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No more searching for the right joint compound for paper mache clay!
This new recipe for paper mache clay doesn’t use PVA glue, so you can use any brand of pre-mixed drywall joint compound.
The original idea for using “home-made glue” in paper mache clay came from Rich, “The Ghoulish Cop.” Thanks, Rich!
I simplified Rich’s recipe so it’s now much easier. It only takes a few minutes to make in your kitchen, and it uses inexpensive ingredients that you probably already have on hand.
Why bother to make your own glue?
It’s starting to get really hard to find drywall joint compound brands that will work with the PVA glue that’s used in my original paper mache clay recipe. I’m really excited about this new recipe – I like it even better than the original recipe that I’ve been using for years. If you try it, please let us know what you think of it in the comment section below.
No-Glue Recipe for Paper Mache Clay
For the DIY glue/paste:
In a small saucepan, mix:
- 1/2 cup cold water
- 2 tablespoons white flour
Whisk together thoroughly to remove any lumps. Then add:
- 1 teaspoon corn starch
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 capful (about a teaspoon) of white vinegar.
Whisk again until well mixed. Put the pan on a burner set to Medium to Medium-High heat, and stir constantly until the mixture thickens. Then stir another minute until you start to see bubbles and the mixture comes together.
Put the mixture into a heat-proof container and allow to cool.
For the paper mache clay:
In a medium size bowl, mix:
- 1/2 cup wet toilet paper (24 grams dry, 110 grams wet – see video above)
- 1/2 cup pre-mixed drywall joint compound, any brand
- All of the ‘glue’ you made previously
When the paper has mixed in completely and there are no lumps, add:
- 1/2 cup corn starch, divided
Put about half of the corn starch into the bowl, and mix well. Then add the rest. If the paper mache clay starts to get too stiff for the motor on your mixer, or if it tries to ride up the beaters, you can finish mixing by hand with a spoon.
To make the paper mache clay the consistency you like, add:
- More corn starch, a little at a time.
When the mixture is too stiff to mix with a spoon, turn it onto a work table and knead by hand. When it’s very close to the way you want it, add:
- 1 capful (about 1 teaspoon) of mineral oil, baby oil, or linseed oil
Knead the clay some more to mix in the oil. Add more corn starch if needed.
Your new paper mache clay is now ready to use. Keep it in a plastic bag to keep it from drying out. If you can’t use it within a few days, store it in the refrigerator. You can use your new paper mache clay for almost any pattern or project on this site.
If you try this new recipe, be sure to let us know what you think of it. 🙂
Hello Jonni,
I’ve been using this recipe for my Halloween mask and I’m really liking it so far! Unfortunately, the clay I haven’t used yet has developed some pink spots on it, which I think is bacteria or some kind of mold. Because my house has been so cold recently, I thought I didn’t need to put it in the fridge since I only made it this past Saturday. But I guess I should have anyways!
What I’m wondering is whether picking off the pink spots and using the remainder would be okay, or whether I should just throw out the leftover clay and make another batch? My project is very large, so I would have to make another batch at some point anyways. But it’ll be kind of sad to throw out, since there’s a decent amount left… Then again, I wouldn’t want to risk my mask getting moldy after working so hard on it! I would really love to hear your advice!
Hi Veronica. I’ve never seen pink mold, but if it’s growing larger, and if you didn’t use any pink-colored paper in the mix, then it must be mold. We’ve been told that adding bleach to stop the growth of mold will make the paper mache clay brittle and dry. They recommended adding a few drops of tea tree oil, but most of us don’t have any of that on hand. I would probably start over with a new batch, and keep any left-over material in the fridge or freezer. I know that’s not the answer you wanted, but it’s best to play it safe.
I loved your videos! And all your animals! Do you use acrylic paint on your pieces? Do you apply a sealer between the paper mache and your paint? If so, what tulype do you use? I’m so excited to try this recipe!!
Julie
Hi Bradley. I normally use an acrylic gesso first, to give me a nice white ground to paint on. Then I use artist’s or craft acrylic paint, and seal it with a clear spray or brush-on varnish. Lately I’ve been using Rust-Oleum clear matte spray enamel, but any good varnish will work just fine. Have fun! 🙂
Hi Jonni!
Thanks for your delightful videos and website. I’ve done traditional paper mache for years, but this is my first time using your recipe and technique. So far it’s been smooth sailing and I wish I had tried it earlier!
