Paper Mache Animals

Paper Mache Recipes

On this page you’ll find recipes for two different home-made paper mache pastes made with white flour and water, plus several alternative paper mache paste recipes and products – including some that are gluten-free.

My favorite recipe is the easiest one, which you can see in the text and video below. If you were looking for the recipe for my famous paper mache clay recipe – click here.

Easy paper mache paste recipe:

This is the best paste to use if you’re working with a classroom of kids, because it’s both fast and inexpensive – and it’s plenty strong, too.

paper mache paste recipe

Mixing paper mache paste with an immersion blender.

To make the paste, just pour some white flour in a bowl, and add water gradually until you have a consistency that will work well. (If you want, you can use a small kitchen mixer so you don’t have any lumps. An immersion blender works great).

How thick should you make your paste?  You want it thin enough so it more closely resembles white glue than pancake batter – although thicker paste will work OK, too, if that’s the way you like it.

What kind of flour will work? You’ll need to use all-purpose white flour. Whole-wheat flour makes healthier bread, but it isn’t sticky enough to make good paste.

Make up just enough for one sculpting session. This is good advice for any paste made with wheat flour. Wild yeast is attracted to flour (that’s how sourdough bread is made.) If the paste is kept over from one session to the next, the yeast will break down the flour and make the paste less sticky (and slightly stinky). It’s best to whip up as much as you need today, throw out any paste that’s left over, and make a new batch tomorrow – or whenever you need some more. (If you need a paste that can be kept for longer periods of time, see the Elmer’s Art Paste, below.)

Be sure to clean the bowl and utensils before the paste has time to dry – it will dry very hard. That’s good for paper mache, but not so good for the person washing the dishes.

How to Make Animal Sculptures with Paper Mache Clay

Learn the secret techniques that have already helped thousands of people create beautiful, original animal sculptures … even if they’ve never sculpted anything before.

All you need is a little time, a few dollars for “art materials” that you’ll find at your local grocery and hardware store, and the clear step-by-step instructions in How to Make Animal Sculptures with Paper Mache Clay. Now available on

Boiled Flour and Water Paste:

Boiled paper mache paste takes a little longer to make, and it doesn’t seem to be any stronger than the raw flour and water paste shown above. However, it will dry almost clear, unlike the raw paste, and the surface of your paper mache sculpture will be slightly smoother. If you aren’t sure which recipe you’ll like better, mix up a batch of both of them and try them out.

To make boiled paste, mix two tablespoons of white flour with a cup of water in a small saucepan and stir until there are no lumps. A whisk works really well for this. Put the pan on the stove at medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. When it begins to thicken, be sure to watch carefully and keep stirring, to make sure it doesn’t burn. As soon as it starts to bubble, remove from heat and allow to cool. The paste will be runny when it’s hot, but it will gel slightly as it cools.

Gluten-Free Paper Mache Paste:

Elmer’s Art Paste:

Gluten-free paper mache pasteIf you mix Elmer’s Art Paste with the amount of water specified on the package you’ll have up to four quarts of gluten-free paste that doesn’t attract mold. It feels different than the more traditional wheat paste, but it works just as well. Mix it way ahead of time, because it takes longer to absorb the water than the maker claims.

Elmer’s Art Paste is made with methyl-cellulose, the product often considered the ‘gold standard’ for professional paper mache artists. It’s non-toxic, safe for kids, and a great paste for people who live in hot, humid climates.

You can mix up the entire 2 oz package and keep it in a covered jar. It won’t spoil.

Glue-Based Paste:

If you need a paste that dries perfectly clear, you can use Elmer’s Glue-All (or any white PVA glue) mixed with just enough water to make the glue thinner and easier to spread. Many people use the glue and water to avoid the gluten in wheat-based paste. I don’t personally like using it because it’s slick, which makes the pieces of paper slide around on the armature until the glue finally ‘grabs on.’ However, some people really like it, and never use anything else.

Acrylic Gel:

This isn’t really a paste, but acrylic gel medium does a fine job of sticking paper onto an armature. This is the product that I use when I add colored tissue paper as a final layer over a paper mache sculpture. If you do this, make sure the paper mache underneath is completely dry, because the acrylic medium could dry on top, sealing moisture inside. This would lead to problems later on.

I use the gel medium with tissue paper for two reasons: It dries perfectly clear, and it doesn’t cause the fragile tissue paper to fall apart, the way a water-based paste will do.

