Daily Sculptors Page

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14,854 thoughts on “Daily Sculptors Group Page”

  1. Hello!
    I wanted to ask, could you use the paper mache clay on a balloon? What would happen, when you pop the balloon? Would the paper mache clay crack or break?
    Warmest regards,

    • Hi Silver. I don’t think the paper mache clay will stick to rubber. If you did get it to stick, the damp clay would make the air inside the balloon colder, the balloon would shrink a little, and your paper mache clay would get wrinkly. If it dried all the way through, including the inside edge that sits against the balloon, it shouldn’t break when the balloon is popped, but if there’s any moisture left in it at all it would deflate with the balloon.

      Balloons are really hard to use with any form of paper mache. I know they do it in grade school, but I haven’t had any luck with balloons. The one way I can get it to work is to put a layer of plaster cloth on the balloon first. The plaster cloth gets hard in just a few minutes, and then the paper mache clay can be added to make it smooth. The combination is really strong, and the balloon can’t cause any problems when it’s removed.

      Have fun!

  2. I’ve viewed your video of paper mache’ “without” joint compound. I’d like to know the opposite: paper mache’ WITH joint compound. Is there a video I missed?
    I’m trying to get a video made for you, as requested, for my ‘industrial-strength’ paper mache’ sheets. I will send you a sample if I may have your physical mailing address….and permission to use it.

  3. Hi I am making the little pig face and I am at the point of putting the glaze on. Do I put it all over or just randomly ? Excited to finish him. He will be hung at a feed mill where they sell the pig feed.

    • What fun! If you have time to send a photo of your pig after he’s installed at the feed mill, we’d love to see it. Just click the big red button at the top of this page to show it off.

      The glaze can be use wherever you want it. I tend to brush it over the entire piece and then wipe it back off. Using a dry paper towel will leave more glaze than a wet towel, which removed all the glaze except for in wrinkles and dips. It’s really up to you. 🙂

  4. My gosh!! I am so impressed and inspired by all talent and creativity displayed here!! Great activities to try during stay-home times! THANK YOU to all of you for sharing your experiences!

  5. Hello! I love your work!!

    I will like to know what do you use or what i can use so as a varnish for using paper mache clay for doing food containers??
    If you have a sustaintable idea it would be so much better

    Thank you so much!

    • The paper mache clay is not waterproof, so you could only use it for fruit or nuts so it never has to be put in the sink or dishwasher. They make special products for wood cutting boards that might work.

  6. Jonni, I submitted my three lambs about a week ago. Did they come through? or do I need to learn how to do it properly? I clicked on the “show us your art work” button and think I pushed submit. I’m trying to catch up on the changes! lol. Thanks.

    • Hi Rex. I searched for it, but your lambs didn’t get through. I always get an email when someone uploads photos, and I didn’t get that, either. Hmm – I have no idea what went wrong. If you’d like to try again, that would be great – I’ll keep an eye out for the lambs.

  7. Quick question for you. Do you think dipping or pouring an acrylic resin over a paper mache sculpture would work to strengthen or even waterproof a paper mache sculpture? Have you or anybody else tried it?

    • I haven’t tried it, but it sounds like a promising idea to experiment with. A lot of foam sculptors use Epsilon, a Smooth-On product for hard-coating the foam, and I hope to play with it sometime this year. With any paper sculpture, the biggest worry I have is that even a pinhole is enough to let water in and ruin the paper underneath. But a two-part epoxy may be hard enough to prevent that from happening.

    • That sounds interesting, although I have no idea what acrylic resin is! If it works, I might have to get educated! Thanks.

      • Hi Rex, have you ever seen a painting that has a super shiny and super smooth finish? Most likely it has an acrylic resin poured over it. It is cool, you have to mix an epoxy with a hardener and then pour it over the piece. It self levels on a painting but that wouldn’t work on a sculpture. I am just curious to see if anyone has tried it on paper mache. It could really strengthen a piece so those fine little details won’t break off or even make it waterproof. I may try it this summer just to see. I’ll keep you posted.

        • Eileen, I just remembered that Karen told us that she intends to do a resin pour on her Doberman. That was a few weeks ago, and we haven’t heard back from her yet. I’m really anxious to see how that comes out – my daughter did some resin pour paintings (flat ones, of course) and they turned out really nice. I can’t quite imagine how it will work on a sculpture, though – but I hope we get a chance to find out. For most of us, a two-part brush-on resin would probably work better.

