Thanks for Your Feedback – I Think We Have A Winner!

 

Thanks to everyone who commented and left suggestions on my last post. I played around with the paper mache clay recipe a bit more, and I really like the result. It’s now smoother, it isn’t sticky, and it holds incredible detail. It’s also less expensive to make, which is always a plus. The one drawback is that it isn’t quite as strong – but I still think it’s an improvement over the original version.

To keep things from getting too confusing, I put the latest video and the new version of the recipe on the previous post.

On another note, I have a bit more information that I can now share with you about the fundraiser I’ve been invited to participate in. I told you about it, very briefly, when I showed you the little mini-mask I made of a puppy who came to visit, uninvited. That was a practice mask, to see what it would be like to do a portrait of someone’s pet. Now I can tell you more about the event itself:

There will be an informal online auction to help a group called the Global Sighthound Rescue. They do wonderful work rescuing greyhounds and other sighthound breeds who are in dire need of help. Seven artists have joined the effort, so there will be seven “winners” at the end of the fundraising event. At the end of the auction each of the seven artists will produce a portrait of “their” winner’s favorite pet.

I hope you’ll click on that link above and go check out the work that’s being offered for this event. These folks do incredible work, and it’s rather humbling to be included among this group. (By the way, if you decide to bid on a mask from me, I won’t mind at all if your “pet” happens to be a baby orangutan or a rhino – as long as it will look fetching as a small display mask, like the one I’ll be making for the event. πŸ™‚ )

I know you’ll want to learn more about this organization and the dogs they help. Click here to go to their website. If you click on the names of the adopted sighthounds in the right-hand column, you can read their stories.

Now, please go check out the latest version of the paper mache clay recipe. Since so many people have helped with this new version, I think we need to come up with a new name for it. Steve Sack started us calling the original Jonni Clay, but that won’t work any more. I thought about calling it simply “ultimate paper mache,” after the title of this blog. What do you think we should call it?

60 thoughts on “Thanks for Your Feedback – I Think We Have A Winner!

  1. Hello!
    I am one of the advisors for a high school Junior class. We are starting to gather ideas for our homecoming floats for the fall. Our mascot is the Cookie Monster, and we’ve been wanting to build a paper mache’ cookie monster at least 5 feet high somehow. I’ve been looking around your site and like the recipe for your paper mache’. Is it paintable? Do you have any ideas that would help us form the structure underneath? Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated! THANKS!

    • Hi Melissa. The clay is paintable. For something that large, you’d probably want to make a form out of chicken wire, but the clay would fall through the spaces in the wire. You would need a layer or two of paper and paste to cover the wire. Once that is dry you could add the paper mache clay if you want it stronger or more textured.

  2. hello,
    I need help!I’ve been finishing my projects with an aerosol clearcoat wich is ok but i wanted something alittle more thick ,i had been appllying a sherwin williams coat that was called (MARNOT)it was execellent for some reason i can’t seem to find it anymore!that one was applied with a brush ,so the clear coat was a little bit heavier and i liked the results.do you have any suggestions for me??i have used the polyurathane but after some days it turns yellow .

    • I usually use an artist’s matte acrylic varnish, so I don’t really know what product you could use instead. You might ask the guys at the paint store, specifically asking for a non-yellowing varnish. They should be able to help.

  3. OK – call me crazy – but I am now the proud possessor of 50 lbs. of Wonder White clay! Oh no, you may say, but it is true. Jonni – I know I’ll break the first blender I throw your new Jonni clay mixture into so what brand cement mixer do you use. I have the electric drill already.

    • Hi Joanne. I have two different mixers that fit into my electric drill. One of them is from the paint section of the hardware store (it has fins) and the other one is from the joint compound section (it looks like a cage with fins inside). Both of them work just fine. I agree that mixing really thick clay in a blender is not a good idea. My food processor seems to be holding up – but I bought it at a garage sale so I’m not too worried if it breaks.

  4. GEA zou jij dit voor mij kunnen vertalen??

    Ik kan het lezen, maar in het Engels schrijven lukt me niet goed.
    Ik volg deze site met veel plezier, er staan erg veel leuke dingen op.
    Erg leerzaam en veel bruikbare tips.
    Super dat Jonni dit alles met ons wil delen!

    Ik heb het recept ( die zonder kleipoeder)geprobeert met “Alabastine “gipsplaat vuller, dit is de luchtige versie (ondanks dat Jonni de lichte versie niet adviseerde), ik kon niets anders vinden.
    Het wordt een pasta die wel te gebruiken is, maar een klein beetje klonterig, niet zo mooi glad als in het recept. Maar het is wel in hele dunne laagjes te gebruiken , het breekt niet en is erg hard, het staat nu 5 week in de koelkast en is nog steeds bruikbaar.