I am working on a project using your Paper Cement Clay. Have you used this homemade glue in that recipe as a substitute for PVA glue? I’m wondering if it will behave the same way.
Thanks!
Hi Esther. I have not tried that, but it sounds like an interesting experiment. I don’t have time to try it right now. If you decide to experiment, be sure to let us know if it works. And be sure to try it on something small, just in case it doesn’t work. 🙂
Thank you so much for this recipe! I’ve made it twice now, and both times I’m using way more cornstarch to get things to set up more like clay vs. a thick buttercream icing texture. Currently I’m staring at the second batch in icing form and my now empty container of cornstarch. Hahah That’s on me, but I’m wondering what I’m doing wrong? I’m assuming that my TP is still too wet when I’m adding the other things in?
I did apply the first batch to my project, and it dried beautifully! I’m excited to use this more once I can figure the ratios out properly.
Thank you!
The water in the TP would definitely be a good place to start. Every brand of paper is different, and products change all the time. Try reducing the water quite a lot – but not enough to turn the paper into a wet brick – and try again. You might want to make a small batch, just to see it helps. Let us know what you find out in your experiment! 🙂
I am wondering if it has to be wheat flour? I am a Celiac Sprue and that means I have a genetic intolerance to gluten, which is in wheat flour.
Do you have any insight into uso g a non-gluten flour?
I don’t think corn starch has gluten, but you’d want to check to make sure. If you use it instead of flour, add just a little at a time. It absorbs more water that wheat flour, but it does it slowly.
Hey Jonni – could you also do this recipe with gram measurements like you did with the last one, please – without us having to watch a vid to see if the gram measurements are in there, and writing them down etc. ?
I’ll try to remember to do that the next time I use it. I’m in the middle of a major home remodel at the moment, so it won’t be done for awhile.
Im new to your videos, Im trying the USG Sheetrock, all purpose, they had it in a 4.5 gallon bucket. My mix turns rubbery when adding damp paper fibers. Is this common? Do i need to just keep trying till i get it right?
I’ve never seen this happen, especially if you’re using the home-made glue. What kind of paper are you using? Is it toilet paper, or something stiffer?
Hi Jonni. Love everything you create! Can you use the paste recipe with newspaper , cardboard etc??
It should work, but it isn’t going to be as smooth, and it will take a lot longer to make. Toilet paper is manufactured to immediately fall apart when it gets wet. Cardboard is made to stay as strong as possible, even if it gets wet. Newspaper falls apart into fibers, but only after soaking for a long time. So, the answer is yes, you can use them, but be prepared to soak the paper or cardboard for much longer, and mix a lot longer, too. If the fibers aren’t coming apart, even after a long soak, it might help to use a paint mixer attachment on a strong electric drill.
I’m excited to try this but don’t have any mineral oil lying around. It’s the only ingredient I don’t have on hand. Is it necessary for this to work correctly?
No, you don’t need the oil. The recipe will work just fine. Have fun! 🙂
What are you using for armatures? I use foil a lot but have found that it makes the clay take much longer to dry than when I was using it to sculpt onto shoes. I was considering popsicle sticks.
I use crumpled foil or paper. I have a video that shows my basic process. You can see it here.
is it possible to mix and match your new paper mache clay recipe on top of existing paper mache? should i perhaps not use mineral oil?
I haven’t tried it, but it should work, both with and without the oil. But try it on a small place first, and let it dry, to make sure it sticks.
I put this over paper mache all the time.
Just finished making the recipe, it didn’t come out smooth like yours, any suggestions as to what I need to do to make it smooth?
Thanks
Does it seem like the paper fibers are sticking together in clumps? If that happens, you can usually make it smoother by mixing longer. Or try smoothing the surface after the paper mache is applied with the flat side of a lightly damp knife.
Thanks for your help, next time I will mix it longer.
I found that using my hand mixer to blend the paper into a little extra water before putting everything else in, helps get it smother. It also makes it so that I don’t need a dedicated mixer. I dump some of the extra water and I just manually mix the rest in.
Good tip. 🙂
Had the same problem, much sanding, even though I pulverized the paper. Mixture spent more time on side of bowl than on the bottom when beating. Think a smaller bowl and larger volume of mixture might help. I would like to get it to the consistency of ceramic or Apoxie clay.
I’m curious if anyone who used the formula and added baby oil then had any problem having acrylic paint sticking to the surface?