You can use any acrylic gel medium, but the one I now use exclusively is the Acrylic Gel Medium by Rock Paint. It isn’t ‘better’ than other gels on the market, but it seems to be the least expensive product of it’s type, and it works just fine.

You can see how the gel medium worked with tissue paper on a bullfrog sculpture here: (If you follow the links on that page, you’ll find a free 3D pattern for the bullfrog.)

Drywall Joint Compound and Glue Paste:

I use this recipe, or the plaster and glue recipe below, whenever I make a mask or sculpture with blue shop towels. Just just two or three layers of the heavy shop towel paper, held together with one of these paste, will make a strong, hard skin for a sculpture or mask. I also use this recipe as gesso, to create a nice white ground for the final paint on my sculptures.

To make the paste with glue and joint compound, you’ll need a mixture of about 1/3 Elmer’s Glue-All or any white PVA glue, and 2/3 joint compound. After you’ve mixed it thoroughly, add just a small amount of water to make it thin enough to brush over your armature.

Use any joint compound except Dap brand, which doesn’t work. Walmart sells non-Dap joint compound in their paint department. You can find gallon-sized bottles of Elmer’s Glue-All at most hardware stores and DIY stores. It’s much less expensive when purchased in the larger size.

This paste is too heavy to use with newspaper, but it works great with the blue shop towels. The towels need to be completely saturated with the paste, so they’ll dry hard and strong.

You can find a video showing how I make the home-made paste (called gesso in the video) here.

Glue and Plaster of Paris Paste:

This is the paste that I used for all the masks in my book How to Make Masks. It works great with the blue shop towels, but is too heavy to use with lighter papers. Unfortunately, the towels are not available in all countries, but in the US you can find them at hardware stores, DIY stores, and Walmart. You can see a three-video series of a Commedia del Arte Mask  mask made with the blue shop towels and the glue and plaster paste here.

The recipe for this fast-setting paper mache paste:

Mix together:

  • 1/4 cup (60 ml) white glue (Elmer’s Glue-All® or any PVA glue)
  • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) cold water
  • 1 teaspoon (5 ml) vinegar (it slows down the plaster to give you more time to work)

Then mix in:

  • 1/4 cup (60 ml) plaster of Paris

This paste will harden quickly, and may even begin to harden right in the bowl. If you will be working with children, or if you’re working on a large project, use the previous recipe for paste made with drywall joint compound and glue instead. Both recipes dry very hard when used with the blue shop towels.

Finishing Your Paper Mache Sculpture:

You can use any type of paint on your sculpture. I like to use acrylic craft paints, and I seal my sculptures with a matte acrylic varnish. If the sculpture is very dry when you paint it, and if you seal it with varnish, it should last a lifetime.


You may also like:

How I painted the Unicorn.Unicorn Pattern
Hyena Mask PatternHyena Mask Pattern
Life Sized Paper Mache Baby ElephantLife-Sized Baby Elephant


  • Hello!
    I stumbled upon this little gem and I thought to myself, WOW! this might be the ticket! i’m making a Kigurumi head for a cosplay I’ve been interested in. I was curious how thin this stuff could be spread! I don’t need it paper thin but I do need it to be wearable.
    If you have any suggestions on that frontier, I’d be glad to hear them!
    I’ll be testing out different methods to make the head, then sand it down once i find a thickness i like. I’ll certainly post updates if it all works out!

    Thanks for the tips!
    (pic of the general head idea I’m using as a reference for myself)

    • Hi Victoria. Are you thinking about using the original paper mache clay recipe? If so, you can spread it 1/8″ thick. Will you be using a form of some kind underneath? I usually recommend using the shop towels and my gesso recipe as paste, or the fast-setting paste that I use in my mask book. The result is lighter, and quite strong if you use three layers of paper and saturate them well with the paste. I made several videos about the process, and you can find the first one here.

    • I doubt it. It would be almost impossible to get a piece dry all the way through before mold starts growing. Mold can grow on wet concrete, so wet paper would be a real feast. Maybe there’s another product that would work for you – what sort of thing were you thinking about making?

  • Hi, 2 years ago I made a paper mache skeleton and just as my neighbor predicted the rats ate the whole body, I was only able to save the head!1 I had varnished him with shellac and covered it completely in plastic wrapping but somehow they managed to eat him from the inside out!!!
    Any solutions on what I can put into the paste that would make it less palatable? I have had to scale down my sculptures as there is no safe space here to store anything too large…

    Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Susan Stockstill

    • Hi Susan. I suspect that anything that includes flour will attract mice and rats, unless you can store your sculptures in a metal box when they’re not on display. The critters might not like the taste if you add hot pepper or some other flavoring, but they’d probably get used to it. You could try the Elmer’s Art Paste, which doesn’t attract mold at all. I assume that means that there’s no food in it for living creatures. It isn’t expensive, so you could give it a try.

