Paper Mache Tutorials

Some of the tutorials on this site are shown below – but there are many more. (At last count, there were 400+ tutorials, with more coming all the time). To see all the paper mache tutorials on the blog, click here. And to see all of the other posts on this site (over 200 and counting) click here. You can also download the free Practical Paper Mache ebook, which was created by readers of this blog, here.

Paper Mache Clay Tutorials

Paper Mache Clay Frog:

Paper Mache Clay Frog

Paper Mache Clay Frog

Paper Mache Clay Butterflies:

Paper Mache Clay Butterflies

Paper Mache Clay Butterflies

Paper Mache Clay Snowman:

Paper Mache Clay Snowman

Paper Mache Clay Snowman

Traditional Paper Mache Tutorials:

Life-Sized Baby Elephant Sculpture:

Large Paper Mache Baby Indian Elephant

Large Paper Mache Baby Indian Elephant

Paper Mache Bluebirds:

Paper Mache Bluebirds

Paper Mache Bluebirds

Paper Mache Piggy Bank

Paper Mache Piggy Bank

Paper Mache Piggy Bank

Paper Mache Baby Sperm Whale Wall Hanging

Paper Mache Whale Wall Hanging

Paper Mache Whale Wall Hanging

Paper Mache Orangutan Mask

Paper Mache Orangutan Mask

Paper Mache Orangutan Mask

African Ceremonial Mask

African Ceremonial Mask

African Ceremonial Mask

Paper Mache Dragon

Paper Mache Dragon

Paper Mache Dragon

Paper Mache Lop-Eared Bunny

Paper Mache Lop-Eared Bunny

Paper Mache Lop-Eared Bunny

Paper Mache Rabbit Sculpture

Paper Mache Rabbit Sculpture

Paper Mache Rabbit Sculpture

Paper Mache Panda Sculpture

Paper Mache Panda Sculpture

Paper Mache Panda Sculpture

Paper Mache Long-Beaked Echidna Sculpture

Paper Mache Long-Beaked Echidna Sculpture

Paper Mache Long-Beaked Echidna Sculpture

Paper Mache Horse Sculpture (see links below)

Paper Mache Horse Sculpture

Paper Mache Horse Sculpture

This last tutorial is a series of posts showing my progress with a fairly complicated and advanced animal sculpture that took two weeks to complete. To read the posts from first to last, follow these links:

Seasonal Decorations:

Christmas Tree Ornaments

Christmas Tree Ornaments

Valentines Day Bouquet

Valentines Day Bouquet

Be sure to also check out the many other tutorials and posts on this site.

If you have any questions about any of the tutorials, or just want to sound off, please remember to leave a comment. Your comments make this blog much more fun for me to create.

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309 Comments

  • Jonni-

    I found your website by sure LUCK!… LOL… I am a photographer and well honestly buying photography props from a photography supply store is well OUCH!!! on the pocket book if you know what I mean. So I have taken it upon myself to make a photo prop that I seen and have been wanting… Helps when you have an Artistic mind and can make things. So I am making the bottom half of a cracked open egg shell for a baby to be posed in. I tired to do you paper mache clay and well it didnt work out to well for me but the Joint Compound mades a great bonding agent.

    Have a wonderful day and cant wait to see more.
    Hugs
    Nona

  • These sculptures are stunning. I never realized that paper mache could be so versatile! Seriously, I think I’ve found a new hobby. Keep up the good work, I’d love to see more!

  • I want to make a 10ft. paper mache tree . I need it to be easily moved but strong enough to stand alone. This is for a wedding reception and I will need to make 4 trees.I am not sure what the best thing to do for the armature since it will have to be carried upstairs , so it cant be too heavy. Thanks for any hints. Thank you, Kay

  • Your work is amazing! 🙂 you have opened my eyes to the countless possibilities of paper mache.

    On another note the youth group from my church is looking to make a dove, with its wings spread open, at least 2 ft tall, and i was wondering what do you suggest we use as the frame?

  • I would like to make my teleposts downstairs look like a tree. I am going to make a form around it but am wondering a few things and would appreciate your input. I run a daycare and I would like to know if paper mache would be to heavy to form it into a vertical tree from ceiling to floor, and also if it would withstand some bangs and bumps or would it break. Any input or suggestions you have would be greatly appreciate…Thank you

    • If you use enough layers of paper and paste, the paper mache should take a bit of abuse. However, you might need an engineer or someone with that kind of mind to make sure your trees can’t fall down and injure anyone. If you’re just pasting paper mache over existing columns, that wouldn’t be necessary. However, if you use chicken wire or another kind of armature that is not attached to a post, you’d want to be especially sure that it is solid.

