Daily Sculptors Page

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14,783 thoughts on “Daily Sculptors Group Page”

  1. Thank you for such a quick reply! I got the head one, not the sculpture. It’s about 15 pages total that I need to enlarge 4 times it actual size. I looked online for printing services it wasn’t budget friendly! ?.

      • Well, something really bad happened that turned into something really good! My computer broke yesterday, totally dead! It was an old computer and it needed to be replaced (eventually! ) so costco had a great deal on a new laptop that was exactly what I needed! Got home, set it up, open Adobe reader to keep trying to figure the pattern situation out and ta da! The print dialog allows me to do what I had seen online about enlarging image and printing poster option etc! So I was able to print it 300%! Several pages, but it was soooo worth it! Thank you all! Will come back with the picture of the finished project! I am so excited!

  2. I am working on giraffe and wondered whether I was supposed to bend along the dotted line of 15 and 16, cheeks and jawline.

  3. I am working on the giraffe head pattern. When taping the eyelids on, do you just follow the edge of piece 7 or do you tape the end to the part that has the dotted line for the bend.

  4. Hello All!
    First of all, Jonni I love your website, it has given me so many ideas and options. Second, I am a high school 3-D art teacher and I always do a paper mache project with my students. I believe the “no flour” recipe will be best for me since my classroom and living in Florida has its devastation with mold!!! BIG ISSUE! I was wondering if newspaper could be used in a larger scale recipe (its cheaper for the 6 classes I have). It is readily available and FREE! I do have some donated blenders and food processors for my art room. Any ideas, suggestions and dos and don’t? I would appreciate any advice!

    • Hi Michelle. Newspaper does work just fine in the original paper mache clay, so it should work with the “no flour” version, too. Just soak it longer, so the fibers can come apart. If you make a really big batch, you can use a paint mixer attachment on a portable drill instead of the kitchen mixer. Large amounts are heavy and can put too much stress on the smaller motor in a kitchen appliance. A larger food processor should work well for chopping up the paper. But I am kind of making some of this up, because I haven’t used flour-less recipe with newspaper yet. If you try it, please let us know how it works out. And if your students would like to show off their finished sculptures, they’re welcome to upload a photo or two – by hitting the big yellow button at the top of this page. 🙂

      • Thank you so much! Yes after I sent the message I thought about the paint mixer which I have for my glazes. We are all excited about this project. Thank you again! I will definitely keep you informed of our progress!

  5. Dear Jonni,

    Happy New Year!

    I’m Jun from the Philippines teaching music & drama in Clifford International School, Guangzhou, China. We are planning to do the Lion King this year and I’m interested in your paper mache patterns. Is it possible for you to give the school a discount in getting a lot of your animal mask patterns?

    Hoping for your immediate response on this regard.

    Have a nice day.

    Jun Monzon

    • Hi Jun – I worked all day to make it possible to offer a discount for larger orders. You’re the first one I’ve told, but now if you make a purchase over $30 US, you can use discount code 15%OffOver30 for 15% off the order.

      Tomorrow I’ll try to figure out how to put a note on each page letting people know. I seem to get slower with this technology stuff every year… 🙂

  6. Hi my name is Wendi Larson.
    I work for the Otsego Public Schools in Otsego Michigan. I am in charge of our reading month this year and I am wanting to make a Hippo.:)
    I found your hippo mask on line and was thinking I would try. Could you please send me copy of the pattern of your mask you were using or if I could buy.
    Thank you soo very much!
    Have a great day and thank you for your time.
    Wendi Larson

    • Hi Wendy. I didn’t make a pattern of the hippo – I made it long before I started making mask patterns. You can make one by creating a clay model and then covering it with paper mache, like I did in this video. The shapes would be totally different, of course, but that’s how I usually make masks when I only need one of them. Have fun with it!

  7. Jonni,

    I have a beautiful nativity set made of paper mache. The faces and hands are ceramic but the clothes are paper. It showing some wear and tear and the paper needs to be repaired on a couple of pieces. Have you had any luck with repairing? Any suggestions? The pieces are large – the tallest is about 3.5 foot high. Thanks in advance.