  • Hello Jonni,
    You are certainly you’re namesake. You are very very Good.
    I wondered if you can help me-
    I have made little hands out of polystyrene, (approx 8cm long) to stick onto a paper mache body. The fingers, also made of polystyrene, have been stuck on with masking tape.
    I wanted a reasonably smooth finish but was uncertain which recipe would work best.
    Do you feel the Glue and Joint Compound Recipe might be a goer?

    Thank you kindly

    • Hi Narelle. I have not tried to use the glue and joint compound recipe over foam. It might work, but there’s really only one way to find out. If you don’t feel that it covers well enough, you could mix up a small batch of the air dry clay, which is the same recipe with paper, flour and corn starch added. It is thicker, though, so the fingers would end up being bigger.

  • Hello Jonni, I just want to say thank’s for sharing your recipe for paper clay mache..I did my very first ever piece I thought it turned out well . I thought I might try my hand at some folk art. I made as my first piece a belsnickle santa I used a 16 oz sunkist bottle for the armature which worked awesome . I also have a Canadian goose made it is almost ready for me to paint. I am going to try and share a picture of my belsnickel ..Again thanks so very much you are a great teacher . May God bless

    • Hi John. If you tried to post a photo, it didn’t work. The image size was probably too big. I’d love to see that goose – and your belsnickel (I have no idea what that is, so now I’m really curious). You can use this free online tool to make your images smaller, and I hope you’ll try again.

  • Hello, I love your down-to-earth explanations and wonderful, wonderful art!! I am enchanted. My dream is to make a copy of my brother’s miniature fox terrier someday. He is a mini-mini miniature fox terrier. He has a bad eye and has had one eye removed. I will put a pirate eyepatch on him and perhaps add wings just for fun! Perhaps, I will sort of steampunk him as well. But first I must study and learn.

    I am at a disadvantage here in Japan as often things are called different names. I have found something that I’m sure is made of Gypsum sold on Amazon for hobby molds. It says to mix it with water and then use it to make molds or let it dry and then carve it…… this sounds like plaster of Paris. Can I use this instead of dry wall compound when making the toilet paper mache…..?? The name in Japanese is gypsum for sure.

    • Hi Pamela. I love the idea of a steam-punk pirate mini fox terrier! What a fun project!

      I removed the link you sent in your other comment because it didn’t work. There may have been some Japanese characters that my English-speaking computer couldn’t translate. But I can say that I’ve never used plaster of Paris in my paper mache clay recipe, so I don’t know if it would work or not. It might harden the clay a long time before you’re really finished working with it. The glue in the mix would slow it down, but perhaps only for a few minutes. If you don’t have access to drywall joint compound in Japan, you might want to consider using the traditional paper strips and paste instead. Or use paper pulp, which is paper mushed up with some form of paste. It won’t be as smooth as the paper mache clay, but you can still do some wonderful things with it. And the strips and paste can work beautifully, too – if you have the patience to add enough layers and work slowly to get the details right.

      I hope you’ll let us see your fox terrier sculpture when it’s finished!

  • Thank you so much for your recipes! I hope my folk art papier mache piece work’s out for me! It’s my first time ! Thanks again

  • Hi Jonni
    Your website is fascinating!
    We are about to embark on some gravestone rubbings.
    We would also like to carry out some papier mache art work as some of the stones have some rather beautiful and deep carving that cannot be captured with rubbings.
    Have you any experience of this? We are concerned any residue from a mache may harm the historic stones. Any ideas on something which would not leave a residue or harm the stones?
    Miss S

    • Hi Sharon. Any paper mache paste I’ve used would stick tight to the stones, and you could damage them when you try to chip the paper mache off. You might want to consider using silicone, instead. Smooth-on has a product called Rebound-25 that you can paint on in several layers, and then peel off when it’s dry. It cures much faster than paper mache dries, and it catches every single detail. I think there are also some silicone products that are a lot like putty after they’re mixed, so you just press it onto the item. That might be better, because with a brush-on product you might need to use plaster cloth backing support, and you’d want to protect the ground from plaster drips. Of course, if this is an historic graveyard, there’s probably someone around who will tell you what’s allowed and what isn’t.

