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15,079 thoughts on “Daily Sculptors Group Page”

  1. Hi Jonni. Thank you for being so generous with your time and talent. I watched so many of your videos and decided to make and try your Paper Mache recipe to make an Easter display for my church. Everyone was so impressed even though it was not very elaborate. I thank you for your inspiration. I am going to try the wise men and hopefully I can make a Christmas display. Thank you again.

    Reply
  2. Thank you for sharing all your recipes. I am wondering how thick the paper mache clay can be and still dry properly. For instance can it be used to add on a bulbous nose with an armature for the nose, etc. ?
    Appreciate all the info!

    Reply
    • I haven’t actually tested that. I always start out with a layer about 1/8″ thick, and then let it dry before adding any more for details. If the air can get to all parts of the nose, it might be possible to get it to dry all the way through, but you’ll have to watch out for cracking. The outside will dry first and shrink, and the outer layer may have to shrink because the wet inside parts are still the original size. Maybe one of my readers has some experience with using the paper mache clay recipe for thicker layers than I do.

      Reply
      • My solution has been to start with a layer of traditional paper and flour mache on just the thick parts. Once dry it is easy to cover with thin layer of clay. Plus, it’s much easier to get the paper to hold odd shapes – like bulbous noses.

        Reply
  3. Có? za odkrycie! Od pewnego czasu zajmuj? si? “lepieniem z papieru” . Dzi? zosta?em mile zaskoczony tym, ?e nie jestem sam w tym papierowym ?wiecie… ?e kto? wcze?niej wynalaz? papierow? glin? dzi?ki temu przynios? rado?c tworzenia innym, dzi?kuj? prekursorce tego tematu… Dzi?ki Niej ” papierowy ?wiat nie jest szary.

    Reply
  4. I have been clumsily trying to make a clay form of paper mache with limited success. Everything from boiling shreaded newspaper to using paper insulation. You have really done it. I love the work you do and appreciate the great advice. I am not an artist like yourself, more of a hack closet art experiment guy. I need or want something for something so i try to figure out how to fabricate it on a budget. Thank you so much for all you share.

    Reply
  5. Hi Jonni,
    Your work/website is fantastic!! I’ve been tasked with making a life-size cow for my son’s school play. Needless to say, I was thrilled to find your site as a resource! I watched your video on building the baby elephant and am thinking I’ll use the same process, but for a cow. Just wanted to reach out and see if you had any advice to offer as I embark on this project? Also, I was wondering if the cow mask pattern would be close to life size/able to be used for the head? Thank you so much & thanks again for the wonderful resource you have created through your website/YouTube videos!
    V/r,
    Kim

    Reply
    • Hi Kim. It sounds like you have a very exciting project planned! The cow head isn’t life-sized, but you can print the pattern bigger and the pieces will still fit together. It might take several tries to get it to fit your body pattern – or start with the head and make your body pattern fit. That might be easier. The size of the head if printed ‘actual size’ is about 8 inches (20 cm) high, 15.5 inches (39 cm) wide and 12 inches (30 cm) deep.

      I have a video showing how I make the kind of pattern that’s used for the standing baby elephant. People have used that method to make all kinds of animals, so it would certainly work for a cow, too. You can see that video here. Have fun! 🙂

      Reply
  6. Hi Jonni,
    Thanks for all your recipes and videos. I discovered something I’d like to share. I don’t have a hand mixer. I’m a chemist and I thought of something better than soaking TP in water and squeezing it to start. I used your air smooth air dry recipe but changed the process. I measured the 34g TP, ripened into single square at the perforation. Then measured the 130 g PVA and added the 86 g of water to the glue. (110-24=86). I added a single TP sheet at a time and used chop sticks to mix it around until it looked like the TP was dissolved. Once all the TP was mixed in I added the drywall and mixed it with a rubber spatula turning it around in the bowl. Once it looked consistent I added 1/3 of corn starch plus 1 T baby oil and mixed again. Then did that 2 more times and it was ready to knead with some flour. It came out perfect and had no lumps because the TP fibers were never squeezed together. It was the best batch I ever made. Before I used to knead it for so long or spend an hr pulling apart the TP balls after squeezing. But it still had lumps. I’d bet even if I had a blender this would be an easy shortcut.