    Ik heb nu ook een emmer Knauf Ò€ Stuc pastaÒ€ gekocht om te proberen, ben er nog niet aan toe gekomen, ik dacht dat ik eindelijke het goede produkt had gevonden, maar vlgs Gea werkt dit dus ook niet.

    Ik blijf zoeken.

    In Holland bestaat ook nog een ander produkt “Acrylic One”, ik weet niet of het elders te koop is, de site is in het Engels http://www.acrylicone.com/
    Er staan filmpjes op over de mogelijkheden, ik heb er 1x mee gewerkt , het beviel goed, droogt erg snel en wordt keihard, daarnaast hebben ze ook een goede sealer die het mogelijk maakt om je objecten buiten toe te gebruiken.

    Ess

    • Hello
      Ess asked to translate this for her. I will do so once and tell Ess that translate.google.nl works reasonable so she will be able to communicate on her own
      Here is Ess her note above but now in English ( had to change a few words for Dutch is hard to transate in English due to our weird grammer and verbs)
      +++++++++
      GEA would you translate this for me?

      I can read it, but I can not write English well.
      I follow this site with a lot of fun, there are a lot of nice things.
      Very informative and lots of useful tips.
      It is great that Jonni is sharing all of this with us!

      I tried the recipe (without clay powder) and used “Alabastine” drywall filler, this is the light version (despite the fact its not recommanded in Jonni version), I could find any thing else
      It creates a paste that is a little lumpy and not smooth as in the recipe for Jonni. But can be applied in very thin layers too, it does not break and is very hard, it is now 5 weeks in the refrigerator and is still usable.

      I also bought a bucket Knauf “Stuc paste” but not jet tried that, I was hoping that I found the ultimate good product but according to Gea it does not work well
      So I will keep looking.

      In Holland there is also another product “Acrylic One”, I’m not sure it is on sale elsewhere, the site is in English http://www.acrylicone.com/
      There are movies about the possibilities, I have 1x worked, it did well, dries quickly and is very hard, they also have a good sealer that allows you to use external objects.

      Ess
      +++++++++++++++

      NOTE GEA to Ess
      The Knauff ” stuc pasta” does work!! but best with Rich his own made glue!!
      You can use tranlate google and lots of people on this site do, they are from Sweden and Russia and all over the world so don’t worry about mistakes and just trie!
      I happen to have an English partner so you learn English well but also make mistake myself but don’t care πŸ˜‰
      I am still experimenting myself but it seems to better.

      In Dutch:
      De stuc pasta van Knauff werkt WEL hoor Ess maar het beste in combinatie met de zelfgemaakte lijm van Rich te vinden op
      http://devilseve.blogspot.com/2012/02/homemade-glue.html
      De liquide starch is te vinden op Youtube

      Ik ben zelf ook nog steeds zoekende maar het lukt me aardig om er leuke dingen mee te maken… alleen Jonni haar fast setting paste lukt nog niet echt…
      Ik had je bericht helemaal niet gezien. Ess.. Ik heb het nu 1 x vertaalt maar je kunt voortaan translate.google.nl gebruiken. . Er zijn mensen uit Zweden en Rusland die ook zo communiceren! Werkt prima en maak je geen zorgen om de fouten πŸ˜‰

      Het recept voor de lijm van Rich is ( RICH HOME MADE GLUE RECIPE):
      · 1 cup flour = ca 250 ml
      · 1/3 cup sugar = ca 80 ml
      · 1/3 cup liquid starch = ca 80 ml
      · 1-1/2 cups water = ca 350 ml= (1x 250 + 1 x halve cup is ca 125 ml)
      · 1 tsp. vinegar = ca 5 ml

      Voor de Liquid starch: –> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgzlvDDJRRE

      · 1 cup water= ca 250 ml
      · 2 teaspoons cornstarch ( mais zetmeel)
      · 3 tablespoons water

      Massurement converter U.S and U.k. to Europian:
      1 tablespoon = 15 ml
      1 teaspoon = 5 ml
      1/2 teaspoon = 2,5 ml
      1/4 teasoon = 1,5 ml

      Ik ben ook aan het expirementeren maar het lukt aardig πŸ˜‰
      Succes

      Gea

  5. Nice painting technics Rich!

    I do like Jonni her site and love to read what she and other people like you post and I absorbe and learn.

