The recipe for paper mache clay
- 1 1/4 cups damp toilet paper
- 1 cup premixed drywall joint compound in a plastic tub
- 3/4 cup Elmer’s Glue-All or any PVA glue (or Gorilla Wood Glue if you’re using DAP brand joint compound. Elmer’s Glue won’t work with DAP
- 1/2 to 1 cup white flour (adjustable)
- 2 tablespoons mineral oil (optional)
Note: If you have a kitchen scale, you can use this recipe with gram measurements.
What does it look like when it’s dry?
If you’d like to see what your sculpture might look like when you use this recipe, I finished many of my sculpture and mask patterns with paper mache clay, or with a combination of this recipe and traditional paper strips and paste.
Yes, I do sometimes use both. The clay doesn’t like covering the sharp edges of ears, and it’s easier to wind narrow strips of paper and paste around long thin shapes, like the wire used for bird legs or tiny animal sculptures.
For everything else, I use paper mache clay or one of the variations of this recipe.
Why I Created the Recipe for Paper Mache Clay:
Over ten years ago I became frustrated with traditional paper strips and paste. I couldn’t get fine details, like I could when sculpting with real clay. It took too much time to add all those layers of paper mache. And it was messy.
But I wanted to sculpt, and paper mache was the only affordable option.
That’s why I created this original (and still my favorite) recipe for paper mache clay.
- It’s affordable.
- It uses common ingredients that you can find at your local DIY store or Walmart.
- And it helps you create beautiful sculptures that you can be proud of. This is not the kind of paper mache you made back in grade school!
I put this recipe for paper mache clay on this blog and on YouTube about ten years ago. It has now been used by millions of people around the world, and I get emails and comments every day from people who tell me they love it!
How do you use it?
You use a knife to apply paper mache clay in a really thin layer over your armature, almost like frosting a cake. You only need a very thin layer, because it dries hard and strong, even with as little as 1/8″ applied to your sculpture.
How long will it last?
Once the material is completely dry, painted and sealed, it will last for years.
When it’s still in the bowl, it will last several days if you cover it tightly to keep it from drying out. Put it in the fridge if you can’t use it again for a week or two, because the organic materials in the recipe can attract mold while it’s still wet. If you want it to last longer, put it in the freezer, and it will last indefinitely.
Can you sand it?
Yes, but I almost never do. Paper mache clay dries really hard, and sanding it is a pain in the rear. Plus, you need to wear a mask, because you don’t want the fine powder in your lungs.
And you probably want to do it outside, because that fine dust will go all over your house.
What do I do instead? I use drywall joint compound, which I always have on hand because it’s one of the main ingredients of the recipe. To see exactly how I do it, watch my video that shows you how to make paper mache smooth without sanding.
(And yes, it works with traditional paper strips and paste, too.)
When I really have to sand my paper clay I use my little electric sander.
Are there other options?
Yes, there are two alternative recipes, and many people actually prefer them. Go ahead and try them all, and see which one you like best.
- If you like to create fine details, the way you might if you were using real clay or polymer clay, try the silky-smooth air dry clay recipe. It uses the same ingredients, plus corn starch, but there’s less paper in the mix so it’s great for detailed textures and details. Many readers have also used it in small silicone molds for jewelry, and they say it works well. I haven’t tried that yet, myself, so do some experiments to see if it works for you.
- If you need a recipe that can be used for outdoor sculptures, check out the paper cement clay recipe. It’s only been tested for a little over a year so far, so consider it experimental – but many people have had very good luck with it.
How to make paper mache clay:
You’ll need several large bowls, some measuring cups, a spoon and an electric mixer.
The supplies you need for paper mache clay are:
Elmer’s Glue-All, or any PVA glue. Most white glue will work. The Clear Glue from the Elmer’s company also works.
Drywall joint compound – any brand except DAP. That brand doesn’t work because it turns into rubber when mixed with glue.
I buy my joint compound at Walmart. It works great for this recipe, and it’s much less expensive than most brands.
If you aren’t sure what joint compound is called in your country, click here.
Note: There is a warning on the joint compound container that says you should wear a mask when you sand it because it contains silica. Silica is a very hard mineral (most sand is made out of silica) and you don’t want the fine powder in your lungs. I never sand paper mache clay myself, but if you do, be sure to wear a mask. (You should wear a mask when you sand anything!)