    Reply
  7. Hello. I have one more question about making an enlarged version of the cow mask. Is poster board stiff enough? I used up my cereal boxes in the first attempt. : )

    Theresa, Costume Mistress

    Reply
    • Poster board is very thin, and because of the shapes of the pieces, this pattern tries to flatten out when the paper mache is added. However, I think it will work. However, you might want to do it slightly backward from the way I did it for the instructions. Tape the brace piece on, and then stuff something inside the head to support the muzzle and brow. Add your paper mache over the head, covering the tape that’s holding the brace on. Let it dry. Test it to see if it feels strong enough to hold up on its own, without additional paper mache on the inside. If it feels a little too flimsy, leave the brace and stuffing in place and add another layer of paper mache. When it’s strong enough, use a razor blade to remove the tape so you can take off the brace and stuffing. I’m worried that adding wet paper mache on the inside could cause the paper mache on the outside to warp, but if you cover the inside first, it would be really difficult to support the outside shape of the head. I hope this makes sense – if not, let me know. 🙂

      Reply
  8. Hello. I purchased your cow mask pattern recently, for students on my costume crew to make. This will be part of a Milky White puppet for use in our production of Into the Woods. Unfortunately, now that the cow head is put together, it is too small for the body that was created. I am going to enlarge the pattern pieces, doubling them in size, and we will start over today. Is there anything I need to be aware of in enlarging this pattern? Do we need to do anything differently? Thanks!

    Theresa, Costume Mistress

    Reply
    • Hi Theresa. If you set your printer at 200% for all the pages, all the pieces should fit, and you can just follow the instructions like you did before. I hope you can find a good use for the one you already made! 🙂

      Reply
    • Hi Theresa, just wanted to reach out and say we’re building a ‘Milky White’ for our school play also! How is yours coming along? We’re about to get started…any advice? TIA!

      Reply
  9. Are you using an air dry clay with the head sculpture pattern?
    if so do you have to pull out the form to let the clay dry,
    or can the form stay under the clay without the clay cracking from shrinking when it dried?

    Reply
    • I haven’t used it with the air dry clay, but I have a project in mind that I hope to get started on soon. I think the form should have just enough bend to it to keep the air dry clay from cracking, but I can’t be sure. The clay will shrink as it dries, like all air dry clay will do, so it’s always possible to get some cracks.

      Reply
  10. Hello Jonni,
    I recently discovered your YouTube channel and your site and I really love your work and the different techniques! I’m definitely going to try some of these myself soon.
    I have a couple of questions:
    First of all: I see this beautiful hippo head hanging on your wall and have fallen completely in love with it! However, I can’t find that particular pattern on your site or channel. Is it to be somewhere?
    Secondly, I am lost in the translation a little regarding the ‘joint compound’. (I am Dutch)
    Because you also mention ‘plaster’ at other points, so they must be two different products. When I try to think of what it means specifically I just am not sure which is which. In Dutch I would translate both to ‘gips’ or ‘muurvuller’.
    ‘Gips’ is the stuff the plasterboard is made from. It’s the same as used in casts (broken leg or so).
    Is that what you mean by ‘joint compound’?
    Then: ‘muurvuller’ is the stuff you use whenever you want to fill up a hole or crack in the walls (no matter what that wall is made from, except wood, so could be concrete, plasterboard, stone). I did see one sort of this, that had in English ‘Instant Filler’ on it.
    So is this any different than what I described above? Or maybe even the same product?
    If not, can you help me out with this ‘ joint compound’?
    (Google translate doesn’t help, because it translates it literally into the two words ‘joint’ and ‘compound’.)