          I even thought about trying it on my Basset Hound, to give him a ceramic look. But maybe I should start off with something that I haven’t spent so much time on, just in case I don’t like it. And I’ll definitely wait until we get a chance to see how your experiments come out. 🙂

          • Jonni, You can give your Basset Hound a ceramic look much more easily, as long as it doesn’t have to be waterproof. I’m a huge fan of Rust-Oleum’s “Triple Thick Glaze”. It’s a spray paint that can be used on all sorts of surfaces: wood, paper, metal, glass, ceramic, plastic, paper mache, etc. You generally have to give it a couple coats but it ends up looking just like glass. I used it on some faux agates I made and at first glance, you can’t tell the difference. The surface of one of them got damaged, and all I had to do was sand it with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, wipe the dust off and respray. (I have photos of a real one and the faux one, but don’t see a spot in this reply form to upload.)

    • I suspect resin will take to long to set up. Google the brand you want to use and check the dry times. I would assume the paper mache would soften and colaspe dispute armature but I’m fairly new to to paper mache.
      From the haunter groups I’ve been learning & watching , many use a clear seal like seal krete. Look for unhinged productions on you tube, he does a lot of paper mache work for out side.

    • I have coated things in two pot expoxy before instead of using glaze (my first ceramic pieces). Pieces that were left outside eventually went yellow and slightly opaque. It took years but direct sunlight will discolour expoxy eventually.

    • Yes, I believe it does. They’re both PVA glue. Do try a small amount mixed with a bit of the joint compound first. If it stays the consistency you’d expect, it’s fine. If it balls up or gets rubbery, it won’t work – but I’m sure I tried it once, and it was OK.

  8. I finished my Tiger bust today well almost it is awaiting it’s real animal whiskers . The gorilla bust for the zoo is making progress too . I wanted to add a picture but I don’t see the option to do so .

    Have a great Day everyone

  9. Hi Everyone

    I wondered if anyone has had any experience piping with air dry clay recipes. I have tried (mostly flowers) and it is either to wet and doesn’t hold its shape or too dry and impossible to pipe.
    Could you possibly mix it with something else to make it lighter?

    Any advice greatly appreciated.


    • Hi Vanessa. I’m glad you posted your question here, because I don’t know the answer – I really hope one of our other readers can give you some good tips. 🙂

    • I used cold porcelain for the faces of my characters of nativity scene.
      cold porcelain is reputed to have a strong index of retraction.
      but by applying it on aluminum foil, it worked.
      maybe it’s a track?

    • Hi Vanessa,

      You might consider these products for what you are looking to do. I know they are not inexpensive, but they might work for you. I believe the Golden brand also has similar products, but I have only used the Liquitex brand ones. (Descriptions below from their website.)

      Liquitex Professional Modeling Paste: “Acrylic and marble putty to build texture on rigid supports* and create 3D forms.”

      Liquitex Professional Light Modeling Paste: “An airy, lightweight acrylic and marble putty to build heavy texture and 3D forms in situations where weight is a factor.”

      *If applying to flexible surface, use Liquitex Flexible Modeling Paste instead.

      Good luck!

      • Hi Martina,
        My paper clay mix already has joint compound in the recipe as per Jonni’s tutorial. It is too heavy.

    • Vanessa have you tried coffee filters dipped in cornstarch glue etc mixture ?? it’s super light and when wet bendable . If you haven’t I find the receipe I made mine with for a thin cast on a figure I have . It worked really well

        • Piping is squeezing a substance (like icing for a cake) through a cloth funnel that ends in a shaped tip. Depending on your skill and the shape of the tip, you can build up flowers or draw lines or make designs….PIPING!