      Also, with a daycare you might need to check with the fire department for their rules. Again, if the paper is stuck directly to a post, there should be no fire danger. If there’s any air behind it, think of it as kindling, and make sure it meets the local fire safety standards.

      Good luck with your project, and be sure to let us see it when it’s done.

  • Hi! I love your work! I’m new to the whole paper mache world and you have helped me a lot so far 🙂 I’m doing a project for my friends wedding. She wanted a beach themed card box. So I decided to do a sandcastle and it looks great so far. I used foam sheets to get the right size circle I needed for the towers. Worked out perfectly. Have a question though, I wanted to make a form of sand that I can mold over it, kind of like a clay. You think there is any recipe that I can use to do this? Should I just use a mixture of paste from a craft store and sand? I just don’t want to have play beat the clock with it. I’m taking my time and want it smooth and clean looking as possible. Thanks!
    -Michelle from Delaware

    • Michelle, maybe you could mix up some white glue with water to make it thinner, and then mix the sand into it. That would stick to your sculpture, without needing to have any type of paste showing between the grains. It might be worth an experiment, anyway.

      Be sure to let us see your sand castle when it’s done – it sounds like a wonderful wedding idea.

      • Thanks Jonni! I will make sure to post a pic when it’s all done. I’m now getting brave and starting to think of ideas to mache something for my daughter’s Woodland Fairy Party. Like a stump, mushroom, tree, anything whimsical for it. 🙂 I’m on a mache kick! 🙂

        • I was thinking about using cornstarch? I keep seeing it being used in many types of pastes. It seems pretty harmless in case my daughter wants to “help” 🙂 The sand is a more of a white texture and hopefully it will turn out okay 🙂

  • I would like to know if the paper mache clay can be placed over styrofoam shapes instead of paper and masking tape figures. If so, would I need to cover the styrofoam with something to help the paper clay adhere? Also, I have a can of Bob Ross’s Magic White….is this the same thing as gesso? Thank you, and keep up the good work!

    • I’ve never tried using a Styrofoam base, but I don’t know why it wouldn’t work. And I’ve never used any of Mr. Ross’s paints, so I can’t answer the last question either. If he uses it as a base to prime his canvases, than it’s the same thing.

  • Hello your works are wonderful Jonni I need some help with the painting of mache I have a big can of white enamel paint can i use it as a base coat (sealer) on my finished project and use oil colors afterwords? and can tempra paints are used instead of emulsion paint plz answer soon
    thanks

    • You can use any kind of paint on paper mache that will work on ordinary paper. I’m not sure, however, that tempera paint will stick to enamel. You’d want to do a small experiment to find out before coating your entire project with the enamel. It might work, but then again, it might not. Let us know what you find out.

  • Hello, Jonni Goode!
    Greetings from the UK!
    This is not really a ‘comment’… but couldn’t find an e-mail address for you on your Website… so I’m hoping this will do? It doesn’t have to be circulated unless you think others might find your suggestions useful.
    I have been following your website for quite a while now, and am really impressed with your creations. They are so life-like and inspiring. Although an Ancient Crone of 70 Winters, I decided I had to have a go myself, at creating with your papier mâché clay. However, I’m having one or two problems finding your recommended ingredients… which I hope you can solve for me.
    1. I tried to find the ‘joint compound’ you mention and could only find the powder version… no ready mixed joint compound seems to be available here. There was a ready mixed All Purpose ‘Polyfiller’, but was assured by the retailer that it worked differently from joint compound. So I opted for the joint compound powder and am now wondering if I have done the right thing. Do you have any suggestions about using the powder, i.e. reconstituting it with water into a paste before adding to your mix, etc? Or simply adding it in its dry form? How it compares with the ready mixed variety?
    2. There are two types of linseed oil, raw and boiled. Which of the two would you recommend for using in the papier mâché clay?
    I was considering asking Dark Jonty, as a fellow countryman, for suitable ‘brand’ suggestions… but was so sorry to find he has gone to the Summerlands and is no longer with us. He had such an generous and inquiring mind, and was so talented. Such a great loss to the craft.
    I hope you can help, Jonni. Looking forward to hearing from you soon.
    Best wishes, Elizabeth Magill.