    About 20 years ago … god time flys… turning 42 soon πŸ˜‰ I saw an artical in a creative magazine about Greek vases or pots and they were hudge. They used rainwater barrells as an armature. Pretty close to your techic Rich!
    Your video and the paper “edges” around it to make the shape was wicked!!
    I have a enomous moneypenny plant that needs a pot around the plain one it is in now…
    ofcourse I will keep the landscape bucket in it so my plants won’t die;-)

    Jonni her post on the making TEXTURE ROLLERS for clay is also great . Thanks Jonni !
    You fill my head with lots of ideas….
    Your forum about the moulds and your pattern of the elepant gave me the idea to make small paper models for the kids I work with and i made some today them!! In my search for starting models I came upon the Yamaha site.They made wicked animal models from paper, but they are difficult for the adge I work with
    Here is the link to the Yamaha models, perhaps they can work als armatures?:

    http://www.yamaha-motor.co.jp/global/entertainment/papercraft/animal-global/index.html

    Bye for now Gea from Holland

    • Gea, those paper patterns are wonderful. I can see they would be difficult for younger kids, but they would make nice armatures for older artists. They remind me of a book I recently reviewed called The Planar Head Workbook, which gives you a paper pattern for a head, that can then be covered with paper mache. You could do the same thing with the animal patterns. Good find!

      I kind of hate to admit it, but I found the roller idea on Pinterest. I didn’t repin it though, because I’m still a bit concerned about the whole copyright thing.

  6. Jonni,

    I was curious about the “stickiness” issues with the PMC v.2 as I don’t think I’ve run into that myself. As a matter of fact, I’ve found it exceptionally sticky (particularly to my fingers!) but attributed it to the linseed oil.

    As for smoothing the surface, I’ve found if I go over it with a rubber spatula dipped in water I can get a super smooth surface. I just finished doing that now, as a matter of fact. I was adding “iron” bands to my cauldron and obtained a very smooth effect by using the rubber spatula over them. Particularly is you wait a bit for the clay to start to set it works even better. Depending on what’s being covered, you might not need to sand at all!

    Rich
    [img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/040512145814.jpg[/img]

    • Did you put clay in the v.2, or flour? Maybe that’s the difference. I watched your video, but I can’t remember the recipe. I’ve just been doing more experiments (I can’t seem to make myself stop!) and now I have decided there are two winners among all the batches I’ve done – the one with your glue and the clay for fine details, and the one with the Elmer’s and the clay for covering large areas. I made another video, but it probably won’t be up until tomorrow.

      You seem to get a much smoother surface than I usually do with the original PMC, even when I used a damp knife. I am blown away by how realistic your caldron is going to be when it’s finished. By the way, have you ever used that rusting iron finish? It’s dangerously toxic, but it sure did make my celtic helmet look like it was a real one, freshly dug out of someone’s field. Aside from the toxicity, it would be pretty expensive for a project the size of your caldron.

      Do you sell your work somewhere? I didn’t see a store link on your site. Did I miss it?

      • Actually, I may be describing the stickiness level of the v.2 in the wrong way. The clay with your glue and the clay sticks to stuff, including the armature. It doesn’t feel sticky in my hand when I’m playing with it, compared to the original recipe, but it does stick to stuff. Better than Creative Paperclay, in my opinion. But it doesn’t smooth on to the armature as fast as the version with Elmers. It’s a slower clay. Does that make any sense whatsoever to anyone but me? I like the way the one with your glue feels in the hand, and I like the one with Elmers when spread with a knife. Both of them can be made very smooth – much easier than with the original recipe.

        • I used just flour, no clay in my recipe (which is for all intents and purposes Jonni Clay 1.0 but cellulose insulation instead of toilet paper, I do put an extra splash or two of my homemade liquid starch in the mix as well).

          As for rusting, I’ve seen a few products that produce incredible rust finishes, but up till now I’ve just used paint to achieve and aged/rust appearance. Here’s one I did on a lamp that I attached to my two cemetery columns:

          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQKWgxti5J8

          And a similar technique but adding in oatmeal to give a pot a grunged up look that would come with aging and rusting (pictured below). It’s probably the technique I’ll be using on the cauldron. Just not to confuse anyone, that pot is one of those little Halloween cauldrons you can buy at the dollar store every year. I just aged it.

          I did sell a couple of pieces two years ago that I did on commission. A woman who ran a haunted house was driving around near Halloween and saw me working on my yard. She stopped an asked me if I could build her a Grim Reaper, like in the picture I posted the other day, along with a few “groundbreakers,” zombies that look like they’re breaking out of the ground.