    • If your a paper mache purist this likely won’t help.
      For pure mache, your going to have to hand build each flower let dry and apply.
      I’ve never heard of extruding paper mache or paper clay.
      I can tell you from my clay working days, extruding anything takes a lot of pressure.
      Since u didn’t have a visual on what your doing I’ll try to give you a visual through text. Assuming your creating a design much like the piping on a wedding cake and you intend to paint it.
      Hand build each flower with paper clay, one petal at a time & set each petal in a glob of PL premium on your project ( create a mound of PL premium adhesive much like the shape of a Hershey kiss). Or you could carve your flowers out of foam. Either spray foam or insulation foam.
      Any other piping like the frosting scallops on a cake, you could pipe a cheap latex caulk.
      One other solution, buy much more time intensive would be to run pipe cleaners or other wire through mache glue ( I haven’t tried it yet, but I’m planning on creating pumpkin vines that are almost art nouveau like. This is what I’m trying with as a solution.

  10. Hi Everyone!

    I’m intending to build a life sized pony, with a metal skeleton, so it can be sat on; I might even make it into some kind of rocking horse, if my metal worker can manage it. It’s a mad project, I know, but I’ve been thinking about it for years, and seeing your work has really given me the push to get started!

    I was intending to use chicken wire, but I think the cardboard method might make it easier for my metal guy to get the skeleton the right shape, especially the legs, as I want it to be galloping; the pose I want has one front leg in the air (I just love to make things difficult for myself, lol).

    If anyone has any tips or ideas, I’d love to hear them and would be very grateful x

    • Hi, my name is Alan from Racine, WI. Joni asked me to reply to you. I make metal art. Basically what I do is find a image to scale off from. A 3D toy works best. What I do is buy some 1/4 rod start shaping the body, legs and head. Then I weld them together. I can get a feel if that is the size I want. Then I start filling in with some lighter rod so that the legs and body are round. At this point some half inch steel rod can be welded on the inside to give it strength. After that I start to form and weld on pieces of light sheet metal. It is a lot of work and expensive. I did a dinosaur but with out the sheet metal; just wire frame. Then they stuffed it with peat moss and tried to grow plants in it. Good luck.

      • Thank you very much, Alan and Jonni, for your support! Your dinosaur sounds amazing!

        I’m only having the internal skeleton made of metal, the ‘skin’ of the horse will be paper mache; probably strips first, then a paper clay for the features, so I’m hoping it won’t be too difficult or expensive.

        I’m meeting my metal worker tomorrow (my ex actually, a lovely man, so I’m very lucky!) so we can have a chat and draw up some plans; I’m so excited! I’ve managed to buy a real saddle very cheaply, as it’s not useable for actual riding, so I’ll be making my horse to fit it (roughly at least, thank goodness I don’t have to worry about sore backs 😀 )

        Maybe I should write it up, as no-one’s really documented doing anything similar (I know, I have trawled the net for tips!)?

        • I haven’t attempted anything this ambitious, but it seems if you are going to have someone sit on it the barrel/stomach/back of the horse need to be reinforced, maybe with multiple layers of chicken wire stuffed with newspaper, to keep tiny legs from crushing the paper mache. Or, if you can track down some of the metal rings off of wine barrels, maybe those could work.

      • Alan, we would love to see your metal sculptures. If you’d like to share a photo or two, you can do that here on this page (hit the big yellow button at the top). I know they aren’t paper mache, but we still want to see them. 🙂

  11. Hello! I’m a new fan! I teach art and am loving your paper mache clay. How long does it typically last? I’m finding it doesn’t remain workable for very long and I’m wondering if I might be doing something wrong.
    Thank you!

    • Hi Naomi. It will last longer if you keep it tightly covered and stick in the ‘fridge. But when you say it doesn’t remain workable, do you mean it’s drying out?

      • Hello Jonni,
        Thank you so much for your response!
        Yes, I did mean that it dried out quickly–however, since my first message, I tried the recipe version that uses baby oil and cornstarch, and it seemed to stay moist and workable much longer (we used it all up within 24 hours).

        I am still curious how long it would last, if I couldn’t use it all up so quickly.

        Also, thank you for your website and the information you share so freely!


        • Hi Naomi. If you put the paper mache clay in an air-tight container it should last for a week or so. It will last longer in the refrigerator, and almost indefinitely in the freezer.

          It’s interesting that your air dry clay batch dried more slowly than the paper mache clay – I don’t think I’ve noticed that happening, but I do use up each one pretty fast when I’m working on a project. Has anyone else had that same experience?

    • If you are talking about the clay, that is one thing. If you are talking about the sculpture, that is another. I have seen paper mache sculptures that are hundreds of years old. Some cost thousands of dollars.