To make your paper mache clay smooth without sanding, watch this video.
White flour. The flour thickens the paper mache by soaking up the water. If you can’t use the flour for any reason, you’ll want to use this variation of the paper mache clay recipe instead.
Toilet paper. Any brand will work, so buy the cheapest brand you can find.
Some people use recycled paper instead. In fact, ever since the toilet paper shortage in early 2020, more and more people have made the recipe with old newspapers or the brown paper that Amazon.com uses inside it’s cartons. The texture of the final mix may be slightly different, but recycled paper works just fine. To see a video about using recycled paper in paper mache clay, click here.
Mineral oil (baby oil) or linseed oil – this is totally optional. The oil changes the ‘feel’ of the paper mache clay while you’re working with it, but the recipe works just fine without it. Don’t use boiled linseed oil if children will be helping you with your sculpture, because it contains chemicals.
More Lion King mask patterns for paper mache:
Step 1: Soak and measure your paper.
The first thing we need to do is get our paper ready. We want about a cup and a quarter of wet paper. You can use any cup to measure with – it doesn’t have to be exact.
Put the paper in hot water to get it wet, and press it down into a measuring cup until you have about a cup and a quarter of wet paper. Then put it back in the hot water. You want all the paper fibers to be separated. Just swirl the paper around with your fingers and the toilet paper will completely fall apart.
Step 2: Press out the water.
You want to press most of the water out of the paper, but you have to be really careful that you don’t press out too much.
If you press out so much of the water that it’s almost dry, it won’t fall apart when you run your mixer. You’ll end up with big globs and bumpy lumps in your paper mache clay.
So go ahead and test it in your hand. Can you push it around and have it come apart, even though most of the water has been pressed out? Then you’re good to go.
Step 3: Add joint compound and glue to the paper mache clay mixture.
Now you can add the drywall joint compound and glue, and start mixing.
What is drywall joint compound? This product is made for the construction industry when they build interior walls. The joint compound is used to cover the edges between two sheets of drywall (also called gypsum board, plaster board and sheet rock). You’ll find it in the paint department at Walmart, or in any DIY store.
If you live in a country where they don’t make flat walls out of plasterboard or drywall, you won’t be able to find drywall joint compound in your stores.
A lot of people ask me, “Can you make paper mache clay without drywall joint compound?” No, you can’t – this recipe requires the joint compound.
If you can’t find the joint compound in your country or if you don’t want to use it, this site has projects that use the traditional paper mache mixture of softened paper and paste.
Mix your paper, joint compound and glue for several minutes. You want the mixer to tear all of the paper fibers apart so it’ll be nice and smooth.
Step 4: Add the flour.
You’re going to use the white flour to thicken the paper mache clay. The flour soaks up the excess water in the mixture, and makes it easier to spread the paper mache or create sculpted details.
The amount of flour you need depends on how you want to use your paper mache clay, and how much water was left in the paper. Just keep adding more until you get the consistency you want.
For instance, if you want a really thin layer like I use when I’m covering my mask patterns, or when I want to create a hard solid surface with my first layer, I’ll use a small amount of flour to make a really thin mixture of the paper mache clay.
But when I want to add texture, or if I want to actually sculpt with the paper mache clay like I did with my snowy owl, then I’ll add more flour.
A note about the beaters: I add 1/2 cup of flour to start with, using the standard beaters. When I need more flour, I’ll switch to the dough hooks.
My mixer didn’t come with the dough hooks, like this one does, but I use some old ones I have from another mixer, and they fit.
If you don’t have the bread-mixing beaters, the paper mache clay has a tendency to crawl up the standard beaters. The mixture will also become very heavy, and could burn out the motor in a small mixer if you use the standard beaters.
Another option is to mix the flour in by hand.
An alternative to a kitchen mixer: If you need to mix up a lot of the paper mache at one time, perhaps for a workshop or a very large project, you can use a paint mixer attachment for an electric drill instead of a of a kitchen mixer, and a plastic pail instead of a bowl.
Step 5: Apply your paper mache clay to your armature.
Use a knife to spread a thin layer of paper mache clay over your armature. If you’ll be using the paper mache clay to add finer details, it’s easiest if you put on a thin layer first and let it dry. Then you have a solid surface for your final sculpting.