          I haven’t sold anything else yet, though I’ve thought about it. My problem is I get attached to my creations. I figure I can use them just as much as someone else. πŸ™‚

          As for the stickiness, since I haven’t used the Elmer’s version I guess I can’t make a comparison (or else I’m dense, which is a distinct possibility). Maybe because I like your v.2 so much I just have a hard time believing it can smooth over the surface even faster. Maybe v.3 will come up with a nice cross between Elmer’s and homemade glue that gives the benefit of being cheap but has the properties that I’m sure a PVA glue adds to the overall mix.
          [img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/DSCF1672.jpeg[/img]

          • Wow – your rust looks even rustier than my helmet. I will watch that video from beginning to end to see how you did it. It looks great.

            I think there are too many PMC recipes now – I can’t keep them all straight. And I forgot to put the elmers+clay recipe back on the JonniClay2 post. I’ll go do that now. Your comment just made me realize that what I haven’t tried, but should, is a cross between the elmers+clay and the Rich’s glue+clay recipes. Maybe half Elmer’s, half Rich’s, and see what that does. But I just finally got my kitchen cleaned up from all the experiments I did last week, so it may need to wait.

    • Excellent video, Rich. That cauldron is going to be fabulous when it’s dry and finished – especially with the skulls and other detailing. And it was fun getting to see the person behind the name, too. Thanks for sharing the link.

      I still have half a bale of cellulose insulation, which can’t be used in my original recipe because it reacts weirdly with the glue and joint compound combination. Now, with your home-made glue replacing the Elmer’s there’s actually a way for me to use it up. The insulation I bought actually has tiny bits of plastic mixed in, though – I think I might need to start over with a different brand.

      • And your caldron reminded me that I ran across this idea for making texture rollers for clay. I think the idea would work for creating repetitive borders on bowls or trays made with paper mache clay – but only the version using your home made glue. The version using Elmers would be too sticky, I think. However, a layer of the original recipe would make a strong bowl, and the “monster clay” could be added around the rim and then textured. hmmm…

    • Hi Rich

      I watched your link and Video and I am verry exited for you have just showed me some thing I have been willing to make for so long in the way I want to make it!!! nice big pots for my plants . SMILE

      Your isolation and the glue and flour is something I can find and make over here in Holland . All I need to get is the RIGHT joint compound.!!!!

      I will still try to make the Jonni Good Clay 1 and 2 πŸ˜‰
      But this helped tooo…..

      • Gea, you might actually have better luck with Rich’s recipe, especially if the joint compound you use has different ingredients than the ones we buy here in the States. In fact, we have one brand, made by Dap, that really doesn’t work at all – it’s great for building walls, but when it’s mixed with the glue it turns the glop into balls of rubber. That wouldn’t happen if you use Rich’s home-made glue recipe, so you might want to give it a try.

        • Hi
          My clay did not and up like rubber but i do believe I did not use the right messures and to much paper…

          the ” jointed compoind” I used is called ” Stuc pasta” from the brand Kanuf
          In Holland they dont write the ingredients verry well on the products
          It says its for thin laers of drywall constructed from a PLASTIC ( that might also be the reason it doensnt work) dispersion of fine mineral fillers, calcium carbonate and is used for making flat and smooth surfaces, and can be applied as a finish layer… if that makes any sence…

          I will try it again and experiment since I have 5 kg of that stuff……and I dont want to give up to soon…..but if it does not work I will try Ricks recipe as you suggested it might work better for me

          Thanx again

          Gea

      • Gea,

        Good luck! I think it’s great Jonni has provided a forum where we can all come together and share ideas so that we can tweak what’s offered to meet our needs.

        I’m assuming, though, when you say you want to make big pots for your plants that you’ll be starting with a landscape planter as I did with the cauldron, because even with adequate protection I’m not sure how long paper clay would hold up if it was filled with dirt (which contains a lot of moisture on its own) and was also subjected to regular waterings.

        I did do an experiment one time where I took ceiling tile which is very porous and absorbs water like a sponge and covered it with various coatings and then let it sit in a bucket of water for a few hours. In that instance it actually held up quite well. I just worry about extended periods (weeks, months) of constant contact with moisture.

        However, with a liner of sorts I think the paper clay would work quite well as an outer “shell.” Good luck on finding joint compound too.

