Paper Mache Recipes

This page contains recipes for several kinds of home-made paper mache paste, and home-made gesso recipes for finishing your sculptures.

I have been messing around with paper mache for over 50 years and up until a few months ago I always came back to the easiest paper mache recipes, using plain old white flour and water paste with torn strips of newspaper.

Now, however, I have abandoned the traditional layered paper process and use my new paper mache clay recipe  and/or the even newer silky-smooth air-dry clay recipe for most my sculptures. However, for younger artists or for those who really don’t want to make the trip to the hardware store, these following recipes work just fine, and most of the tutorials on this site would work using these traditional paper mache recipes.

Paper Mache Paste Recipes:

Paper Mache Recipe #1
Paper Mache Recipe #1

White flour and water make a remarkably strong paste. In fact, some folks think paper mache is strong enough to build houses with. Your finished sculptures might not be strong enough to hold up a house, but you can sand them and drill them, just like wood.

Boiled Flour and Water Paste:

Many people use a paste that is made of white flour and water that has been brought to a boil. I did some experimenting and found that this paste is not as strong as raw paste, so you’ll need more layers of paper to make your finished sculpture stiff enough. However, it does dry clear, so many people prefer it. To make boiled paste, mix a heaping tablespoon of white flour with a cup of water in a small saucepan and stir until there are no lumps. Put the pan on the stove at medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and allow to cool. The paste will be very runny at this stage, but it will gell as it cools.

Raw Flour and Water Paste:

This is the paste I almost always use, because it’s stronger than boiled paste and you can complete a project with only a few layers of paper. To make up the paste, just pour some white flour in a bowl, and add water gradually until you have a consistency that will work well. (Use a small kitchen mixer so you don’t have any lumps).

How thick should you make your paste? It’s actually up to you. Experiment with thick pastes that resemble hotcake batter, and thin pastes that are runny and watery. You get to decide which ones you prefer.

Keep in mind that it is the flour, and not the water, that gives strength to your paper mache sculpture. And also remember that each layer of paste and paper that is added to your project must dry completely to keep it from developing mold.

Speaking of mold, why not use wallpaper pastes that contain fungicides? There are two reasons why I choose to use white flour pastes, instead of ingredients that prevent mold. First, white flour is ridiculously cheap when compared to any other type of art supply. And second, I hate the idea of dipping my hands in something that contains poison. If small children were helping me with my projects, this would be even more important.

To prevent the development of mold in your projects, you just need to remember that molds cannot grow without water. Therefore, take every effort to dry out your projects completely. I usually put my small sculptures in a warm oven (not over 200 F) or place them near a radiator. Next summer I intend to build a solar dryer that will be large enough for bigger items. The main trick is to make sure the sculpture is dry all the way through – if any dampness is left inside when you apply paint or other finish, the sculpture will eventually rot from the inside out – a truly disappointing development, I assure you.

Glue-Based paste:

If you don’t want to mess with flour and water, and you don’t mind spending the money for some Elmer’s glue, I found this video for a glue-based paper mache paste that you might want to use instead.

Paper Mache Recipe #2
Paper Mache Recipe #2

Papers to Use for Paper Mache:

The traditional paper to use for paper mache is newspaper, which is torn into short strips. (Cut edges should be avoided, because they don’t blend in.) Newspaper is cheap, and it is a soft paper that is easy to bend and mold around a sculpture.

However, you can also use brown kraft paper from paper bags, which will give your sculpture a naturally warm color if the piece is left unpainted.

You can also use softer papers, like paper towels and even tissue paper. The softer papers are used to fashion delicate details, and textured paper towels can be used to add an interesting final coat. The paper mache dragon on this site used the bumpiness of paper towels to represent the dragon’s leathery skin.

Gesso Recipes:

Gesso helps to seal the paper mache and provide a nice white ground that makes your paint brighter. You can use acrylic gesso from the art store, or make your own.