      If you’re talking about clay, I have been experimenting with “keeping it good” for years. Last summer my sister wanted to try paper mache and asked me to make a batch of clay with her. We did. Two months later I went back and it was sitting in the same spot. I knew it would be rotten, but it wasn’t at all. I bought me some glass containers that seal really well, and it has helped a lot in keeping the clay usable. The air dry clay dries quickly, so I keep it in a container and pull out a bit and put it in a plastic bag while I use it. Keeping it refrigerated helps, I think.

      Having said all that, as clay ages, it is more difficult to work with.

      Good luck. It is a process.

  12. Jonni, how thick would you say you layer on the clay mixture on your giraffe before painting? Just curious. If I add glass that will be at least 1/8” and I will probably add a bit more reinforcement under it. I opted to do most of my reinforcing inside the head so that I wouldn’t add too much depth to the outside.

    Thank, Sharon

    • Hi Sharon. I applied the paper mache clay almost paper thin on the giraffe, but you can apply more if you need to. And if you use it as the grout between pieces of glass, that would help reinforce it, too. At least I think it would – I’ve never done any mosaics myself. Be sure to do some test pieces on scrap cardboard first.

      • Well, I’m going to use thinset to add a thin base layer or I could have used the paper mache, but a thin layer of thinset and fiberglass mesh will help strengthen it a bit more.. Once that dries, I will just use a pvc glue to glue my glass pieces and then I will grout, probably with regular grouting material. I could use thinset as both my adhesive and grout, but that’s not favorite way to do things. This one isn’t going outside, so, I am just going to use the pvc glue. I learned a lot from putting the first one together and was trying to think ahead to it going outside, but I felt like there were better ways to address things. So, I will make another one to go outside sometime.

  13. Hi everyone thought I check in since I have not in months . I haven’t finished the tiger head yet . Was extremely busy in the holiday season before that trip to Germany ( it was awesome ) The other night I had my friends grand children over for craft night the little girl, Emilia is really really into it . We started a tree stump play house for all her little critters she has created with her polimer clay , they are oh so cute . Andrew opted to make a crow OMG I had a plastic bird that I picked up during halloween he turned it into Crow 666 . Now the big news I met with the Zoo staff yesterday I be sculpting one of their gorillas they recently lost of old age. That is it for now . I hope you all had a great start into the New Year

      • Hola me gustaría seguir con ustedes ya que me encanta hacer escultura de papel maché, pronto les mandaré foto de un toro de Lidia que realicé hace dos años, me gustaría estar en contacto con ustedes para seguir motivada y hacer más esculturas de papel mache, muchas gracias por leerme reciban un saludo y un abrazo

  14. Joyce, your poem is gorgeous. Wish I had written it. I am so sorry about your health issues. I know you’ve been dealing with this for quite a while now. I would make you all better if I could. We need you to be healthy and happy and creating more beautiful works of art.

    Jonni, I am loving the basset hound videos. Can’t wait for more. Especially the face one. Please make that one as long as humanly possible! : ) There are so many great suggestions about what to create. I want to see them all, but Thank You for doing the basset.

    • Thank you so much Mister Shelbot, for your kind words. I am always glad to see a post from you .. I am pleased that I still have the ability to rhyme, but do wish I could get my hands creating. Soon, maybe.

  15. Jonni, because of so many health issues this past year, I haven’t created anything except for the odd poem,. The one I’ve posted here i wrote many years ago and just came across it recently and since it is about art I thought you and your readers might enjoy it.

    Your UPM site is my go-to place for seeing works of art and reading the comments of other viewers.

    I endeavour as an artist
    To paint the way I see
    The little things, the special things,
    That mean so much to me.

    The endearing smile of a happy child,
    The lines on a time worn face.
    The weathered wood of a rustic fence,
    The intricacies of lace.

    I glory in nature’s palette,
    The reds , the gold, the blues,
    The cool greens of springtime,
    And autumn’s radiant hues.

    Abstractions do not interest me,
    Nor vistas stretching wide,
    Instead I search secluded spots,
    Where tiny treasures hide.

    And so I try, with paint and brush
    So that others too may see,
    The little things, the special things,
    That mean so much to me.


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