Almost any of the projects on this site can be made with paper mache clay. You’ll find them all in the Art Library. There’s a link to that page at the top of the site, so you can always come back to it. That’s also where you’ll find other recipes, like the smooth air dry clay and the paper mache clay without flour.
For a fast start on a project, choose one of my mask and sculpture patterns. Any of the patterns can be used with either paper strips and paste or this paper mache clay recipe.
Have fun!
Do you have to use the joint compound to make the clay? I don’t have any on hand but have tons of spackle. Will that work as a substitute? Was wondering if you had done that particular experiment already. Thanks!
I have not used spackle. I know it’s similar in composition to joint compound, but I don’t know how it will react with the glue. I suspect you will know shortly, and we would love to hear how it turns out!
I ended up using a patching plaster (gypsum) from a dry mix instead of the spackle. This answers your UK problem. Just follow the directions on the package to mix with water and then your directions. My finished product looks just like your picture and felt just like Sculpey clay (if you have ever used that product). I’m going to get joint compound after the snow clears and make more to see the difference and check if I have a preference.
Thanks, Jennifer. It sounds like your clay is a bit firmer than the one that I get when I use joint compound. Do you like the way it works, when using it on your sculpture? I hope you’ll let us know how your project turns out.
Did you ever use the spackle? I would love to know how the formula work out. I am hoping you got a firmer clay because that is the texture I love to work with. Thanks
I haven’t experimented with it myself yet. But you can buy spackle in rather small containers, so it shouldn’t be expensive to give it a try. My huge garden project is hogging all my time right now, so I’ll let you all do the research – but please let us know if it works.
Jonni
I am wondering whether the linseed oil you use is boiled or raw. They have both types at my local hardware store and I’m not sure which one to use.
Jacquie
The kind I use is boiled linseed oil, but only because it’s the only kind our small hardware store carries. The raw linseed oil should work just fine, but I haven’t tried it.
Hi Jonni,
This morning I got the sudden urge to make paper mache bangles (thick, chunky bracelets). After searching google all day with no luck, I stumbled upon your amazing detailed and informative site. It has inspired me to attempt other sculptures and decorations as well. I am also very excited about your “paper mache clay” and I plan to use it instead of the conventional paper mache. Your creations are gorgeous, and your advice is the greatest. I just have one question, can i used duct tape or electrical tape instead of masking tape? Thank you so much, and I can’t wait to get started!
I have not used other kinds of tape, but it should work. If you try it, please let us know how it turns out!
I am so excited. Can’t wait to make this. Starting fresh tomorrow morning.. Thank you so much. Love to try new recipes …Will post pic when I make my bunnies…Sounds like an easy and cheap recipe for PM clay but looks like and seems like its something I am interested in. Have you use this recipe in any molds??
I have tried the recipe in molds, and it tends to trap air underneath so it doesn’t come out with a smooth surface and details get lost. If you experiment, let us know how it turns out.
My 4th grader is doing a school project that requires construction of an adobe and brick building. A friend recommended paper mache compound to create the look over heavy cardboard. Do you think the clay or traditional paste would work best? And what could be added to give the structure a greyish brown color?
Thank you!
Hi Jennifer. The clay recipe would be easiest, because you’d just build cardboard buildings and then “plaster” them with the clay. When they dry hard, they would look very much like adobe. You can find iron oxide and other natural pigments at the hardware store, sold as cement colorants. Or you could color the clay with acrylic or tempera paints.
However, the ingredients in the clay and the dried pigments from the hardware store should not be eaten, so your students must all treat the materials with respect. As their teacher, do you think they’re old enough to use art materials that are not non-toxic? I don’t spend much time around kids, so I could use some advice about this particular safety issue. But, as long as the kids know you can’t eat the clay even though it looks like cookie dough, they should be fine.
Thank you for sharing this! I Love your work!
You’re welcome, Julie. I’m glad you enjoy the site.
Do you form up your creation like normal – with the newspaper and masking tape and then just layer this on the outside?
Yes, exactly! I’ll try to put together a short video soon to explain this more clearly. Basically, the clay replaces the paper strips and paste.
Hi,
I’m reading your suggestions in UK and I’m wondering what
“Jointing Compound” is? What would it normally be used for?