Easy Glue and Joint Compound recipe:

I make my gesso using about 3 parts joint compound, 1 part Elmer’s Glue-All, and some white acrylic paint if I want the gesso nice and white. The paint isn’t really needed. You can apply a coat of this gesso, sand it or use a lightly damp sponge to smooth it out, and then add another layer if the surface still isn’t smooth enough.

Powdered Marble Gesso recipe:

For a thicker home-made gesso, you can use calcium carbonate (powdered marble) and white glue. The traditional proportions are 2 parts PVA glue (Elmer’s or an archival book-binder’s PVA glue if you worry about pH), 4 parts water, and 8 parts calcium carbonate. To make it nice and white, add 1 part powdered titanium or zinc white pigment. If you want to thicken the gesso to cover bumps faster, you can use more powdered marble.

Finishing Your Paper Mache Sculpture:

You can use any type of paint on your sculpture. I usually use acrylic craft paints, and a final glaze made from water-based Verathane mixed with a bit of brown, or copper paint from the craft store. This final coat is put on with a brush and then immediately rubbed off with a paper towel, leaving the darker color in the dips and valleys of the sculpture. I happen to like the effect, but it is certainly not required.

 

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1,362 Responses

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  1. Lee Ann Chapman
    Lee Ann Chapman at |

    I have an unusual question. I want to make a biodegradable urn that will hold the remains of my in-laws and their 3 Boston Terriers. We will be putting into the Gulf in March. Do you think that paper mache’ would work for this?
    Thanks!

    Reply
  2. Janie
    Janie at |

    I just ordered your book from Amazon. I can’t wait for it to arrive. I am going to make a pronghorn and I was wondering what you would use for the rings on the horns?

    Reply
  3. Angela
    Angela at |

    Dear Jonni,

    I am in training to be a Florist in the UK. Having found your site last year and watched your videos, I am going to take the plunge! Looking at your Dragon sculpture, I would like to change it to include flowers in its back or side. In order to get pre-formed holes in the body, how can I do this without weakening the structure?j I would like to create this as a Chinese New Year display.

    Reply
  4. Pamela
    Pamela at |

    Hi Jonni! I teach papier-mâché to teenagers at an afterschool GED program. Can you recommend a non-toxic recipe using pulp? I tried a very simple one using paper, water, flour, glue and blending it together, but the pulp fell apart. Maybe it needs to be heated? Thank you for all that you give to this site.

    Reply
  5. Sean
    Sean at |

    I have been doing this for a long time and I have found that if you add a little bit of salt to the flour mix that your mold problems go away.

    Reply
  6. Patrice
    Patrice at |

    Hi. I’m looking to create Pandora’s Box out of paper mache. Any ideas as to how I should construct it? I’m lost.

    Reply
  7. sarah
    sarah at |

    Gesso is an art material consistancy of paint that can be applied on canvas and wood to prepare them to be painted.

    Reply
  8. kelly
    kelly at |

    what’s a gesso?

    Reply
  9. Rachel
    Rachel at |

    Hi Jonni,
    This is all so interesting! I am working on paper mache bowls for my kids’ school fundraiser, and I am hoping to use birch bark paper as a final layer. Do you have any experience with this? I’m not finding anything in my google search! Thanks for any help/advice you can give,
    Rachel

    Reply
  10. Trish
    Trish at |

    Hi Jonni, I’m an artist and mostly just paint…. but I’ve always been drawn to papier mache and have loved every second of reading all about your recipes and especially the papier mache clay…. can’t wait to try it! I use a completely different recipe to yours of flour and water… it’s so simple and very strong, it’s cornstarch and boiling water. I’m using some in a garden shed (My new Art Studio) at the moment which I’m “wall-papering” over ugly and uneven wood panelling on the inside. I’m using strong paper from old magazines and it seems to be doing a very good job. I will then paint it with an acrylic PVA paint so I will have relatively smooth decent looking white walls when I’m done. What is worrying me though are the “critters” I have heard people talk about! I have have used some oil of cloves in my mixture, do you think this is a sufficient deterrent or should I be using borax? If the borax, then what quantities should I use. My cornstarch recipe is approx 1 cup of cornstarch to 1.7 litres of boiling water. I use a little cold water with the cornstarch first to make it the consistency of pouring cream, then add the rapidly boiling water whilst stirring with a whisk, makes a nice clear jelly like paste, which dries strong and hard. Looking forward to your reply, and thanks again for a magnificent website! Trish :-)