      Good luck with your project!

  • Hi! I am trying to build a float for a parade and was thinking of papermache. I would like to know which recipe I should use that would with stand weather like rain and fog. Thank you. 🙂

    • Hi Shelly. The weather will affect anything that has paper as the primary building material, so you can use any recipe. If you float is going to be quite large, you will probably want to use recycled newspaper and the raw flour and water paste, just because it’s the least expensive option; or use the paper mache clay recipe because it will go on much faster and you’ll get your float finished much sooner. After the paper mache is completely dry, you can temporarily protect it with a varnish from the hardware store that’s intended for outdoor use. This will get it through the parade day just fine, although it would not withstand a long stretch of rainy weather, like for a week or a month.

      As another alternative, you might also want to consider using old sheets and a material that’s called Monster Mud. You can find articles about it by doing a Google search. It’s often used in Halloween displays and for theater props. It’s made by mixing five gallons of pre-mixed drywall joint compound, the kind that comes in a plastic tub, with one gallon of latex paint. People say that it holds up to weather quite well after it dries, although it’s a little messy to work with. I haven’t used it myself, so I don’t know if it’s a “better” option than the traditional paper mache float or not.

      Have fun with it – and be sure to show us how your float turns out. We would love to see it.

  • Hi , thank you so much for such a great website!!! I am thinking of making figures from 1.5 litre bottles. The children build arms with twisted newspapers and attach with tape. I usually use modroc/plaster paris on rolls but it is very expensive. I am thinking of using the recipe with plaster paris, glue ,water and vinegar with blue towels to give the project a solid hard exterior. . Would this recipe be the most suitable and should I paint glue on the armature before adding paper towels?

    • Hi Katie. If you’re working with kids, you’ll want to use the recipe that contains just drywall joint compound and glue. It dries just as hard on the sculpture, but doesn’t dry quickly in the bowl like plaster. Also, make sure the kids wear gloves, because both plaster and joint compound can dry out the skin. I dip my blue shop towels in the paste to make sure it has the goo on both sides, so you won’t need to put glue on the armature first. Have fun!

      • Hi Jonni, thank you so much for your help . Just after seeing the question below and wondering if, I too, would be as well off using the flour mixture?

        • The flour and water mixture has been used by zillions of kids and teachers, and if it has time to dry all the way through the sculptures will last for years. If that sounds easier, then by all means go ahead and use it.

          • site,Really like your site, I’m making a paddle mask for use with a costume I’ve designed for a hubby is taking me ..he doesn’t like wearing a costume…so if he was doing this for me..I wanted him to be comfortable…amazed at the costume I’ve made him..and proud to wear it! chose Jack…to my Sally…So far so good…useing thin 1/4″ plywood..cutting the heads out ., then applying handle to back…then building a slightly 3d image but only 2/3″thick at the crest of the nose… useing your paper mache …. any suggestions for keeping it “lite”can make eye sockets around the eye holes and cover with a thin material you can see through..for photo lineup…will be wearing on a strap..attached to shorts when not needed for him and on a belt for me…still working on mine….

            • Hi Judy. This sounds like a great project. Do they have fancy dress parties on your cruise?

              Do you happen to have a photo of your mask? If we could see it we might be able to offer some suggestions. If you already tried to upload a photo, please edit it to make the file size smaller and try again. 😉

  • Thank you for all of the wonderful information.

    I will be leading a class of 5th graders doing bird sculptures.

    They have drawn a picture of their bird. The next step is shaping a tin foil neck and head into a plastic juice bottle body.

    Will the raw flour and water mixture cover the two mediums adequately and can this mixture be painted over? We will use acrylic paints.

    Thank you!

    • Hi Jessyka. The raw flour and water mixture should cover the two materials just fine. There may be a gravity problem if the kids use a lot of paste and make the paper really heavy – it might slide down the sides of the bottle. You might want to test it at home before the class. The way to keep the paper mache from sliding off would be to use a large piece of paper for the first layer, so it completely surrounds the bottle. It’s hard to explain, but if you play with it you’ll see what I mean.

      And yes, I paint over the paper mache made with flour and water with acrylic paint. It works really well. Do be sure the paper mache has plenty of time to dry before painting – in a school room with lots of paper mache drying, the humidity in the air slows things down.

      We would love to see those bird sculptures when they’re done. If the kids don’t mind sharing, I hope you’ll post a photo so we can see how they came out.