Is it a powder? paste? liquid?
Please advise.
Thank you,
Sally
I think this product is called Joint Filler in the UK. A reader is now experimenting with joint filler that she purchased in your country, and has promised to let me know how it turns out. My only concern is that the product available in my local Oregon hardware store contains Calcium Carbonate, while the product specs I found for a UK product contained another form of calcium called gypsum. These are very similar, but I don’t know if it will react the same way with the glue and form a nice smooth clay. If you (or anybody) tries joint filler with this recipe, please let me know how it turns out. It should be smooth, and should not form lumps.
Note to anyone who lives in any country other than the US — If you figure out what joint compound is called in your country, please let us all know!
Oh – and to finish answering your question, the product comes in a plastic tub, and looks a bit like plaster than has already been mixed with water. So-not a paste, exactly, and not a powder or liquid, either…
In Germany joint compound is called Fugenmasse
Thank you so much, Eunice! In a few days I’ll try to compile all the international terms that readers have sent in. This is so useful.
Hello Jonni, thanks so much for your wonderful review of my book “Papier Mache Design”. I’ve just looked at your ‘papier mache clay’ and am impressed! I will be using it as well for certain projects I will have on the go soon, thank you! I haven’t read through all the comments here on this page yet, but I’m looking forward to what people have to say about your recipe. I’m sure they are having a lot of fun with it!
Thanks for picking up my book and letting the rest of the world out there know what lies between the pages.
Cheers,
Monique Robert
Hi- I was wondering about the dry time. I realize different sized sculptures would have different times, but do you have a rough guideline? ( If it was already mentioned, I missed it) And thanks for this recipe, my son has a project for school and didn’t seem keen about it until we found your clay site. -Thanks, Heidi
Hello, Heidi. I haven’t done any real scientific studies, but a thin layer — 1/8 to 1/4″ thick, should dry in two days if you put it in a warm spot. It will feel dry on the outside before it’s fully cured on the inside, so give it plenty of time. It will dry fastest if you put it over a heat register — but be sure you don”t put it too close to an electric heater because of the fire danger. When you push on any part of the sculpture there should be no “give” at all. If you build up extra clay for details, those areas may take longer to dry.
You also need to consider the fact that you need to stop applying the clay when you no longer have a dry spot to hang on to. Then you need to put the piece in a warm spot until the clay hardens enough, then finish covering the rest of the piece. You can usually hold the clay safely long before it’s completely dry,
If you add a very thin second layer, in order to add a texture, for instance, the second layer will usually dry faster than the first layer did.
Hope this helps, and that your son enjoys his project. You didn’t mention his age, so I’ll just remind you the clay is not edible. 🙂 And I also hope you’ll let us see his sculpture when it’s done.
Hello jonni
Before finding your videos I wanted to try making clay. The first video I seen didn’t say what kind or brand of joint compound. So my issue is I bought DAP wall board joint compound. So now that I seen your videos I see I can’t use it ? Or is there a way I can use it.
Hi Jessica. Was that first video one that I made? If so, I need to go back and add the DAP info to the description.
As for DAP, some of it works and some doesn’t. I think they have more than one manufacturing plant, and they may use slightly different formulas. Since you already have some on hand, there’s an easy way to test it. Mix about a tablespoon of your Elmer’s Glue All with a tablespoon of your joint compound. If it isn’t going to work you’ll find out quickly, because it will get rubbery and you wouldn’t be able to spread it. If it does work, it should have a texture like mayonnaise. I hope the container you bought is one of the good ones. If not, the best place to find non-DAP joint compound is often at WalMart in their paint department.
Hi! I was wondering, do you use the traditional method as a base? Do you use paper mache for the body, and just use the clay for fine details, or do you use the clay for an entire project?
I use a crumpled-paper and masking tape form under the clay. The paper mache clay is very strong, so no paper strips and paste are needed. See the frog and butterfly posts show how this is done. I hope to have more tutorials up soon, but my book project is keeping me busy at the moment.
thank you so much for your generous sharing of info and artist’s sites.
i would like to know if i can use old telephone book paper for your paper clay recipe?
thanks, elizabeth
Hi Elizabeth. I have not tried any paper except toilet paper. The toilet paper is especially engineered to disintigrate as soon as it gets wet, so it won’t clog the sewer lines. Telephone book paper is probably designed to hold up to some abuse. You would probably need to soak it overnight or boil it, like traditional paper mache pulp recipes require, and even then I doubt you could get it very smooth.