    Reply
  11. Kristi
    Kristi at |

    I am making a pregnate belly cake for a baby shower and thought it would be interesting to make it the actual shape of the mother-to-be’s belly. I thought paper macheing it would work great but since my mold is a live person how long do i have to let it dry before setting her free? Has anyone ever done this before? Any suggestions?

    Reply
  12. teopa
    teopa at |

    Help! I am needing to make a horse head mask for a theatrical production. I have only cardboard to work with for the under structure and my knowledge of horse anatomy is lacking. I think i’m in over my head on this project. Can you suggest anything to make this less intimidating?

    Reply
  13. Valerie
    Valerie at |

    I am making 5 foot mask of a goat from papier mache for a large burn sculpture. It is important that it burn easily. I hope this does not sound too dumb, but does papier mache burn easily? I will not be putting gesso on it. Also, can the papier mache clay burn if it has that joint compound in it?

    Reply
  14. Ruth McLaughlin
    Ruth McLaughlin at |

    Hi, I’m hoping you can help. My Brownies (age 7-10) are going to be helping me make a piñata to finish one if their interest badges. The only thing is I need the paper mâché not to be too strong as they are going to need to break it and some are quite small and not very strong. Can you advise me which would be the best mixture to use for that? Thank you in advance

    Reply
    1. Chelsea
      Chelsea at |

      Make it in two halves and then make the middle weak where you join it together and fill it with candy.

      Reply
    2. Shian
      Shian at |

      I just did a Humpty Dumpty pinata for my daughter’s 3rd birthday. Chose Humpty as it was easy & balloon-shaped! Used a very large party balloon, newspaper, and flour & water (raw, no boiling) paste. Did 3 layers, waited until it was completely dry (few days) then popped the balloon.
      Don’t pop the balloon before you have put all the layers & it is completely dry. First try, poor quality balloon popped after first layer (even though layer was dry) and ended up a sad shrivelled ball.
      2-3 year olds had to do quite a few ‘pushes’ of Humpty off the wall before he broke – but I wouldn’t do any fewer layers or the pinata contents would be too heavy & might break through before the day.

      Reply
      1. Shian
        Shian at |

        Forgot to add, if you look at pinata websites, they recommend not to paper mache over cardboard – then your pinata will be impossible to break!

        Reply
        1. Ruth McLaughlin
          Ruth McLaughlin at |

          Thank you all sooo much for your advice! I’ve done paper mâché before (quite a few years ago!) but never for a piñata. My Brownies will have a ball making then breaking the piñata!!

          Reply
  15. Vera
    Vera at |

    I just did 3 balloons using paper mache and I never had a problem with it slipping. I put the balloon over the container with the paper mache mixture in it and it laid one the edge of the bowl with no problems. I am waiting for them to dry so I can add more layers.

    Reply
  16. Javier
    Javier at |

    Im looking for a recipe that makes the paste clear
    I’ve seen it before I don’t know how it is made
    But it is clear and slimy
    I dont know if that helps
    But if you know what paste I’m talking about can you please tell me how to make it

    Reply
    1. any
      any at |

      There’s a recipe that calls for corn starch and light corn syrup, don’t quote me but i believe you use equal parts.

      Reply
  17. Richard Leclercq
    Richard Leclercq at |

    I am looking for a recipe for paper machie that does not include flour. I can’t find oil of clove locally and making anything out of an edible material becomes moldy real fast. Painting and sealing don’t seem to help.
    Why not let your toilet paper soak about half an hour, then wring out the vexcess water. Toilet paper is designed to dissolve in water, albeit slowly.
    Why add joint compound? Very curious about that.