    • Hi Darlene. I’m not an expert in paper mache repair, but I can offer a few suggestions. If your nativity set is a valuable antique, though, you might want to contact your local art museum and see if there’s a real expert in your town who would do the restoration for you.

      That said, here’s what I would do: tear some pieces of newspaper and paste them to the back side of the clothing, if you have access to that area. I would use Titebond III wood glue. It dries slightly yellow, but it won’t cause the paint to crackly like Elmer’s Glue-All does. The glue shouldn’t cause the old paper mache to soften, like a water-based paste would. If you can’t get to the back side of the clothing, put the new paper mache on the outside. Make sure you tear all the edges so you don’t have any sharp cut edges that will show on the finished piece. When the glue is dry, give the new paper mache a coat of acrylic gesso, and then match the colors of the original with acrylic paint. When the paint is dry, protect the piece with a coat of matte acrylic varnish. Matching the original colors will probably be the most challenging part of the project.

      I hope someone who has actually restored old paper mache will see your post and offer some more advice. Good luck with it!

        • Hello!
          I’m in need of urgent help!
          I’ve purchased the baby elephant mark pattern and I’m trying to enlarge it since I need to make a very large elephant for my daughter’s dance studio (they need it for an Aladdin showcase) since I can’t edit the pdf some of the tutorials I’ve seen won’t work! Do you know any way I can enlarge this at 200%?
          Thank you so much in advance

          • Hi Jenny. Which elephant pattern are you working on? The wall sculpture elephant, the one with just the head, can be printed larger at your local print shop, on larger paper. There is no need to edit the PDF. A lot of people have done that. For the standing elephant, which is very large, you would want to trace out the pattern on a big piece of cardboard, using a grid. If I misunderstood your problem, please let me know and I’ll try to help.

  8. I am a mosaic artist. I love Jonni’s sculptures and wanted to somehow incorporate them into my glass art. Is anyone out here a mosaic artist? I have thought about using spray foam on the hollow inside to strengthen after putting the pieces together, but not sure if that would push the sculpture apart. I have just recently received a small box of Pal tiya to try, too. I know that can go over foil, but don’t think I could get that thin enough without causing structures issues, as well. Maybe one layer of plaster wraps could help reinforce before inserting spray foam. Does anyone here have experience using these sculptures with glass? If so, what have you used successfully?

    Thanks, Sharon

    • Sharon, I am not a mosaic artist and am not quite sure what you are asking but Kim Beaton, who developed Pal Tiya, did a mosaic like project with Pal Tiya, if you haven’t already done so, go onto the Pal Tiya website or you tube to see some of her incredible videos. Your won’t regret it!
      Were you thinking of using the paper clay instead of the grout like substance that one sees on mosaics? Are you afraid the weight of the glass would collapse the sculpture? If so, a tin foil armature would work well if you compressed the foil in hard enough. If it is tough enough to withstand a cement like substance like Pal Tiya,, it would be strong enough to hold the glass. I guess it would also depend on the size of the project Good luck and let us know how you fare!

      • I M just concerned that something wet and too heavy would collapse the structure. It I wonder how Jonni’s material keeps from doing that as well. And is am somewhat familiar with how pal tiya is supposed to work, but haven’t used it yet. Still mulling my options over.

        • Hi Sharon. I’ll jump in and mention that I always use the paper mache clay or the smooth air dry clay in thin layers, and I make sure the underlying structure is strong enough to hold up the sculpture. Eileen will probably have more to say about this, too, because she uses both Pal Tiya and the recipes on this site. 🙂

    I’m about to do a diorama project as a gift to my daughter…what do i seal the project with Once the paper mache is dry and painted?!!
    Thanks in advance!!

  10. Hi Jonnie,
    I’ve just begun working with paper clay and I’m a little confused.
    I made your silky smooth air dry clay recipe and I just love it! It’s strong and easy to work with.
    My confusion lies with the difference between the silky smooth air dry clay and your paper mache clay. The only difference I see is that the air dry clay adds corn starch.
    If I want to make a sculpted piece, which one do I use? Is there a preference, and if so, why?