    • Hi Elizabeth. I know I can’t fill Jonty’s shoes, but I will try to answer some of your questions. First, if you have some dried joint compound (I’ve been told that you call it joint filler in the UK) you can mix it up as directed on the package and then add it to you recipe. You might be able to play with the amount of water to get the clay the way you like it. It should be soft enough to spread easily with a knife. If your powdered joint filler is the “fast setting” kind, you may have some problems, because they add either plaster or Portland cement, which will harden even while it’s still wet. If it is fast setting, it should say on the label.

      I use the boiled linseed oil, because I can buy it at the hardware store and it’s cheaper than the raw linseed oil that I can buy at the art store. Either one will work. The boiled linseed oil does have added drying chemicals, so if very young children are using the paper mache clay, you would probably want to leave it out. The clay will still work just fine without it.

      And – just for future reference, you can find the really itty-bitty contact link up at the very top of the page. I like to answer questions in the comments section if possible, though, because if one person asks a question, it’s probable that a few hundred people have the same question but were too shy to ask. 😉

      • Hello-again, Jonni!
        Thanks for your prompt reply. I have now located your ‘contact’ link! Silly me!… either I didn’t look far enough up the page… or your banner may have been covered by the new updated ‘Firefox’ banner I’ve just downloaded.

        In case it may be useful for others to know, the filler I purchased was ‘”Blue Hawk” Plasterboard Joint Filler’ by Artex Ltd. I contacted their Technical Dept for advice, but were unable to help… ‘never heard any of *our* products being used like that!’ they said. So I guess I’ll just have to experiment and let you know the result.

        I seem to have got one thing right, though! I bought the ‘boiled’ linseed oil… because it had more wood penetrating qualities than the raw version and, if all else failed, I have a garden seat badly in need of some boiled linseed TLC! My one and only grandson is now 22… so the only young child who will be using the clay will be the inner child I take everywhere with me… and what fun we have! Late May I was camping in Dorset (or Dorr-zett, land of the Worzels, inc Worzel Gummage), trying my hand at carving Purbeck stone (i.e. local Portland stone). I have yet to invest in a purple outfit and ‘a red hat that doesn’t go’! I feel that, at last, I can live my life just a little bit outrageously!

        Thanks so much for such an informative and inspiring website, Jonni, and for so generously sharing your secrets. The US is really well-endowed with artistry and talent… and the materials to support it.
        Kindest regards, Elizabeth

        • Hello Elizabeth,

          I’m from the UK too – actually from Switzerland, but I moved here for university almost three years ago. You’re so right about the US, I’ve been working there three months once and even in the smallest town they had a well equipped toolshop with materials and it seems that a lot of great products are coming from there, not to mention the workshops.

          I had therefore a similar problem with the joint compound and decided on a filler. I was looking at Artex Ltd., but was unsure. In our workshop, with have Polycell Polyfilla we use usually for Jesmonite and plaster work and another filler which we usually use for woodwork and fibreglass or Jesmonite as well. I can’t remember the name, but it’s too hard to mix to make the clay. I tried the Polyfilla, as powder and mixed it just before I put it with the rest of the ingredients. However, it took long to dry and I couldn’t store the clay long, as it dried out despite being in a air-tight container and it wasn’t as robust – but it had a nice, smooth texture.
          I then took the Homebase homebrand (due to financial reasons, actually…) of joint filler and I mix it with 1/6 to 1/8 with PVA – it makes it smoother and moist and a tiny bit water. It dries quicker, but I can store it for about a week and it’s rock hard as paper mâché clay. And it’s easier to sand later.
          That were my experiences, when you worked with the Artex Ltd. brand, can you write your experience? I’m sure there’s room for improvement on mine.
          All the best,
          Jennifer

          • Hello, Jennifer!
            ‘Twas nice to hear from you. Which Uni are you at in the UK, and what are you studying?

            I’m curious about your ‘workshop’… what do you do there? Sounds as if you are working with plaster mouldings, wood and fibre-glass… or some things similar? I have a curious disposition… do explain! Is that where you are constructing your life size Emperor Penguin? He looks fantastic already… you have really captured his beak. How did you make the armature?