    Reply
  18. Emma
    Emma at |

    I havent paper mached in years! But Im about to make 2 large snowmen to sit on my fornt porch, I plan to frame them in chicken wire and wrap them in paper mache, then add lights inside and paint them up. My question is, how sturdy would the paper mache last in the elements. They will be partially covered on my porch but not entirely. Would they ruin in cold wet weather, with a great chance of snow over Christmas? Should I seal them in something to give a better protection? If so what? All your help would be much appreciated! Thanks!!

    Reply
  19. melinda
    melinda at |

    I am new to PMC and did my first bowl today. I have a fan blowing on the bowl next to my woodstove. Who long should I wait b4 putting on second coat? And what would you paint and seal the bowl for food safe.

    Reply
    1. Anthony
      Anthony at |

      Probably the best bet for a food safe coating, is something from a kitchen sealing standpoint. Homedepot should have tons of it. I know some people use enamel, you can also probably look at some glazes that I have seen, food safe though is another thing.

      Reply
      1. Keith
        Keith at |

        My understanding is that shellac is edible. That might be a good food-safe finish.

        Reply
    2. Chelsea
      Chelsea at |

      Perhaps you can find a pottery glaze to meet your needs.

      Reply
  20. Shian
    Shian at |

    Just did a simple paper mache of a balloon with your flour & water mix (no boiling) but the newspaper kept wanting to slide down, so it looked like a ‘melting balloon’. I tried a thick paste to start with then accidentally made a thin paste when I ran out so put that on. Newspaper dipped in both types wanted to migrate down. Is this a known problem or am I doing something wrong?

    Reply
  21. Aryea
    Aryea at |

    Hi, Jonni! It’s Aryea, the float guy again. I’m working on a large papier mache project right now, and have had problems like Jay has with bugs in the past. (Maybe one reason is that I tend to use “buggy” flour in the first place. Hey, I paid for it. I might not be able to eat it, so I might as well get some use out of it, right? ;) ) Freezing is one way to kill the bugs in it, another is to heat it in a low (200 deg.) oven for about an hour. This will kill both bugs and eggs in the flour. But this doesn’t stop them from coming in afterwards and chowing down on the paper and glue, especially if this is a decoration that will be stored outside. Down here in the South we have a problem with water bugs. (If you’re not aware of them, these things are huge cockroaches that get in everywhere- they’ve even found them in operating rooms. But not to worry, for some reason, they tend to die once they come in.) They live in the trees and eat dead wood and leaf moulds. And paper being made from wood is a tasty snack for them. And the flour glue is just icing on the cake. I’ve made some outside decorations in the past and lost them in storage to water bugs, silverfish, and even mice. Mice don’t eat them of course, but they do like to live in them. So to prevent all of this, I’ve had to get creative to prevent this from happening. The idea that Prokopis had to add pyrethrins to the flour is actually a good idea. Pyrethrin is one of the most environmentally friendly of the insect poisons out there. It’s made from chrysanthemums, and is harmless to people and domestic animals. I wouldn’t recommend sprinkling it on your morning cereal, but it’s okay in papier mache. I’ve also found that bugs don’t like white glues (PVA) like Elmer’s very much. So I always mix a bunch of this into my flour glue. You can also use a few drops of citronella or spearmint oil in your mix to keep the bugs and mice away. Since oil and water don’t mix very well, I’ve found a couple of teaspoons of lecithin (which you can find in a health food store) will allow the oil to mix with with the water-based glues.

