How to Make a Pantalone Mask, Part 3

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In the first two videos I created a mold for a traditional Pantalone mask with modeling clay, and then covered it with two layers of fast-setting paper mache. In this video I show you how I finish the mask. This is similar to one of the mask projects from my new book “How to Make Masks!” which is now available on Amazon.com.

I really like how this guy came out. That bright face and long nose would really get some attention.

By the way, I’ve been contacted by several artists who have blogs of their own who intend to put up links to my new book, or even write reviews – which I appreciate very much, of course  ;). If you do link to the book, be sure to use your own Amazon.com associates link if you have one. And if you write a review, please let me know so I can link back to you.

If you missed the other videos in this series, you can find them here – How to Make a Mask, Part 1, and How to Make a Mask, Part 2.

52 thoughts on “How to Make a Pantalone Mask, Part 3”

  1. Thank you so much for all the recipes and tips. I am trying to make a sculpture/planter for some indoor hanging plants of mine. I like how the paper mache is strong but most importantly light. I saw in one of your videos (pantalone mask) that wetting the piece could make it weak. Wet soil I’m guessing would ruin the planters. Do you have any suggestions on how to use your paper mache recipes for use as a planter? Would it just be a matter of sealing it with a varnish or paint? Any suggestions would be totally appreciated!

    • Hi Lisa. I don’t think any varnish or paint would last very long in constant contact with water. Several people have mentioned lately that they’re having good luck with FlexSeal for outdoor projects, and that might work for your pots. However, I haven’t tried it myself so I can’t guarantee it. You’d want to make sure your table is very well protected, in case the water manages to seep through.

      I tried several different ways to waterproof paper mache clay, and my experiments didn’t work. I will try the FlexSeal sometime this year, and see how well it holds up to a year or so to Minnesota weather. My instinct, however, is to suggest that you create your pots with material that’s actually intended for that use, so there’s no need to encase the paper mache in some form of plastic and then hope the seal never gets a pinhole that will let water inside. Aqua Resin might be a good choice.

  2. I am working on some masks using the fast setting paste. The first time, I used the Dap brand of plaster of paris and it turned out rubbery. I tried again with a different brand and it is better, but the mask is still pretty flexible even after letting it dry. What am I doing wrong?

    • You might just need to add another layer of paper and paste, or a few coats of gesso. And make sure it’s totally dry, all the way through. You’ll need to support it before adding anything damp, though, or it may flatten out.


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