        Rich

  7. I’d like to consult Jonni and the “Jonni community” about two questions:

    1) I’m looking for a a durable finish coat for some papier mache bowls we’ve been making at the workshop for people with intellectual disabilities where I work. We’ve built them (using strips and paste) and painted them (white white glue, gesso, and craft paint) and now I want to finish them. I doubt there is anything that would make them “food grade” but I do want to make them as durable and water proof as possible. Some of you have mentioned marine spar varnish for outside sculptures, but would that leave a varnish-ey smell? What’s the hardest, safest, not-terribly-expensive thing you would all reccommend?

    2) In the original paper mache clay recipe, is the “cheap toilet paper” the cheap fluffy kind one might buy for household use, or the cheap, dense, slightly scratchy kind one might find in a hospital or gas station? I imagine there is a significant difference in the amount of paper pulp between the two. Thanks all for your help!!

    P.S. Jonni, you always ask for pictures of the finished product, so here are a couple of our first two bowls, in progress, and ready for the final finish. The papier mache artist is my friend Buddy Payne.
    [img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/DSC00208.JPG[/img]

    [img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/DSC00211.JPG[/img]

    • Hi Silas. The bowls are lovely. If you intend to use the bowls inside, and there will never be water sitting in the bowls, the least expensive finish would be a water-based Verathane or MinWax finish from the hardware store. These products don’t have the strong odor that solvent-based products have, so they seem to be safer to use if you’re applying the finish inside. The spar varnish has been suggested for items that will be left outside, like sculptures, but I doubt that your bowls will be subjected to extreme weather, since bowls are usually used inside the house. And since they probably can’t be made “food grade” or put in the dishwasher, the Verathane should work just fine. You might even be able to use an acrylic varnish, like I use for my sculptures.

      There are products that claim to be so waterproof that you can use them for items near fountains and where they might be hit by ocean spray. I doubt that your bowls would need anything like that, but I did order some to see if it really holds up outside. The kind I ordered is called “Smart Coat,” and they say you can use it on countertops. I don’t know if that means it’s food grade or not. You could send them an email and ask.

    • I forgot to answer you question about the toilet paper. I use the soft kind, but other people use newspapers and other recycled paper that has been soaked in water, and then blended to break up the fibers. I don’t think it matters what kind of paper you use, as long as you don’t use too much. The damp paper shouldn’t be more than 1 1/2 cups per recipe.

  8. Hi jonni,

    Just a thought: How about double layering? Put a coat on of Jonni clay 1 to give it strength and than add Jonni clay 2 to add details, etc. Isn’t that kind of what you did for the elephant in the book?

    • Yes, I think that’s exactly what needs to be done. I’m building a small practice piece now, and the new clay is a lot slower to work with on the initial layer. But it’s much better for details. So I think it should be used just as you suggest. It could be used just for eyes and noses and toes, etc., and it could also be used as a really nice smooth top coat over the original pmc after it dries. It would be great for any stamped texture, too.

      Now for another question, totally unrelated – do you know anything about Facebook? I have a Facebook problem, and I’m hoping someone can help…

      • Sorry can’t help you there! I don’t have a facebook account. I closed my account about 6 months ago and haven’t gone back to that. But I hope you found an answer to your question.

        • Oh and that would be great if the second layer gives it a smooth finish. I’ve been sanding some projects over the last few days trying to get it smoother and it’s my least favorite part of the process.

          • Yes, this new version is way easier to sand. But the stickiness of the original version is really best for covering the armature on the first layer.

        • Yes, I think I found the answer. I did something wrong – no surprise there. I’ve been online for about 12 years, and I have built about 100 sites. In my humble opinion, learning html coding was easier than trying to figure out Facebook. But they say “everyone” is on Facebook, so I have to try. Sigh…

      • Is the double layering idea proving to work well for anyone as described by this poster and Jonni? Curious to know. Jonni I have a Facebook account but got locked out of my account and frankly? The 2 month break was a relief.

        Mine is a personal acct but I have some biz contacts mixed in. I realize you need your FB acct for Ultimate Paper Mache, so I hope someone has helped you by now with your issue.

        I will eventually resolve why it is not accepting my password- but right now, it is one less social site I have to log into.

        ( Logging into each site and responding to emails can be far more time consuming than you realize until you add up just how much time you spend on each site. Some of my friends are opting out. However, those utilizing social network sites for business can’t really do this.)

        Do you have Ultimate Paper Mache on LINKED IN?
        I found there are quite a few artisan people and orgs on there.

        If you wish to get your name out there, you might as well use the sites that are currently hot at this time. πŸ™‚

        • So far, most of the ideas with the clay are still in development stage. Of course, the original paper mache clay can be layered very successfully. I just haven’t had time to play with the new recipes as much as I would like.