Even though you won’t get recycling brownie points if you use a roll of toilet paper, you can still claim your sculptures are made partially from recycled paper if you use old newspapers (or telephone book paper) for the inside forms. And one roll of toilet paper will make a quart of clay, which is enough to cover a 12″ long animal sculpture with a layer 1/8″ thick. So it really isn’t very expensive.
All that said, if you do some experimenting with other types of paper, please let us know how it turns out.
thanks, jonni, for the quick reply.
i am heading to the store now to get the rest of my supplies for your clay and
i’m also going to experiment with the telephone book paper and will let you know the results.
tks, elizabeth
Hi Jonni..thank you so much for the prompt answer to my question and the great site which gives us an affordable way to stave off cabin fever!
Hi..I was trying get the instructions on how to make the paper mache clay recipe but I’m on dial-up, high speed isn’t avalailable in my area, and it wouldn’t download. It timed out. would it be possible to post brief written instructions? Thank you so much
Hi Alice. I should have thought of that. I’ll post a printed version of the instructions below the video so everyone can see it. Thanks for the heads-up.
Hi, I have been following your site for some time now and wanted to thank you for inroducing me to a media which actually produces the results I envision! Over the years I have tried many different forms of art and craft and none have ever really turned out how I had hoped until I found your site! I have finally found an inexpensive way to sculpt in my own living room!
Your paper clay recipe; can you tell me what the Linseed oil is for and if it is a vital or optional part of the recipe?
Thanks again,
Jo
Hi Jo. I’m glad you like the site. The first time I read your comment I thought you said you had found a way to “sculpt your own living room.” I have an excuse, other than being dyslexic — I recently ran across a French website created by someone who really does just that. He calls his method of making papier mache furniture the “Schmulb” method. Check it out.
OK – back to what you were really talking about…
No, you don’t have to use the linseed oil, but I do suggest that you try it at least once. It does make the clay a little easier to work with, and it changes the texture or “feel” of the clay a little. You can get a tiny bottle at the art store, or buy the less expensive kind from the hardware store. A pint will last a long time. And, like all the ingredients in the clay recipe, you want to keep the container out of reach of children.
Jonni, Love this idea! I am a middle school art teacher 6-8 grade, and would like to try this with my 8th grade students (ages 12-13). I noticed you recommend keeping this material out of the reach of children. Any concerns for this age group? Thanks so much!
Hi Deborah. Your kids should be old enough to know that they aren’t supposed to eat their art supplies. That’s the only reason why I warn against using the clay with small kids. The clay looks a bit like cookie dough when it’s still in the bowl, and some younger kids might be tempted to taste. At the age of your students, they should be well over that phase.
Enjoy!
Hello,
We are working on a full-sized scaled sculpture of the caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland. We are making the structure out of chicken wire. I was wondering if the clay would mesh well and stick to the chicken wire. We may just do a few layers of the regular paper mache recipe then use the clay over the paper for the molded look. I liked your use of the carpenter’s glue with tint after sanding the paper. Any ideas or suggestions you would like to share? Thank you!
What a great project! The holes in chicken wire would be too large for the clay, but 1/4″ hardware cloth would work. So would your idea of putting on at least one layer of paper strips and paste, to give the clay something to hold on to. Lately I’ve been using joint compound thinned with Elmer’s Glue-All and a bit of acrylic paint for a home-made gesso in place of the colored glue, but if you’re looking for a slicker look, the tinted glue is nice. Also, if this is a project you’re doing with kids, remember that the paper mache clay is not edible. (I know they wouldn’t eat it, of course, but it does look a little like cookie dough…)
I sure hope you’ll take some photos as you build your caterpillar, and share them with us.
Hi, Found your website today and it is fascinating and very informative! I was beginning to wonder if there was a papier maché website that took the craft seriously, after trawling through horrible twee objects and ‘projects to get you started’ on some other sites. However, I do have a fairly crucial question for you. I assume you are in the States. I am in France, with fairly easy access to UK products, and I have never heard of Elmer’s Glue-All. Please can you tell me the technical details – what is the base – is it PVA or what? so that I can find the equivalent here or in the UK? Then I can let you know what it’s called over here, in case anyone else asks.