    Reply
  22. Darla
    Darla at |

    I just love your website and refer to it when I do projects for church. A couple of years ago, I made a boulder for our Hawaiian-themed ladies tea. Currently, I’m building a “stone” fireplace for our Christmas play. The “stones” are crumpled newspaper. I’ve used the old-fashioned newspaper strip/flour paste recipe, though I added a bit of Elmers and linseed oil to the paste. I had planned to use your recipe #1 for a final layer on all the stones, but since that still leaves a slight bumpy texture, I’ve decided to use a gesso layer over the strip layers. My question is this (and I apologize if you’ve answered this in the previous posts): is there any risk of the gesso layer cracking? How well do you think it would stand up in this particular application? Thanks again for the wonderful resource!

    Reply
  23. Henriette
    Henriette at |

    I have just finished writing exams and have piles and piles of white A4 paper. I would like to make something creative with it. Could I paper mache with white paper or does it have to be newspaper.

    Reply
  24. Olivia
    Olivia at |

    Hi. I have been working for years with PM, but I want to sell my pieces. Could you please give me some ideas about it? I would appreciate it. Thanks

    Reply
    1. Chelsea
      Chelsea at |

      Craft Shows are generally a good place to start. You can gain a good local customer base that way and may be able to get some commissions outside the shows.

      Reply
  25. Patrick
    Patrick at |

    I paper-mâché often for commissioned art pieces and I add Borax to the uncooked wheat paste. This keeps the bugs out.

    Reply
  26. alicia
    alicia at |

    I am making a small volcanoe for science and i dont knowvwhat to use for my base

    Reply
  27. Whinnie the Pooh
    Whinnie the Pooh at |

    I have never paper mached before

    Reply
  28. fayhaimran
    fayhaimran at |

    this is nice but not what im looking for

    Reply
  29. Carmel Siler
    Carmel Siler at |

    For the joint compound, do you use pre-mixed paste or the powder?

    Thank you!

    Reply
  30. Meghan
    Meghan at |

    Thank you for your website! I am working on a paper mache planter. I’m using a small circular laundry basket for my base. I wadded paper around the basket and covered that with paper mache. It has more deep craters than I would like. What do you recommend to correct this?
    Thanks!!

    Reply
  31. Stephanie
    Stephanie at |

    I wanted to thank you guys so very much for all your help! After many man hours and a ton of trial and error, the submarine project came to fruition. I wish I could figure out how to put a picture in here, I would have loved to show you how it ended up being. Thank you again!!!

    Reply
  32. Brian
    Brian at |

    Joni,

    I bought your book on masks. Thank-you. It really helped me complete my son’s halloween mask. One question seems unanswered by the book though. Once you have a bucket of waste water. How do you responsibly get rid of the water? Do you filter it off in some manner?

    Brian

    Reply
  33. Prokopis
    Prokopis at |

    Thank you Jonni, I never thought about the bugs in the flour, it seems could be quite serious.I also read about bay leaf oil, what do youn think about this?

    Reply
  34. Taria Lorehand
    Taria Lorehand at |

    I made the Gesso (3 part JC to 1 part glue all) and it came out really really thick, is it supposed to be thick and hard to brush on, or is it supposed to be like paint where it is easy to brush on and you don’t get the clumping action as it dries or looks like sugar frosting?

    Reply
    1. greenmomma
      greenmomma at |

      thats how mine came out as well, i watered it down till it was usable because even though it was uber thick it would drip if i left it after i spread it on.

      Reply
      1. Taria Lorehand
        Taria Lorehand at |

        okay I will add some water to it and see if that helps. I made the mistake and added it to the face of what I was working on and now it looks odd and I can’t redo the face, I don’t have time.

        thanks for the reply.

        Reply
  35. Chelsea
    Chelsea at |

    Add a few drops of tea tree oil to the water mixture next time you make something. It repels insects and mold while lasting quite a while. You’ll know you got the really good stuff if you accidentally get it on your hands and can taste it in your mouth (lol).

    For your current project you could put a drop or two in water and “paint” it on your sculpture. It will soak in and once dry you can paint normally.