            I’ve just noted from your previous e-mail to Jonni that you are studying props and scenic art… I would have given my eye teeth and molars to have done such a course, and mask making, etc, etc, etc! Educational opportunities and innovations in theatre arts, etc, have increased enormously in 50 years! Lucky you!

            I looked up the ‘Jesmonite’ you mentioned, as I’d never heard of it before. There are a number of ‘Jesmonite’ products… which one(s) are you familiar with? I shall consider the ‘Homebase’ filler if the ‘Artex’ doesn’t work… I only really know of ‘Artex” for use in ‘messing up’ ceilings with decorative patterns that can’t then easily be removed!… it is more like a very thick paint. However, this is different from the paint… but as yet an unknown quantity! I’ll let you know how it handles… eventually!

            I have been wondering if ‘whiting’ (simple ground chalk) might be worth considering? My school used it for marking tennis courts and hockey fields (…back in the mists of time! Goodness knows what is used today!), and we used to filch it for whitening our canvas gym shoes! It didn’t harden like plaster, and could be resurrected with water if it dried out. Plaster-of-Paris seems to have some kind of catalyst added, causing a chemical reaction, as does ‘Polyfiller’. The PoP can be deactivated (deadened) by heating it up in a kiln… i.e. above standard oven temperatures. I have some whiting already, for the stained glass I dabble in and may try mixing it. If anyone has done this already, I’d be interested to know the results.

            Have you ever tried it, Jonni?
            Thanks for your suggestions, Jennifer.
            All the best, Elizabeth

            • Elizabeth, the joint compound we use is primarily made of calcium carbonate (whiting, chalk, powdered marble, and several other common names), and if it’s fine enough it should work with the recipe. It works really well when making home-made gesso. More water would need to be added to the recipe, of course. I can’t get it here for a price that would make it feasible, so I haven’t been able to experiment. If you do, please let us know what happens. (I have experimented with Plaster of Paris, and was not happy with the results).

            • Hi Elizabeth,
              nice to hear from you! I’m studying at Central School of Speech and Drama in London – we’re having an exhibition next week with all the crafts students (Scenic Art, Scenic Construction, Props Making, Costume Construction), my penguin will be there too.
              I love the work, but coming from Switzerland, I haven’t heard of it before the actual interview (applied for Production and Technical Management) and I’m more from a Fine Art background I taught myself.

              It’s supposed to be a King Penguin, actually, I’ve finished it 3 hours ago – maybe some touch ups and I need to varnish it. I just saw that I need to repaint his throat, though. Thanks for your compliment.

              paper mache king penguin

              There is actually no armature – it’s empty inside, the base is the basic shape of the being on which is sculpted peak, feet, face, attached wings.

              I’ve worked with the Jesmonite AC100 and AC300 from JESMONITE – AC100 is for pieces that are going to be outdoors and is much stronger, and AC300 for indoor pieces – you can thin down AC100 with a tiny bit water a bit longer. (It’s really strong! When not sanded down, like a knife – I had more than one cut and holes in my work leggins!)

              I haven’t used whiting, so thank you and thanks Jonni for your input. That’s an interesting point!

              Best regards,
              Jennifer

            • Thank you!
              I’m really glad I found your page – my mom wants a lifesize capricorn and my sister and I are going to make it in Switzerland. We’ll keep close to your elephant tutorial (we both love) to make it.
              (The penguin was very experimental and some things did go wrong, I had to repair his belly about 3 times…)

              I made his feet out of super sculpey! I’ve seen it in one of yours – you just put newspaper over super sculpey and I was like – hell yes! So, I put some latex over an avocado, few layers, left it to dry, took it off and used it as a texture tool. So the penguin feet have this nice texture on and then dried it with a heat gun.

              He’s called Bobo now. (I say PoPo, the Pretty PaPier-mâché Penguin.)

            • The texture idea is wonderful! I’m going to remember that one. Be sure to let us see that Capricorn when it’s done, too. I’m sure it’s going to be wonderful.