  • Hi!
    I want to make a pull-string pinata for a birthday using a large balloon as the base. I have never tried paper mache before and I’m really confused between all the options available. I will coat it with strips of newspaper or old journal/A4 pages and then I will use glue and crepe paper to decorate. What recipe do you suggest I should use?
    Also, can the pinata be made 2-3 months before the actual use? Or will it gather mold etc?
    Thanks in advance!

    • I’m not the right person to ask, since I’ve never made a pinata. I can say that the raw flour and water paste should work just fine, and it can be made and store for several months if you make sure that the paper mache can’t absorb moisture from the air. In some climates, this is not easy if the finished piece has not been sealed with varnish.

  • Hi Jonni,

    I making a tunnel for kids to walk through (Alice in Wonderland Rabbit hole) it’s about 5 feet tall, 4ft long and 28 inches wide. I will eventually paint it black and glue Alice in Wonderland items to the inside of the tunnel walls. The montage is made of chicken wire. Which Papier mache recipe would you recommend for this? Thanks so much!


    • Hi Carlos. The answer may depend on where this long tunnel will be placed. If it will be in a school building or any other public place, check first to see if you’re required to use a fireproof material. The authorities may have concerns about a project this large made out of paper. If they say ‘no,’ you can use plaster cloth instead.

      The next issue is also about safety – kids horse around, and chicken wire, even when covered with paper mache (and cardboard, see next paragraph) will collapse if a child falls against it. Some kids might even try to climb the outside of the tunnel, just to see if they can. This might not matter if it’s just the tunnel that’s hurt, but the ends of chicken wire are really sharp. You’ve probably already thought of this and have a solution already figured out, but I thought I’d throw it out there in case other readers see your post and decide to make a rabbit hole themselves. Engineering is not my thing, so I can’t offer any suggestions myself.

      If you decide to go ahead and use paper mache, you’ll then have the problem of getting the paper and paste to stick to the wire. In this situation, gravity rules. It would be easiest to go to your local appliance store and ask them if they have any large cartons they’ll give you. They’ll probably be happy to let you have as many as you want. Cut long pieces of the heavy cardboard and bend it so it goes up and over the chicken wire. You can attach it to the wire or other supports with cable ties or short pieces of wire. Now you have a base that paper mache will stick to. For something this big, I’d use the cheapest and fastest recipe, the raw flour and water paste. Use a large brush to put the paste on the cardboard, and stick on big sheets of newsprint or heavy brown paper. The brown paper comes in long rolls, and you can get it at Walmart or a hardware store, and it is conveniently earth-colored.

      I hope this helps. It’s a big project, and should be great fun for the kids. Be sure to let us see how it turns out.

  • Hi jonni

    I just love your videos and there are very inspiring.I wanted to try many of ur crafts.U have mentioned blue shop towels.But they are not available in India.Can u please suggest me some alternative for blue shop towels??

    Thank you

    • Yes, that is a problem – the Scott towels aren’t available everywhere. It’s a thick paper that’s slightly stretchable. A thick kitchen paper towel might work. Other than that, I’m just not sure. I only like using them with the plaster and glue paste, or the drywall joint compound and glue paste. They don’t seem to work well with plain flour and water paste, the way most paper does, because they’re so absorbent.

  • Hi Jonni:

    What glue recipe would you recommend if I am planning on using a latex mould for my sculpture, but I’m not sure if any of these recipes will cause the paper to stick to the mould.

    Any suggestions?


    • Hi Dany. I have not used a latex mold with paper mache, so I can’t offer any suggestions. If you have a scrap mold, or if you’re making molds and you can just pour some latex out on a piece of paper to get a test piece, you’d be able to try a few of the recipes to see if they work.

  • Hi Jonni,
    I have been tasked with making humongous eggs (not whole but 2/3 full so the kids can sit under them) for my kids High School production of HONK the musical (the story of the ugly duckling. I found 36″ balloons that I will be using as the form. I will need them to be a little very sturdy but I will also need to cut a jagged edge out of the bottom. Which recipe would you suggest being best for such a project. Thanks for your videos they have been very helpful.