    Reply
    1. Chelsea
      Chelsea at |

      This was supposed to be a reply to Jay

      Reply
  36. Jay
    Jay at |

    Hi I have experimented with paper mache’ for years, have turned out some truly remarkable pieces. My only problem is they keep being eaten by the weevils or bugs that naturally live in the flour. They eventual eat & destroy everything. I have now completed 1m high Angel and she looks awesome. How can I preserve her after she’s completed from bug infestation. But still be able to paint it. I thought of kreosote but then cant paint it. Thanks desperate to her survive for more than a year.

    Reply
    1. Olivia
      Olivia at |

      To avoid bugs in the flour, use salt or vinager when you do it and it is cold.

      Reply
    2. Aryea
      Aryea at |

      Hi, Jonni! It’s Aryea, the float guy again. I’m working on a large papier mache project right now, and have had problems like Jay has with bugs in the past. (Maybe one reason is that I tend to use “buggy” flour in the first place. Hey, I paid for it. I might not be able to eat it, so I might as well get some use out of it, right? ;) ) Freezing is one way to kill the bugs in it, another is to heat it in a low (200 deg.) oven for about an hour. This will kill both bugs and eggs in the flour. But this doesn’t stop them from coming in afterwards and chowing down on the paper and glue, especially if this is a decoration that will be stored outside. Down here in the South we have a problem with water bugs. (If you’re not aware of them, these things are huge cockroaches that get in everywhere- they’ve even found them in operating rooms. But not to worry, for some reason, they tend to die once they come in.) They live in the trees and eat dead wood and leaf moulds. And paper being made from wood is a tasty snack for them. And the flour glue is just icing on the cake. I’ve made some outside decorations in the past and lost them in storage to water bugs, silverfish, and even mice. Mice don’t eat them of course, but they do like to live in them. So to prevent all of this, I’ve had to get creative to prevent this from happening. The idea that Prokopis had to add pyrethrins to the flour is actually a good idea. Pyrethrin is one of the most environmentally friendly of the insect poisons out there. It’s made from chrysanthemums, and is harmless to people and domestic animals. I wouldn’t recommend sprinkling it on your morning cereal, but it’s okay in papier mache. I’ve also found that bugs don’t like white glues (PVA) like Elmer’s very much. So I always mix a bunch of this into my flour glue. You can also use a few drops of citronella or spearmint oil in your mix to keep the bugs and mice away. Since oil and water don’t mix very well, I’ve found a couple of teaspoons of lecithin (which you can find in a health food store) will allow the oil to mix with with the water-based glues.

      Reply
  37. greenmomma
    greenmomma at |

    Hi Jonni
    I am wondering what consistancy the gesso should have, mine looks rather strange, it is a bit like the result of a lot of cornstarch and water. it is both rubbery to apply and then drippy once it is on, even when i spread it really thin. I couldnt find any elmers “glue all” but on the lepage glue website it said carenters glue is a pva glue as well, and i bought that. is that what is messing this up or should it really have this bizzare texture?

    Reply
  38. Kay
    Kay at |

    Hi!

    I was interested in making bangles with 7-11 year old girls using your paper mache paste. You mention the gesso will give the paste a very smooth finish. Will mod podge work just as well as the gesso?

    Reply
    1. Taria Lorehand
      Taria Lorehand at |

      I can answer that one :). No, mod pod will not work as good as the Gesso, the Gesso is thicker and fills in the holes better. mod pod is to thin and will wet down your project meaning for each layer you put on, it will require extra drying time. Go with the Gesso, one shot no extra drying time required. (except for the drying of the Gesso) Hope that helps.

      trust me you learn things from trial and error and there was more error than anything..:)

      Reply
  39. Mike
    Mike at |

    Also would it be advantageous to do a few layers then let them dry then do a few more or do them all at once for stronger bonds in the drying process? Thanks again.

    Reply
  40. Mike
    Mike at |

    Two questions:

    1) How big can I realistically cut the newspaper strips to?
    I am making a muppet head for a costume and a 16″ ballon. I am going with 7 layers and am on round two after a drying disaster.