          I think I have an account on Linked in, but I never go there – which I know is a big mistake. I try to stay up on the new technology, but I always seem to fall a bit behind…

    • Hi Jonni

      Combining the two ….. I am still stuggeling with your Jonni clay 1 πŸ˜‰

      My enormous tree is getting there !!! the trunk, the bark and the largest branches are done , now the details and smaller branches are made and then I can paint and add the leaves ( bought 250 ficcus leaves on ebay hope they are good.) When it is finished I will add a photo. For the bark I used your Jonni clay 1 but as I mentioned before the jointed compoined is difficult to get in Holland …. I might have bought the wrong one! For the bark it was okish , it did look like cookie dough and like frosting seen in your video’s, but it woudn’t stick verry well. I tried it on several items ;-(
      Maybe I did not sufficiently stirred and kneaded it or may not have the used the right quantities, I am not used to cups and american messurments. The linseed oil made the clay a bit yellow I thought.

      BUT won’t give up until I have copied your recipie to perfection πŸ˜‰ and if I my next try failes i will try the Jonni clay 2! Up till now my dutch recipe with toiletpaper, geelband, wall paper glue works the best for me at this moment along with the paperstrips and flour and water although I add powderd wallpaperglue in it als well.

      It is rock hard and spreads well , sanding does seem to be difficult. I made a cat before but it was a bit rough so I added the clay-1 on it to smooth it a bit. ..

      If any one from Holland or Belgium knows the right ingredients for your clay-1 and 2 recipe I would realy be happy πŸ˜‰

      Jonni, one more question… you also mentioned in several video’s that you use your fast setting papermache PASTE and you only use 2 layers of paper towels. and then you add structure with the clay am I right? Do you mean your raw flour with water paste recipe and could you explaine a bit more?
      I really want to try that techic so badly
      Your post from ” the head on wet clay” and “the wolf on clay armature” are so good and it looks so easy!!!
      I tried to use the jonny- clay -1 on a damp kitchen towel but it didn’t work. ..:-( it did not attach to the damp towell

      I havent bought your books yet perhaps it all is better explained in them but my 2 young cats have cost me so much the last months its crazzy, neutering and my walnut got an infected tooth and got seroisly ill from that and today they asscaped up on my 10 m roof and did not dare to get down so I had to pay a brave man from the rescue team πŸ˜‰

      Happy easter to you all out there!!!
      Greetings Gea from Holland

      • Hi Gea – I wonder if the joint compound you’re using has different ingredients than the ones available here. Or perhaps there is too much paper in the mix? I use a roll that contains about 1 1/2 cups of damp paper (about 350 ml?).

        The fast-setting paste is made with white glue and plaster, plus a bit of vinegar. The exact proportions, and how to use the paste and towels, are in my second video about the pantalone mask. I really need to get all these recipes in one place one of these days – I know I’m causing confusion with all the different versions. The paper mache clay, (any version) won’t work with paper towels, as you have discovered.

        I do hope your cats are all safe and snug by now, and that they don’t find any more ways to cost you a small fortune. They can find ways to make life interesting, can’t they?

        • Thans Jonni for your reply

          I think you might be right about the amounts of paper I added. I did buy an English messuring tool yesterday pretty close to the american sizes it is close to 35o ml as you wrote πŸ˜‰
          Thanxs for reminding me of your second video about the pantalone mask it does explain it well I did see it before but your website is such a wealth of information !
          Cant wait to get started but I have to finish my other project first πŸ˜‰
          My cats are fine now .. they have to stay in one more week because of the neutering 2 days ago. I tried to keep them as indoor cats but thats what they are CATS and they want to explore the world . My bird and FISH loving neighbours wont like it for these brothers are hunters……

  9. Always such interesting discussions and suggestions here, Jonni!

    I wanted to thank you for participating in our seven artist Pet Portrait Auction, right here in front of all your fans. πŸ˜€ The group is just thrilled to have you (and the other artists!), and I can’t wait to see what you come up with for your winning bidder once the closing bell has rung!
    If any of you would like Jonni herself to make a portrait mask of YOUR pet, you can pre-register right over here: http://xans-art.com/PortraitAuction/index.php

    Thanks again, Jonni!

  10. Jonni!

    Just watched your video, where you clarified things for newcomers to your site and to your paper mache clay concept.

    I understood everything except one part- probably because it kind of left things open ended to me.

    When you said people do not need to use boiled linseed( though it does add to a stronger finish- which I find important)- you offered up glycerine as an alternative.

