you so much for your reply!
So excited to try this tonight! Once this is mixed is it able to be stored or do you need to use it immediately? Will the bucket I mix it in be cleanable after or does it ruin the container once it dries a bit? Love reading and watching your content!
You can clean the bowl, even if it dries out. The material will absorb the water, so you can remove it. It might take awhile, though, because it does dry really hard. This is a form of paper mache, so it shouldn’t stay wet in the bowl for too long. If you can’t use it right away, put it in the fridge or freezer to slow down the growth of mold.
Hello Jonni!
I’m making a little statue to sit on the edge of a bookcase. I made the base with crumpled paper and masking tape. The base is pretty rough because I was thinking to finish it with the paper mache clay, but after having watched a few of your videos and read some of your blog posts I’m not sure if I can start using the clay or if I should finalise the base… My question is; what is the maximum in thickness you would recommend using paper mache clay? Because the neck of my statue is very thin and I was going to thicken it with the clay but now I’m afraid that it’ll dry too slow or it’ll mold… For some parts I’d have to add 5mm of paper mache clay for example. Thanks in advance for all your wonderful videos and blog posts!
Greetings from Belgium,
Fleur
Hi Fleur. 5mm should be OK, if you put your sculpture in front of a fan so it will dry quickly. If you need more than that, put on a thin layer, let it dry, and then add more.
Hello! I hope you see this! Do we need to add salt to this? I’m seeing a lot of people say you have to add salt to prevent mold. If so, what kind of salt? Thank you!!
I never add salt. The key to prevent mold is to get your sculpture dry as fast as possible, and then keep it dry by using a good acrylic varnish. Mold can’t grow without water.
Hi!
What is the problem if your clay comes out really sticky?
What is the solution to sticky clay?
It’s hard to say, exactly, because it’s supposed to be somewhat sticky. A thin layer of it needs to stick to your armature. But if it’s much too sticky, just add more flour until you like the way it feels.
Ive made this recipe years ago & it was perfect. Tried it today and it’s SO wet & sticky. I’ve got 1 1/2 C flour in it now & Im going to try leaving it open to the air for a bit. It’s like banana bread batter?.
Maybe I left too much moisture in my paper? It was lumping up so I was afraid it would stick together in clumps & I so added a TBSP of water
Hi Shawna. It’s possible that the extra water caused the problem. That doesn’t sound like very much water, though. The drywall joint compound companies do change their formulas occasionally – what brand of joint compound and glue are you using?
Hello,
I was wondering if you know what materials I could use for heat resistant?
It would heat from light bulbs.
Hi Patricia. I only work with paper mache and other materials that contain paper. Paper burns, obviously so I wouldn’t put them in close contact with a light bulb, and I can’t give you any good advice for what you could use instead. If there’s a college near you with an engineering or architecture program, maybe one of the professors would have some suggestions for you.
Hi and thank you for all of your information!
… If I just want to make bowls or some sort of vessel..what would be the best recipe to use? I am a beginner and would love some help!
Thank you in advance
Elaine, Australia
xx
Hi Elaine. If you want to have a nice smooth finish on your bowl, the Silky Smooth Air Dry Clay would be a great choice. The recipe that uses home-made glue instead of PVA glue is great if you can’t find products that work well together. And it’s based on the air dry clay recipe, so it’s smooth, too. None of the paper mache recipes are waterproof, of course. Have fun! 🙂
Hi Elaine, I am wondering how you went with whichever recipe you chose? I am also in Australia and trying to make the clay with what is available here. I used the gyprock brand joint compound and the recipe as above, but it turned out like a thick cake batter – not thick enough to hold shape. I did add more flour but thought that was going to dry it out too much. I have saved it and am thinking of adding more toilet paper.
What brands did you use and did it work out?
Hi, I’m new to this. So what amounts/measurements/percentage of joint compound and glue and cornstarch do you use in this recipe?
Also I saw one video in which you held a small single rotater electric blender, it was a white attachment with a sold shape on the bottom? Maybe called an immersion blender? Not sure. Do you know what it was and would it work for this recipe? Thanks so much, you are so awesome!!!
Hi Kerry. All the measurements of the ingredients are listed above, right below the video. I think the machine you’re talking about is my Ninja Mini Food Chopper. I used it to chop up small amounts of paper, but the motor would probably burn out if you tried using it with the recipe on this page. And it’s also too small to hold all the ingredients. To mix this recipe I use a cheap hand-held mixer that I bought from Walmart years ago.
Thank you so much for replying!
Hello, lovely post thank you so much.
As a Brit, what is DAP?
It’s a brand of drywall joint compound. I don’t know if it’s sold in the US or not. It won’t work with PVA glue.
Hello,
We are working on a new production of the Lion King Jr. and we are expanding to create a better set. The kids want to create pride rock from folded poster board (accordian fold) and apply your silky smooth paper mache clay to make it “rock like” is this possible? Will it adhere to the poster board for this type of use?
Thank you!
Hi Judy. The ‘silky smooth’ recipe isn’t as sticky as the original paper mache clay recipe, but for a project like this you could just add less corn starch, or more glue, to make it stickier. When any water-based product like paper mache clay is put over a large flat surface, like cardboard or poster board, it will often warp as the paper mache clay dries. If the poster board is cut and taped together to make shapes of natural rocks, the warping issue might not be a problem, but the only way to find out is to try it. If they’re making big rocks, they’ll need to start applying the paper mache clay at the bottom, and let it harden before working up, because the wet paper mache clay is heavy, and could cause the poster board rocks to collapse if they start at the top. If they can lay the rocks on the floor and support the shapes from underneath, that would be even better. And remind them to use thin layer that can dry quickly, so you don’t have any problems with mold. If you can put the drying rocks in front of a fan, that would help, too.
I hope they have fun with it – it sounds like a great project! 🙂