I used to do a fair amount of papier maché years ago, and decided to start again this year (one of my New Year Resolutions!)
I love the sound of the clay recipe, and it would be ideal for the sort of projects I have in mind.
Many thanks for such a good website.
Mags
Hi Mags. Yes. Elmers Glue-All is a PVA glue, as I know (from one of your other comments) you’ve already discovered. But not all PVA glues act the same, so I suggest that you buy a small bottle of glue that you find in your local store, and see what happens. At my local WalMart, the “right” glue for the clay is found in the children”s craft section (and by the gallon at the hardware store).
I definitely hope you’ll let us know which brand works there in France. And if anyone else lives in a country other than the US, please chime in and tell us which glue works best. Also, do they call joint compound “joint compound” in other countries? Also, when you’re done with your first project, please share it with us!
Oh – one more thing… If you’re looking for artists who take papier mache seriously, check out Monique Robert’s sculptures. I don’t know how she makes them, but I just ordered her book so I should find out soon.
Wow, this is really neat, I will be trying this out. I am just beginning Dan the paper mache man’s lessons, and this stuff should be amazing for adding detail.
How long does it remain usable, and how do you store it (if possible)
Greg
I agree — Dan’s latest book has some really good ideas for creating forms and shapes, which can be used with any style, not just monsters. It would be fun to see what Dan would do with this stuff. I’m sure it would be imaginative.
I’ve kept the clay in a covered plastic container for up to a week, and it’s still easy to spread and model. As I mentioned in the video, the clay is not edible — and that seems to apply to fungi as well as people. I have not seen any mold appear on the clay, no matter how long it’s kept in the container, and it doesn’t sour the way flour paste does in a day or two. But still, I don’t suggest making up more than one quart (one recipe) at a time. That way you always have some fresh clay for your work.
Can I substitute carpenter’s glue for the Elmer white glue?
I have a lot of it lying around…
Thank you for the recipe!
Kat, I’m very glad you asked that! So far, I’ve experimented with three different glues. Two worked, and one was a miserable failure.
Elmer’s Glue-All is the glue I use most of the time, and it works really well.
Titebond II, a weatherproof premium wood glue, is also excellent, and gives a nice smooth feel to the clay, although it’s yellow instead of white. (I was hoping it would make the clay waterproof, but it doesn’t). Since Elmer’s Glue-All is a lot less expensive, I don’t see a strong reason to use Titebond II unless you already have some in your garage.
Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Glue did not work. The clay isn’t smooth and creamy, and it sort of “curdles.” The glue doesn’t seem to mix at all with the small amount of water that’s left in the toilet paper, and it bonds with the joint compound in an odd way. Don’t try it — I already did, and I know you won’t be happy with the result.
I was surprised to discover that Elmer’s carpenters glue doesn’t work well (and disappointed — I bought a gallon of the stuff). Since the carpenter’s glue is based on polyvinyl acetate, just like the other two glues mentioned, I thought it would work as well. At my age I should know better than make assumptions.
All that said, if you have some other brands of glue hanging around and you’d like to experiment with them, go ahead and give them a try. And be sure to let us all know how your clay turns out. But before doing that, make up at least one batch with the Elmer’s Glue-All (you only need 6 fl oz for a quart of clay) so you’ll know what the clay is “supposed” to be like.
VERY nice.. I will use this to construct an armor. Of course, I will have to apply a layer of sealant. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
If you provide your email in your tips, I will happily deliver pictures of my process.
Thanks!
JR
PS.. really.. tHANKS!
Hi Johnny. I’d love to see your project, including photos taken to show how your armor is made from start to finish. You can use the email shown on my contact page. Please edit your photos into a small size if you’d like me to share them in a blog post.
If you intend to take your finished creation outside in the rain you’ll need to use marine (spar) varnish on the outside. If you don’t intend to let it get wet, a water-based Verathane or poylurethane should work just fine, or stick with the matte acrylic varnish from the art store.
I have used your recipe to make a fantastic head and shoulder bust of a woman. But doesn’t the linseed oil in the recipe eventually break down the toilet paper over time? Please reply as I would continue using your recipe but not sure if I should.