Good question, Mike. I’ve never had that problem, but if anyone else has, please let us all know.
I’ve used Joni’s recipes with baby oil, even added a little more than necessary sometimes, and never had and issue with acrylic paint sticking.
Hey Joni!
I think that I’ve made an error in some way. I made this mixture last night and it’s still not dry yet – is there any way you know of to accelerate the drying process?
LOVE your work
Thanks!
Nat
Hi Nat. I don’t think you’ve made any errors. The drying time depends on how thickly the layer of paper mache clay has been applied to the armature, the amount of moisture in the air, the temperature and whether or not the air is moving. I try to give my pieces at least two days to dry all the way through. Moving air really helps, so try putting your sculpture in front of a fan.
That’s great! Thank you. (P.S. I’m making an elephant head too!!)
Dear Jonni, thank you for this recipe, i just finished making it 🙂
I would like to ask you if you have any suggestions on what to use between this and a plaster surface as a release-agent if i would like to take the papaerclay object off after it dried on the plaster surface?
I am preparing a mask making class for students and hoping to incorporate this recipe.
Thanks and kind wishes
Hi Ilona. The best way to make sure the paper mache won’t stick to the plaster is to put a piece of thin plastic over the original. Kitchen plastic wrap will work, and you can get it to lay flat by misting the original piece with water. I’ve never tried using anything else, because paper mache will stick to plastic, and any release will leave an oily residue on the inside of the mask. The paper mache clay will dry very hard, so make sure your original has no undercuts at all. Any undercut will make it impossible to remove the dried paper mache clay. I hope you and your students have fun with your project! 🙂
Dear Jonni, thanks a lot for your swift reply. I’ll try to water the plastic wrap beforehand and see how it goes. Curious to try the clay i made based on your recipe today, its in the fridge:)
Best,
Ilona
Hi, I am so excited to try this recipe! I will be sculpting on a lamp.
The base is made out of poly resin. It gas minimal texture but it soes have slight woodgrain. Can I add this directly to the ball or do you think I need a different base on the lamp first? Do you think your other recipes would work well?
I think you’ll need to test it. You might have problems with cracking, because any water-based material, like paper mache clay, will shrink as it dries, and your lamp base is hard so it won’t shrink. When the PM clay cracks, it may fall off, so do a test first to see if it will work.
I am excited to give this a try this summer in my classroom as an enrichment activity. Have you tried making this for 15 students at a time?
I am thinking students could do a 3-D plaque rather than a sculpture.
Your feedback is most appreciated.
Hi Bee. I don’t work with children, so I don’t have any good advice for you. The recipe is a replacement for paper strips and paste, and it needs to be applied in a thin layer over an armature. Most of the shapes should be in the armature, and the paper mache clay will make it into a permanent sculpture. I recommend trying it at home first, so you can see how it works. That will let you know if it is a good material for your students. Have fun! 🙂
I am confused about what type of joint compound to use. When I purchase drywall joint compound, it’s a light airy mixture and what you are using in the video looks somewhat heavy and dense. I know you don’t want to endorse a specific brand, but can you offer a few specific examples of the type of joint compound you are using?
I will definitely be experimenting with this recipe for some animal sculptures. Do you think it is suitable for large scale? I am planning to build a large tree for a parade float (something like 7′ tall and 36″ diameter trunk), and trying to decide which recipe to use.
Hi Jennifer. If your joint compound is in a tub, and it’s designed for drywall joints (not pipes) it should work in this recipe that doesn’t use Elmer’s glue. I’ve never seen airy joint compound myself, so you may have different brands available where you live. My personal favorite is the USG Sheetrock brand, but even that brand comes in a variety of different products that are all slightly different. I just get the ‘All Purpose’ one, when I can find it. After you do your own experiment, I hope you’ll let us know how it turned out. 🙂
Hi Jonni
I am in South Africa and wish to attempt it but am not sure what is the best jointing compound to use. Could you please advise of possible options. Really looking forward to attempting this
Hi Elfrieda. I don’t live in South Africa, so I can’t make a product recommendation. Ask the fellows at your local DIY store for the product that’s used to fill the cracks between sheets of plasterboard. It looks like a lot of different brands are available. It may be called ‘jointing and skimming compound’ there. If you use the recipe on this page, which does not use Elmer’s Glue-All, any brand of joint compound should work.
Hi Jonni
In the UK, they call it skim and finish.
Cheers
Karen