    I have bought glycerine from my pharmacy( straight glycerine). It seems to be found in soaps and appears to be a substances that offers moisturizing properties to skin.

    Just offering my experience with it. It really should be looked up, on line, in some dictionary to be sure of all its uses.

    In any case, glycerine seems quite benign compared to the BOILED linseed- but here is where I got lost.

    You said glycerine could be used instead in order to get a hard finish- but did you mean in stead of BOILED LINSEED or LINSEED in period?

    I was assuming you were suggesting we add glycerine into the recipe using PLAIN linseed oil to get the extra strength that the boiled would have offered- is that the correct presumption? I just want to be sure.

    I found the company that makes head portraits/sculptures and I saved a link of dog heads, that just happend to be boxers for you to see. I much prefer your portrait/mask of your visiting friend, as it is far more animated in appearance and also larger than what this company is producing.

    ( They also other dog heads- as well as portraits/sculptures of famous people and characters- but too petite for my tastes).

    While this is an old company and some pieces that are out of production command a few hundred dollars, I will take a paper mache mask over them any day!

    I suppose for the hardcore collector of these petite faces, it makes sense to keep them on the small size; especially if you decide to fill a wall up with them.

    But for character and charm, I still prefer Jonni Good’s masks- especially that puppy’s! πŸ™‚

    I have a photo to send you via email to show you why I am so taken with that boxer boy puppy mask you created. If he only knew what a celebrity he has become! (smile).

    Love the idea of supporting Greyhound rescue- we have their mugs and sweatshirts and pens, as we check out their adoption events in our area and support their rescue. Such beautiful, gentle animals.

    People think because they have raced( at least the retired ones)- they can’t be good pets. To the contrary, they are very loving animals and can be quite calm and docile in the home.

    ( This is definitely one breed you must always have them on a leash when out and about for their own good and yours: good luck chasing after a greyhound that spotted a squirrel!)

    Just thought I would make sure I understood( or maybe did not understand the glycerine suggestion. Add in with regular linseed- or use straight- no linseed? I seem to think you meant the former)

    Thanks again for you help Jonni! Will be in touch πŸ™‚
    Fondly,
    Janice

    • Hi Janice. I’d love to visit that site with the portrait sculptures. Do you have the link?

      The glycerin is a safer alternative to the boiled linseed oil, but I don’t think it creates as hard a surface as the linseed oil does. Non-boiled linseed oil, (either from the art store or flax seed oil from the natural food store) would also work, and they don’t have the chemicals that boiled linseed oil does. The oil is the one ingredient in the original recipe that bothers the most people, and I always suggest that if people are uncomfortable with the chemicals, they should just leave it out, or use glycerin instead. (I don’t actually know what the glycerin does in the recipe, but I think it’s an ingredient in the cold porcelain recipes).

      Another note on the oil – somewhere I read (maybe one of the comments on this site, actually) that a lot of “linseed oil” that is now sold is really sunflower seed oil. I don’t know if that’s true or not. The linseed oil was used traditionally in paper mache for it’s drying properties. The Victorian paper mache items also included gypsum, I think, which is primarily calcium – and the joint compound is also primarily calcium. It’s possible that the oil binds with the joint compound, creating a harder surface. But I’m not a chemist, so I don’t know. I just know that I throw in the boiled linseed oil, but if people don’t like it they can leave it out. πŸ™‚

      I’ll go check my email now so I can see that photo you sent. I’m glad you’re excited about the greyhound rescue portrait auction. It really is a good cause.

  11. Hi Jonni, I agree with Jim that it should still be called Jonni Clay 2 or even just Jonni Clay. You are the one who comes up with the great ideas, asking for input shouldn’t negate that fact! You are so kind to share so much information with all of us, you should be able to patent or copywrite your ideas if you choose to. Thanks for all you do! I hope you help raise lots of money for the sighthounds!

  12. Hello there! I wanted to post a picture of my very first sculpture using your paper clay recipe (the older one with Elmers and Flour). I think that this stuff is great and I look forward to trying the homemade glue with the ceramic clay additive. During my online searches I have found it hard to find “powdered ceramic clay”. Can I just use any powdered clay or does it have to be ceramic?
    [img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Gregsmall.jpg[/img]

    • Hi Will. Love the little guy. Is there a story for his character?

      Any powdered clay should work. The clay I used for these experiments is a low-fired clay body from Georgies in Portland, called Wonder White. They only sell it in 50 pound bags, and the shipping costs as much as the clay itself. I really just threw in the word “ceramic” because the word “clay” is starting to get confusing (since the paper mache recipe is called clay, too).