    • Hi Norma. A lot of people like to use the original paper mache clay as a thin layer first, and let it dry. Then they have a solid base for their finer details, which are easier to sculpt with the air dry clay. I often use the original PM clay alone, with slightly less flour than the recipe calls for, so I can use it in a very thin layer, without adding any of the air dry clay details. It’s just a matter of finding the materials you most enjoy using. The original recipe is much stickier than the air dry clay, which makes it faster to spread over an armature with a knife. I hope that helps – 🙂

  11. I’m thinking about trying Magic Metallic with a patina for the first time. The directions say to stop the patina process by applying a matte sealer. Can I use my matte acrylic varnish for this or is there a special product they are referring to? Will I apply it when the patina is wet? Thanks!

    • Hi Pam. I haven’t used that brand, but when I use the Sculpt Nouveau metalic paint, the acrylic varnish is used after the patina is dry. The varnish will prevent the humidity and oxygen in the air from gradually changing the color.

      • Not necessarily a need to do it when it is dry, sculpt nouveau also says in order to stop the patina from oxidizing, spray with the varnish while wet, about a half hour after applying the patina. It could only be done with a spray varnish though, not the brush on kind.
        I have not used Magic Metallic either but I think they might have a website or number you could call for the answer. Artsy types are super helpful! Good luck!

  12. Hi Jonni,

    I can’t upload my Photos… It says: ‘You are not allowed to access this address.’
    What can I do?

    • Hi Maike. I put in a support ticket to the folks who made the form for me. I seem to be the only one who can currently use it, I’m afraid – but it should be fixed soon. I’ll let you know when the form is working correctly, so you can try again. I’d really love to see what you tried to show us!

      • Thanx for your answer! I’ve tried it again and now I succeeded! Just added one picture, but I’ll post two more messages for the other pictures.

    • Hi Maike. The tech support fellow fixed the form, and you can now use it to upload your photo and to show us your sculpture. I hope you’ll give it another try, because we’d really like to see what you made. Thanks for your patience! 🙂

  13. Can you tell me how hard the paste will get ..I thinking on putting it on a bike frame ..I want to used it like Bondo.

    • Hi David. Do you mean the paper mache clay? It dries about as hard as the same thickness as plastic, but it isn’t waterproof and it shrinks slightly as it dries. I’m not sure it will stick to a metal pipe without cracking. Have you considered using Apoxie Sculpt instead? It’s an epoxy product, like Bondo, but it gives you at least an hour to shape and sculpt it before it gets too hard. It sticks to almost anything, doesn’t shrink when it dries, and it’s naturally waterproof. I’m not trying to talk you out of experimenting with paper mache clay, but for some purposes there are other products that might give better results.

  14. Hi everyone. I just installed a new system that will make it easier to post your photos on UPM. No image editing required!

    I need some folks to test it for me, so if you’ve just finished a paper mache mask or sculpture* please check out the new form. There’s a link to it at the top of the Daily Sculptors page.

    *… or stained glass, or watercolor painting or whatever – if it’s art and you made it, we want to see it. 🙂

  15. Here is my first attempt I learned a lot and will be making another with skinnier legs. And figured out how to make the clay smoother. Rudolph is my favorite

  16. I made a tree some years ago. Life size trunk with some branches as a kind of land mark in the hallway of a care home. J did not consider this paper mache as I used cement. But now Jonni is using the same stuff I had so that kinda makes it legit ‘paper’ mache even though the only paper used was to make the sketch.

    The process was pretty standard but the scale required some adaptations. The trunk could not be transported in one piece so I made id detachable. The branches had slots and the trunk consists of three separate parts. I sculpted it as one trunk but made sure I did not let is cure connected.

    For this I made an armature that would fit around the corner of an indoor wall. It looked much like a stackable book case. Really airy but sturdy. Then I covered every part with chicken wire. Now I had 3/4 of transparent trunk.