    Sorry for the long text, it’s hard to explain this problem.
    Hope to hear from you soon.
    Have a great day! Greetings from the Netherlands, Miranda

    Reply
    • Hi Miranda. What a coincidence – I’m working right now on a pattern for that hippo. The pattern itself was finished late last night, and now I have to write the instructions and make a video or two. I’ll let you know when it’s available. 🙂

      I have a page on the site where I ask for translations for the term drywall joint compound. It’s called “Voegenmiddel” in Dutch, according to one reader – but Elizabeth says the correct translation of joint compound in Dutch is gipsplaatvuller. It is not the same as plaster, because the premixed drywall joint compound, which is sold wet, in a plastic container, will get hard slowly, by drying. Plaster hardens by chemical action, in just a few minutes. In the end, I think it would be best to ask for advice from your local DIY store. Tell them you’re looking for the pre-mixed product that is used to fill in the cracks between two sheets of drywall. They’ll show you what you need. I found a Facebook page called Dutch Drywall Finishers, and the only part of it in English appears to be the title – but I didn’t log in so I don’t know if the page gives you the right word or not.

      Good luck finding what you need! And have fun with it, when you do. 🙂

      Reply
      • Dear Jonni,
        Thank you very much for your quick response!
        What a great coincidence indeed about the hippo!
        I can hardly wait!
        I’m not sure about the degrees of difficulty there is in these animals, but I like a challenge anyway, so I might end up making the hippo as my very first project with this technique!

        Also thank you for the extra explanation about the joint compound and the translation. I must have overlooked that translation part on your site.

        I will check out the mentioned Facebook group as well.

        When I find the correct product I will get back here to tell y’all about it, including the (then hopefully without any doubt) correct Dutch term.

        It is evening/nighttime over here, so I will be going to sleep soon.
        I hope I’ll have enough energy tomorrow to be checking all of the above mentioned issues. (Not the greatest of health situations going on here. Another reason to really like your techniques, because they are all intended to weight as little as possible).
        Thanks again, until another time, take care!

        Reply
  11. Question: I have constructed my 3rd owl. I made a mistake of making his body so big and heavy. He is standing on 2 skinny legs and a crutch. (He is a Gypsy Pirate OWL with a peg leg and crutch) So its not a lot of support for his hefty self.

    One of the crutches kept cracking at the base. I thought I had it fixed (I tried elmer’s glue too). So I applied the paint. And now it has cracked again.

    I thought about digging that cracked spot out so I could get new paper mache in it, but using the Titebond III glue instead of the traditional papermache method. The crack is about 3/4 inch long. I’m afraid the crack is still going to make its way back.

    Any thoughts on how I can end this crack for good?

    I am new to your site and just love all the things you make and help you give. Thank you!

    Reply
  12. Hi Jonni! I absolutely love the Ursa Manor bear head I posted last year. Now I’m wanting to make one with an open mouth! I need some help on ideas on how to modify the bear armature. I’ve contemplated seeing if I can use the jaw of the hyena mask, but thought I’d post here first and see if someone has tried it already. I’d like to make it into a grizzly, but that may need more… modifications. Maybe I’m a bit over ambitious. Lol! I just love how the bear turned out so much, I have to try it again. Any advice or ideas on how to make it happen, would be appreciated. Keep Crafting!

    Reply
    • Hi Talia. I haven’t tried giving the bear and open mouth, but just by coincidence I recently received an email by someone who did just that – and it came out really nice! I hope she’ll share some photos as soon as she finishes painting it. I don’t know if the hyena mask would help with the bear because they’re not exactly the same size, but it’s possible that you could use that idea of making the bottom jaw as a separate piece, and add some extra cardboard to act as a hinge at the back. If you put as much detail into your new bear as you did the first one, I know it’s going to look great. 🙂

      Reply
  13. Hi Jonni
    Just wondering if you have a pattern for the small free standing spotted pig
    which I just love.Love your work and videos
    Gail from OZ

    Reply
      • Dear Jonni The rain here has been incessant and the weather very cool here unusually for the North coast of NSW in Australia
        Thanks so much for your reply especially as it is the Christmas madness period. I have made my pig head but it is a bit floppy. I covered the pattern with adhesive book covering front and back as I couldn’t understand the step saying stick the pattern on the cardboard and then remove it. So I then covered it all with masking tape to make a surface for the paper mache clay to adhere to. I have probably made a rod for my own back!! I am now wondering which paper mache covering to cover it with. I don’t have elmers glue but have some white PVA to use. I do have flour of course. I am just going to attempt the features with the aluminium foil.Will send a pic when I work it all out.
        Gail

        Reply
        • Hi Gail, I too am in Oz and used Boral joint compound in the recipe. The first time I used it I didn’t use the flours or the oil. This time I followed the Ultimate paper Clay recipe. It turned to a rubbery clay. Totally useless really. How did your recipe turn out and what joint compound did you use?