    • Hi Beth. I’d probably cheat and use plaster cloth for the base, like I did for my Humpty Dumpty. The fabric inside the plaster cloth will reinforce your shell, so three layers of the plaster cloth plus several layers of paper strips and paste might be enough to make the shells strong enough. If you used just paper strips and paste, you’d need ten layers or more to hold up to the kind of handling the egg shells will get during rehearsal and the actual performance. For extra strength you could add a thin layer of the original paper mache clay recipe on top of the plaster cloth. It dries very hard, and it’s really strong – but without an armature underneath it will still be somewhat fragile without the support of the plaster cloth. It isn’t entirely smooth, though, and could be uncomfortable against the players’ heads, so I’d use newspaper strips and the raw flour and water paste for the inside of the shells. You can test the strength of your materials with a small test piece first, before making up all the eggs. Good luck with it!

  • Hi there! First, you do amazing work! It gives us all something to aspire to! Second,I am having a problem. I can’t get my second layer to lay down! I am using flour, water, pva glue, starch and salt. My first layer went great. Now it won’t lay down to adhere and it is completely dry. I used an asterisk pattern on the first layer to get good coverage. Do I even need a second layer? Should I make my paster “wetter”? Very frustrating. Please help! 🙂

    • Hi Sean. Are you saying that your first layer curled up when it dried? What are you using for your form? Is it something that the paper mache can actually stick to, or is it plastic or ceramic? I have never used the formula you’re using, so I’m not sure how to fix your problem. You seem to be using a bit of everything to make your paste. If you’re using a form that the paper mache can stick to, but it isn’t sticking, maybe you could use a more traditional recipe, and do two or three layers at one time. That way, even if the first layer isn’t stuck to the armature, the layers on top would hold it all together.

      • The armature was a beach ball. The first layer seems to be fine. It was done with a shredded phone book. I wanted to make it more substantial and tried to add a layer of news paper to it and the new layer won’t lay down on the first. I forget where I got that recipe, but apparently it wasn’t from you! Haha. Simpler may be better.

  • Would any of these make synthetic lace rock hard without changing the look of the pattern? I know it will add thickness and I’m not concerned with that just need it to be rock hard. Thank you.

    • I don’t think so. What you probably need is either a fabric stiffener, like Paverpol, or a two-part resin. The folks at Smooth-on would let you know if they have a resin that would work the way you want it to. Or do a Google search for Paverpol to see how people are using that product.

      • Hi I don’t know if you saw this but I’d really love to get your opinion!:

        Hi Jonni:

        What would you recommend if I’m planning to cover a pre made sculpture with one layer of printed images on regular printer paper? This is a major university level art project that I’m hoping to keep around and exhibit in the future, so I want it to be as durable and long lasting as possible. I also want it to be completely clear. I don’t have a lot of experience with paper mache. Does adding wheat make it less clear, but stronger than just water and glue? Does cooking the mixture make a difference?

        Any advice would be appreciated.

        So far I’m planning on using a combination of

        salt (to avoid mold)
        simple white glue, possibly Weldbond.
        small amount of wheat and cornstarch (?)

        I’m not sure what the amount of each ingredient should be for a batch.


        • Hi April. I don’t know if wheat flour will make a glue mixture stronger. The flour is normally mixed with water and used that way, without the glue. The raw flour and water paste is not clear. I’ve been using acrylic medium when I want the last layer of paper’s printed images to show up clearly. An alternative would be Elmer’s Art Paste, a product made with Ethyl Cellulose (I think I got that right). That’s the material that’s used by librarians when they need to repair old manuscripts. Mold and bugs don’t seem to like it, and it dries clear. You mix it with water, so a little goes a long way. (Read the directions – it isn’t as easy to mix as you would expect.)

          If you prefer to use Weldbond, which is the strongest option, be sure to test it with a piece of your printed paper. I believe it may dry yellow. You could use it for all the paper layers except the top one, though, and you’d have a very strong sculpture. Don’t mix flour with the Weldbond. I don’t think you need any salt if you use Weldbond (or with acrylic medium or Elmer’s Art Paste. I believe the Weldbond is made with mold inhibitors, and mold doesn’t like the other two options.)

          Have fun!

  • Hi Jonni:

    What would you recommend if I’m planning to cover a pre made sculpture with one layer of printed images on regular printer paper? This is a major university level art project that I’m hoping to keep around and exhibit in the future, so I want it to be as durable and long lasting as possible. I also want it to be completely clear. I don’t have a lot of experience with paper mache. Does adding wheat make it less clear, but stronger than just water and glue? Does cooking the mixture make a difference?

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    So far I’m planning on using a combination of

    salt (to avoid mold)
    simple white glue, possibly Weldbond.
    small amount of wheat and cornstarch (?)

    I’m not sure what the amount of each ingredient should be for a batch.


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