            • Hi, Jennifer!
              He is an Emperor King Penguin!… he’s too fantastic to be ‘just a king’! I think the crowds will love PoPo… and be even more amazed when they find he is simply made with paper and paste. Is the Exhibition at Central School open to the public?
              I’m still curious to know how you went about making his shape, especially as it is so large and also hollow. You have worked a wonder and I’m now dying to see the Capricorn… and perhaps a series of ‘work in progress’ photos?
              Well done!
              Best wishes, Elizabeth

            • Hi Elizabeth,
              I’m sorry for my late reply, yes, the exhibition is open for the public on Thursday the whole day and on Friday morning until around 11am, I think. If you’re near, you can just come by, the university is just by Swiss Cottage tube station in London – literally a two second walk.
              He’s hanging in the room since Tuesday and most people find him cute – he has quite a charming personality, I guess!
              I can show you the whole process at the beginning of next week, it’s a bit stressful now here. (It’s a PDF document with describtion and photos of the making process.) I don’t want to absuse Jonni’s homepage, any suggestions?
              All the best,
              Jennifer

  • Hi Jonni,

    I found your website really inspiring and fascinating! I’m working on a life-size diving (male) king penguin at the moment and finished the base. The penguin itself is hollow and there is – at the moment – a hole in his botton I can reach in with my hand and glue or adjust or hold the penguin, if needed. Tomorrow, I will start texturing him with your papier mâché clay recipe – I’m very excited!
    I’m not making the eyes though, I have ordered glass eyes and hope they arrive soon. He also has little hooks to hang him from the ceiling in the exhibition.
    paper mache diving penguin

    Thanks so much for sharing your makes with us! My mum now wants a life-size capricorn for her garden in summer!

      • No, unfortunately not, I’m studying props making and scenic art and we have an annual exhibtion for the 2nd and 3rd years – it’s my first exhibition. I saw your website back in November and decided to make something based on your animals and tutorials to show that you can get good results with papier mâché and basically show off the material.
        My tutor recommended to ask the London Zoo, if they want to take him later – apparently, they have introduced a new part for penguins.
        I started with the papier m̢ch̩ clay for about two hours today Рamazing, love sculpting with it. I was wondering if you could colour it? For example with black pigment?

        paper mache penguin

        • Jennifer, he’s going to be absolutely wonderful. If the London Zoo doesn’t want him, they’re crazy.

          About the color issue, the answer is “maybe.” I do know that adding too much pigment to concrete weakens it, but concrete is very different stuff. It might be hard to add enough pigment to overpower the white in the clay, and that much pigment could alter the properties of the material. But I don’t know – if you find out, please let us know.

  • Hello good day Jonni

    Thank you very much for this website, all the insights and the recipies. That was exactly what I was looking/hoping for. I´ve been dabbling in paper mache ever so often and like it, but the information on this page is helping me a lot with question I had and projects I want to do. I can´t wait to do some exercises and then post some pictures of me projects. My main interest are masks and head pieces as I am a bodypainter and always need lightweight decorations my models can wear comfortably. Again, thank you for all the shared knowledge.

    I have one question thou:
    How do I prep a form I want to take a paper mache cast of? I want to make big masks with no undercuts and then mold them over with the old layering technique to get at least ten casts from one mold. I tried oil as a seperation agent but failed. I´ve seen you using masking tape for the orang uthan mask. Would that work on bigger, more detailed structures too? I guess I could also make a plaster cast of my structures and then push the paper clay in. Any thoughts on that?

    Thank you very much in advance

    best regards from London

    Wolf

    • Hi Wolf. I have to admit that I ended up making my recent masks with a home-made version of “instant paper mache,” which is really just plaster of Paris lightened with paper pulp. The molds I used were made of silicone, but if you don’t have any undercuts a plaster mold would work just fine – as long as you use a release. The result is very light, and surprisingly strong, but not break-proof of course. I’m not sure how they would hold up if they were worn instead of being hung on the wall. But of course, this isn’t really the info you were looking for…

      The problem with finding a mold release for paper mache is that the oil will soak into the paste, and you end up with a mold that has paper mache permanently stuck to it. A wax-based release might work – it sounds promising, but I haven’t tried it. Some people put down one layer of wet newspaper over the mold, and then start adding their paper mache from that point. You could also seal your mold really well with shellack or varnish first, which will help protect the mold and will make it harder for the paper mache to stick to it (you’d still need a release), or you can cover the mold with the masking tape, which will pull off the inside of a mask when it dries. You’d need to use the tape every time, of course.

      I sure hope you’ll let us see your masks when they’re done. I can tell from the work you show on your website that anything you come up will be wonderful.