    2) how does the oven method work? Per information seen elsewhere I put the oven on 200 and when I checked 15 minutes later the heat had caused the ballon to expand and the project had to be scrapped. I’d like to avoid that again so what is the best way to speed the process of drying? I’d like to have it covered and dried Ina day. Thank you.

    Reply
  41. Taria Lorehand
    Taria Lorehand at |

    how long does the gesso last after you make it? does it need to be stored in the frig?

    Reply
  42. Leslie
    Leslie at |

    how long do you let your paper mache clay dry?

    How long doew the gesso take to dry?

    Can you paint over the dried paper mache clay?

    Im running out of time for my project.

    Reply
  43. Bryan
    Bryan at |

    We are making a mike costume from monsters inc and using a medicine ball as the shape. How many layers newspaper would you suggest putting on?

    Reply
    1. Bryan
      Bryan at |

      Sorry, we are using a large exercise ball as the shape of the costume. We have already done 4 layers, and thinking that we need somewhere between 6-7. When we deflate the ball, will it get stuck to the sides and cause the ball itself to crumble?

      Reply
  44. Amanda
    Amanda at |

    Can someone please help me?? I took a lot of time to make some paper mache letters for my son’s room. He was sick recently, and I put a humidifier in his room without even thinking about it until today. A couple of the letters are slightly softer, indicating they’ve dampened and one has mold on it. :( I sealed everything *except* for the back of the letters. Is there ANY way to salvage them or is this a lost cause? I regret my mistake immensely and would love to hear any feedback.

    Thank you!

    Reply
    1. Carolyn
      Carolyn at |

      Hi I have 2 things I have done since I have also made this mistake.First remove them from this room as I am sure you have already done Let them harden again and Than get A small can of Kilz (hardware store) it is used for getting rid of mold and such.Brush on the kilz 3 times let each coat dry in between Then repaint them ((sorry you’ll have to redo that)).Also after you have painted them again get a laquer to seal in the paint it will make them shine and also keep out any moisture.Make sure you do the backs of them too. Hope this helps.

      Reply
  45. Shira Griffin
    Shira Griffin at |

    Question: If I want to bring my paper mache creations into a humid 105 degree room for 90+ min, will this gesso be enough? There will be a great deal of sweating happening. Halloween in the Bikram yoga hot room and I want to be Kali, the Goddess of time, change, destruction, violence, and salvation. I’ll be making a garland of severed heads and some extra arms (fixed somehow to my back), maybe a skirt of severed arms, and a crown…. maybe I’m in over my head. Any thoughts?
    Thank you,
    Shira

    Reply
  46. Nancy
    Nancy at |

    Thank you! I love this site. I was wondering if anyone had made a paper mache wastebasket. If so can you share some directions with me? Thank you!!

    Reply
  47. Nancy
    Nancy at |

    I want to make a giant head for a Halloween costume (it is a cartoon character: Pops) any ideas on how I can get that shape and what paint to use? It is for my teenage son and the head should come down to the middle of his chest. I have not used paper mache in awhile and am looking forward to trying.
    Thanks in advance for your help!

    Reply
  48. rosa
    rosa at |

    I want to make a costume for my husband for Halloween. It is the cartoon character Pops. He has a huge head that should come down to the middle of my husbands chest. I think I am going to use paper mache. Any ideas on how I can get the form of a head that big or the process in making it. I have never used paper mache (or made a costume) before and am anxious to try my hand at it.
    Thanks in advance!

    Reply
  49. Steve
    Steve at |

    Hi

    I love your site…it has been since grade school that I have worked with Paper Mache. My daughter wants to be a disco ball for Halloween. So I am using a beach ball as the “armature”, but as it drys it does not seem very durable. I plan on adding several layers because the end piece will be cut into two halves. I am using the Boiled Water method. Should I use the Raw Method instead. Also, as the project dries I am putting the “glue” mixture in the fridge…is that okay?

    Reply
  50. emily
    emily at |

    I need to make a paper mache person, and I was just wondering how long it would need to dry.

    Reply

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