      Does anyone else know of a pottery supply store online that sells smaller quantities of powdered clay?

      • Amaco makes a 5 lb box of Clay Flour … No X-23 … and it looks like MisterArt.com sells it for >$10. I have an old box of it in my studio — it’s grey, not white, but it mixes fine.

        • Perfect – just the information we needed. Thanks. (The clay I have is grey, too, but I think it fires white in a kiln – hence the name Wonder White.) I think it would be fun to use a red clay, too. If it dries with enough color, it could be sealed without painting to make a faux terra cotta sculpture. Maybe. If anybody tries it, please let us know how it turns out.

  13. Should Still be Jonni Clay You asked for input does not mean the name of the clay has to be changed. Love Your Work and am going to try my hand at this soon. Thanks for your great video’s and information. Health, Wealth and Happiness……..to you Jonni…..
    JIM

  14. Hi Jonni – I have been following your new recipe with great interest and I thank you, very much, for that. The homemade glue is a wonderful addition – what a great dollar saver that will be. I noticed you mentioned that the new clay isn’t as strong as the original and you consider that to be a drawback. Well, I know of a wonderful product that may be of interest to you – you may or may not have already heard of it – it’s called PAVERPOL I have been using it for fabric sculptures and household repairs for quite some time and it is absolutely fantastic. It is very easy to work with, stays fresh in a sealed container, sets rock hard, is weatherproof, comes in different textures, colours, etc. , and is 100% environmentally friendly. It adheres to everything except plastic. It truly is an amazing produce.
    Now that I have discovered your website and am also interested to try my hand at paper mache’ I will definitely be incorporating Paverpol into my sculptures either in the original mix or as a final topical medium.
    Please check out the website – I would be very interested to know what you think.
    Regards,
    Jane

      • Jonni,
        I also have used paverpol. I sometimes finish my paper mache with paperclay (commercial product) details. Because I like a super durable finish (I do a lot of outside art shows so things get moved a lot) I sometimes will brush paverpol onto the paper mache/paperclay before painting. It gives a rock hard finish.

        So I think just brushing it on will work with your new clay. Paverpol is very expensive but well worth it.
        I just made my first batch of Jonni clay and am anxious to see how it works. Thanks for all your hard work and sharing with us.

        • Hi Nancy. I’ve heard good things about Paverpol, but the expense has always kept me from experimenting with it. However, I did just order some Smart Coat material that seems to have very similar properties, and costs almost exactly the same (about $25 for 16 oz). Since Paverpol is intended to be used on fabric, and we would be using it differently, do you have any advice about how much a 500 gm container of the stuff would cover? If my math is correct (always questionable) it looks like the Smart Coat will cover 31 square feet per 16 oz. Is that comparable with Paverpol, do you think? And do you need to mix two parts of the Paverpol, or do you just use it right out of the container?

          • I don’t have any idea how much the Paverpol would cover but will see if I can calculate something for you. I use it right out of the container. I don’t always cover an entire piece with it. I sometimes just do the stress points on the piece or parts that project out such as the petals of a flower. I also use a product called Apoxey Sculpt which is rock hard as part of the armature for arms, etc. and cover it with a less durable covering. This gives the piece the strength it needs and allows for flexiblity in the use of an outer covering.
            [img]http://ultimatepapermache.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/josieresize.jpg[/img]

      • Hi Jonni – yes, I would say so. From my experiments with it, it can be mixed with anything. As I said before, the only thing it doesn’t like is plastic.
        Here is an excerpt from the Paverpol website…..’PAVERPOL can be used to make all sorts of materials rock-hard, such as textiles, paper, chamois leather, fiberglass, self-hardening clay and all kinds of natural materials. It will adhere to wood, ceramics, plaster, concrete, stone and tempex (polystyrene foam) etc. You can make figurines, wire figurines, garden statues, dolls, sculptures and many, many decorations’.
        It originated in Holland and is now available worldwide. You will find everything you need to know about it on the Paverpol.com website and there are numerous YouTube videos on it as well. It really is well worth a look.
        On the home front, I am very excited to try your new clay recipe with the homemade glue. I love your website & your videos – you & your beautiful cat are a major part of my weekly routine. Thank you so much for sharing your craft with the rest of the world.
        Regards & greetings to all from Australia.

        • Thanks, Jane. Now I’ll just have to do some experiments with Paverpol. Maybe not this week, though – I seem to be surrounded with boxes of things I’ve ordered for my experiments, and some of the boxes haven’t even been opened yet. But this is definitely on my list.

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