    The next phase was to cover it. For that I dipped burlap (really cheaper is better in this) in a rather wet cement mixture. It just applies as plaster bandages except that the sheer size required some major elbow grease. The chicken wire did buckle a bit under the weight so I needed to ad some old news paper inside the trunk to support the shape. Not a real problem as 1/4 is open. The next day I mixed up some slurry (Cement water mixture) a bit thicker than the day before. With that I coated the trunk about half an inch thick. This I let rest for a while to let it firm up. After a while you have an almost Magic sand like consistency that is easy to carve. I mixed up a batch for every part of the trunk but in hindsight I could have done the whole trunk. Carving time is at least half a day I would guesstimate.

    After I finished the carving and smoothing out of some parts I covered it all in plastic. Cement needs water to cure. And as the surface area is rather big (inside and outside) there was a chance the cement would dry out rather than cure and that would result in cracks and flaking.

    I gave it a good few days to cure and dry and did the painting. The texture of the cement I deliberately left a bit course yo get a natural bark feel to it.

    The branches are adorned with some lovely branches with leaves. Had to special order those because they had to come with a fire safety certificate. Still only 4 bucks a pop.

    Oh. Interesting detail The hole in the trunk has an additional function. Through there I can reach the bolts with witch the trunk is secured to the wall. It’s mot going anywhere.

    • What a fantastic sculpture – everyone who walks by must smile when they see it. Thank you so much for the detailed explanation of how it was built, as well. The squirrel is a friendly addition, but it’s that bark texture that I’m excited about. Very nice!

      Many people ask about creating tree trunks (or entire trees) to place in their homes. Your method has the distinct advantage on not containing paper, which could be a big fire hazard in a child’s room or school room.

    • Henk, that is great. Now my sister wants me to make her a tree like that. Not sure I’m up to it, but it is great. Fantastic. Thanks.

      • If you have any experience with paper mache the technical side of things should be easy. But yeah the size is pretty daunting. Good luck and thanks. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

  17. Gosh Kat, this is a tough one. Try checking on Etsy and see what general pricing is there for similar sculptures. I saw some that were similar to yours(fabulous by the way!) and they were charging $33-$53. You could also go to local craft shows to see if there were similar items for sale. Jonni once said something years ago that made a lot of sense….price items in such a way that you would be more satisfied with the money than with having it in your possession. Good luck, let us know how things go!

  18. I would love everyone’s input as to pricI guess on these Nisse/House Gnomes!
    I just have to wait for the beards to dry, then paint & antique them. (As before, they will be coming with a ‘Certificate of Gnome Fostering’ and info on how to care for their gnome…). Their hats and coats are all different from each other.
    Thanks to all!

    • Hi Kat. I agree with everything Eileen said. I’ll add a few more details that might also be helpful.

      First, time yourself at least once to see how much labor goes into each gnome (they are really cute 🙂 ). Make sure your new business can pay a decent hourly wage unless you’re just trying to make enough money to buy more art supplies.

      Second, determine how you’ll ship the gnomes and how much it will cost. Boxes, bubble wrap, labels and UPS charges add up fast. If you sell locally, of course, you won’t have to worry about shipping.

      Third, start looking into ways to market your gnomes. A local art fair would be a great way to do it, because people could see your gnomes up close and fall in love with them. Selling art online will be much more difficult because you’ll have lots of competition, including mass-produced gnomes from overseas.

      Good luck with it!

      • Hello,
        I would like a pattern for a Pembroke Welch Corgi, Miniature Dacshund, and a
        Very petite, miniature Yorkie.

        If you don’t mind giving me the cost first. I would appreciate it.

        I love your work.

        Kindest regards,

        • Hi Melissa. I don’t create patterns by commission, because they take at least a month to make each one, and I already have a very long list on my to-do list. However, you might want to take a look at my book How to make Tiny Paper Mache Dogs. The patterns in the book include a Welch Corgi, a Yorkie and a Dachshund. As you can tell from the title of the book, they’re for very small sculptures, but they could be made larger.


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