      • Awww, thanks for the compliments.
        For a release, somebody just suggested cling film to me, for bigger molds. That sounds good. I´ll definetly give it a try.

        Thanks for the reply

        • I hope I’m ok to tell about my experiences?
          I’m working with plaster and wax, water- and oil-based clay molds at the moment and had some difficulties. I even molded over papier mâché.
          I now only use clingfilm if I want to protect the mold. Otherwise, I found that vaseline helps – I tried Macwax, which is a wax release agent spray – but it’s only ok. It might work with other molds, though.
          The only problem with vaseline is, that you then usually have a thin layer of it on the cast, but you can gently wipe it off and add another layer of thin paper on top of it.
          The plaster mold was very tricky, because it was detailled and even had very slight undercuts, so I did that with one layer of only wet paper over vaseline and then added the glue mixture. But I also need to add another layer on to the wet and vaseline one to seal it, once it was released.
          I was using brown paper for my penguin and added about 4 layers onto it, filled it and added another layer. He dropped once right onto his peak, but didn’t even had any damage and I once threw him 2 metres far to see how strong it is before I started filling him and he was all good.

          Maybe that helps?
          Kind regards from London too,

          Jennifer

  • Hi,

    I fancy making a classical frieze using your paper mache clay recipe, I think using a wooden backing board with a fine mesh covering say raised say 1/2 to an 1″ off the base to take the sculpture etc… Any suggestions/ideas on this

    Colin

    • Colin, your idea sounds great. The only thing you’ll want to watch out for is cracking as the very large, fairly flat sheet of paper mache clay shrinks a little. If you do get cracks, you can repair them with a bit more clay.

      Good luck with it. And please let us see it when it’s done.

      • Two further questions is Embers glue a paper or wood glue that we call resin W. Also the jointing compound you refer is this the stuff used in plumbing?

  • I was wondering if you’ve ever used an Airbrush on any of your art? I dont have any experience with them but it sure looks like it could be a useful tool for this kind of art.

    • Hi Mike. I haven’t used an airbrush for many years, but you’re right – it would be a good tool for paper mache. Have you tried it yet?

    • Jasmin, there is an easier way to make your kangaroo. Make a cardboard pattern of the body, tall and head in profile, and four extra patterns for the legs. Although it’s a very different Australian creature, you can see how the process works here, where you see an echidna being made with paper mache and a pattern. If you use a cardboard pattern, filled out with crumpled paper and masking tape, you avoid the problems with forming wire.

      I hope this helps.

    • That’s a hard question for me to answer, because I’ve never made a figure in paper mache. How big does he need to be? And how soon does it need to be done? Does anyone out there have some suggestions for Cheryl?

  • Hi,

    I think your recipe is really cool and I’m going to try and use it to make flower petals for a prop piece that we’re using for A Midsummer Night’s Dream – Titania’s Bowery? I was wondering how strong the paper mache clay is? Is it sittable? How strong is it in thin strips?

    • Johanna, your question is a bit difficult to answer. Once the clay is dry it is fairly tough and strong, yet it will bend a little. If it bends a lot, you can break it, but you have to try pretty hard. However the best way to know if the material will work for your purposes is to do an experimental piece and see for yourself.

  • Hello, I’m wondering if I can get some advice on a piece… I’m going to attempt to make wings for a festival I’ll be attending June 18th this year. And by wings i mean wings that are large enough to be worn and small enough to walk through a crowd while wearing. can you help?

    Thank you, Kortnie

    • Hmm – I wonder if you could make it out of fabric with a wire frame to hold the shape, and then sew on feathers made out of felt. Not paper-mache, of course, but it wouldn’t conk anyone on the head as you walk through the crowd.

      Anyone else have some suggestions?

      • One idea for wings, which I must say I have never done, but might be worth a try. Make the armature out of wire, then use cloth with monster mud. I have never used this, but do a google search and there is a good web site with the recipe. Its made out of joint compound and paint. You dip the cloth in the mixture then attach it to the wire, it dries hard. Would be light weight but fairly strong. Just and idea
        Chris

  • Hello,
    I was wanting to know if you know of a place or site that i can get molds of blank masquared masks for both men and women. Im new to this but im doing great at what im doing im just wanting to make more than just one type of mask. I would also be glad to put some of my work up or on to show what ive made.

    -Jacob

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