          Many thanks.

          Reply
  14. Hi Jonni,
    I’m up to the point of adding the wooden beads for the eyes in your bear head. Do I insert them from the front or the back of the eye holes?

    Reply
  15. I once saw a wood carved bear cub that lays straddled over a fence post.. I wanted one to put on the head post of our log bed in our cottage, but the carved wood one was really expensive. I saw your bear head and thought I’d try making that and adding a body. Hoping it will turn out cute.

    Reply
  16. Hi I need help to make a medieval type dragon, crouched with wings….I though of using your fab giraffe head as base for dragon head – but what do you think I could use for the body? Its for our next production of Magic Flute 🙂

    Reply
    • Hi Annette. I actually made a dragon once, with a head based on the basic shapes of a giraffe. The giraffe head pattern hadn’t been made yet – and the armature I built was way too heavy and clunky! You can see me messing around with it in this video. It did come out nice, though. 🙂

      If I did it again I’d make an interior pattern, just like I do for all my animal sculptures. And I’d use some heavy cardboard for the pattern instead of all the lumber I wasted inside my dragon. You can see how I make the patterns here. Then I’d fill in the shapes with either crumpled paper and masking tape, bubble wrap, or crumpled foil and hot glue. Finish with paper mache. I hope you’ll show us your dragon when it’s done!

      Reply
  17. Hallo I want to make a Girl christmas elf,Can someone please give me advice on how to make two blonde paper mache hair plaits?My soon to be foster daughter decided on the description. And i dont want to disappoint her

    Reply
    • Hi Arnia. You could crumple three long pieces of aluminum foil into ropes, and braid them. Then add paper mache and paint. That’s the first thing that came to my mind – perhaps someone else has a better idea. How big is your elf going to be?

      Reply
      • Thank you for your awesome idea,My elves are about 1metre high,although the Girl will be standing and the boys are in different sitting positions.I am having a tough time getting Drywall joint compound here,dont know if its me that cant find the correct name or Country itself,haha.Tried making the clay last night without it but its seems to look very clumpy,so i dont know if I could have done something better 🙂

        Reply
        • I know the joint compound is difficult to find in a lot of other countries, where houses are built with different materials than here in the US. However, I think you do need something to replace the joint compound in order for the recipe to work. If you leave it out, it will be very different – but if you use just paper pulp and either glue or a flour and water paste, you would have a more traditional form of paper mache.

          I tried using plaster of Paris in place of the joint compound, and it worked, although you don’t have as much time to sculpt with it because it will stiffen up in a few hours. It dries very hard, though, and the final sculpture is just as nice as one made with the original recipe. You can find that video here: https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-made-with-plaster-of-paris

          Reply
  18. New to paper mache. Im working on a Snoopy and a Woodstock, I forgot to put snoopy’s ears on before I put paper clay on him can i still paper mache them on?

    Reply
    • Yes, you can still put them on. You’ll probably need to let the paper mache clay dry, then use some masking tape to attach the ears. Put a thin layer of the paper mache clay over the tape and the lower part of the ears, and let it dry again. Then the ears will be firmly attached and you can continue adding more clay on the top part without the weight pulling the ears off his head. Have fun! 🙂

      Reply
    • No, I don’t. But if you put “giraffe” in the search bar on this site, you’ll see that my head pattern has been used by a lot of people to make big four-legged giraffes, with the body armatures based on their own patterns. Lezlei even wrote a tutorial for us, to let us see how she and her husband made a giraffe for her local Vacation Bible School. You can see her tutorial here.

      Reply

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