Daily Sculptors

Daily Sculptors Group Page

This is the new official page for the unofficial “Daily Sculptors Group.” Join the challenge to sculpt something every single day — and stay focused on improving your craft among friends.

The challenge is to do the work every single day. It isn’t about creating something that is perfectly finished or gallery-ready. If you show us your daily work it may encourage others to submit theirs, and together we might be able to vanquish Resistance and Procrastination, at least for one more day.

If you want to join us, use the comment section of this page as a journal. Share some of the challenges and insights that you gain from your work, and show off what you made today. Upload photos of your work, so we can see what you’ve been up to. If your images are too big, you can resize them quickly using this free online picture resizer.




  • Kevin Doheny recently sent me links to two of his latest videos, and I wanted to make sure you all see them. For the first video, he told me: I decided to make this armature because I wanted something without a human face on it, that I can use and re-use with sculpting clay to make all kinds of different animal masks. Sculpting heads and armatures can be very expensive to buy, so this was quick, easy and cheap to make, and it can be made larger or smaller (any size) depending on your needs.


    And he just recently made a video showing how he used one of his armatures to make a zebra mask:


  • Update on horse head project: Now mounted on a piece of hardboard after making a rooky error and using cardboard which warped with the PM on it!!

    I’m going to cover the board with a thin layer of air dried clay and try to add some sculpted flowers or something to the background!

    Jonni how many layers of clay should I use on the head? Is one enough?

    • Hi Colette. He’s looking really nice already! One thin layer of the original pm clay should be plenty. I think that would be enough if you’re using the air-dry clay recipe, too, since it looks like there will be a strong support underneath.

      I can’t wait to see it when it’s done!

      • Is it possible to post a comment from a phone without hitting reply?
        Thanks for your help getting started Jonni – completed my first project today.

        • I don’t have a smart phone, so I don’t know the answer. Some people say they have problems uploading images from iPhones. Can someone else help Elaine?

    • In 1991, the girls and I dressed up as cowboys for Halloween at work. My boss had told me, “No horses tied up outside.” So I decided to make a life size horse out of cardboard, complete with a real saddle. My husband was very understanding every night when I got home I would work on him, turning our living room upside down with cardboard, quilt batting and hot glue. If I only would have know about paper mache and all of the possibilities for my horse Fred. haha

  • Well, after trial and error and “fixing” this or that.. Laughing Horse is nearly complete and my daughter LOVES her birthday gift.. I still want to adjust the white patch on the nose, and I need to seal her before I attach the hat… but here she is :) The first picture is a close up of an eye after a trip to the Dollar store for fake lashes, and the next one next to that is a picture of her mane using Pedro’s Toilet Paper technique.
    We are waiting on the oval wooden plaque to come to stain it and mount her too, so she can hang.
    Jonni, if you have mentioned in your videos, I have mentioned it, but if you don’t mount your heads to a wooden plaque, how and what do you use on the back to hang them on a wall?
    Thanks so much :)

    • He turned out great, Becky! What a nice present for your daughter. As for the plaque, I use a saw tooth picture hanger on the back of the plaque itself, and I attach my heads to the plaques with hot glue. However, your horse’s head may need something stronger, since the weight of the nose end could pull the glue off the plaque. You might need some epoxy glue, or liquid nails, or something like that. Someone who works with wood might have a good suggestion for you.

      • Thank you Jonni.
        I need to get a better frontal picture, tomorrow after work, so you can see the horses bucked teeth LOL
        Actually, he isn’t that heavy… I took and split him and removed all the armature cardboard and newspaper once all layers of the original newspaper paper mache’ layers were dry, because it was VERY heavy. I then pieced it back together with a little plaster cloth I had on hand, like I have seen you do in your video’s :)

        But, to play it safe, we have ordered a larger oval plaque than what was really needed to help disperse weight on the wall. I plan on using a heavy duty glue to attach it to the plaque once it’s stained and dried :)

  • So, I learned something new today. All of the patinas used on the iron metal coatings will make the rust look. I had tried a blue patina over the iron coating and it turned the sculpture to rust. It is not a bad look but I thought something had gone wrong. I wound up calling the Sculpt Nouveau people(who are very nice and helpful) and found out that is just what the iron coating does. If you want the blue, you need to use the bronze, copper or brass metal coating. In Jonni’s raven sculpture video, she did say the tiffany green patina would make a rusty look, well, it does the same with a blue patina. Just thought I would share my new knowledge. Happy sculpting!

      • Sorry if I’m being a bit thick Jonni but am not sure where to put my post? hope this is o.k. I am in uk and after trying many types of paper only clays my favourite is Creative Paperclay (made in Japan, in black packet with horsehead on!) but as I make large pieces am finding it quite expensive. I have tried making my own with your recipe but dont think I break down the paper well enough to get the fine, slightly textured result I get when I buy/use the Creative Paperclay. Do you know where I can buy this in bulk at a good price? do you have a recipe that can give the same result if I e.g persevere with my mixing technique? Sorry to cross examine you :-( Attaching my latest sculpture that I made for my wedding. My hubby is from the coast hence the seagull, I love a bit of sillyness!

        • Hi Heather. This is the perfect place for your comment! and I love the sculpture, by the way.

          I just did a fast search on Google and found the Creative Paperclay available wholesale direct from the manufacturer, at $6 a pound, which seems to be about half retail. It’s even less expensive here, but you have to “join,” which looks kind of expensive. There were many more results in the google search, but you’d probably want to do your search with the UK Google version, to cut down on shipping costs.

          There are a few things I’ve been thinking about adding to the air dry clay recipe, based on some ideas offered by another reader. (I’ll try to find her comment, and add a link.) She suggested cooking the starch ingredients at least a little, to cause them to gel. She also suggested using some beeswax, and some form of drying oil. I think – I really do need to go back and find that comment! A bit of added powdered ceramic clay might also help. You do need to mix as long as you can, and you may even want to run the mixer through the toilet paper while it’s still sitting in the soaking water, to help break up the paper.

          • Thank you for your detailed reply Jonni, it also means a lot to me when you say you like my work, thank you. I have searched Google uk but only find the clay cheaper in America but as you say the shipping then ups the total price! I am apprehensive about making clay myself encase I spend time doing it (with all the mess!) just to find I dont get a good result like the last time I tried.
            Do you think fine pieces of paper only clays are strong? Have pinched some thin edges on sculptures made from air dry clay and they break so easily when dry.

          • If the Creative Paperclay is available in stores in the UK, maybe a store employee would let you know what distributor they purchase from. It’s always possible…

            I’ve noticed that even with my own air dry clay (and slightly less with the original paper mache clay) thin edges can easily break if they’re dropped or bumped. Perhaps a way around that with commercially available products is to use a less expensive air-dry clay for large body parts that aren’t in vulnerable positions, and use Apoxie Clay for ears and items that stick out. It’s expensive, but if you only need a tiny amount per sculpture, it might be a way to reduce the overall cost.

          • Thank you for your nice comments and thank you again Jonni, so nice to be able to ask for help on this site, really appreciate it. Will try what you suggest. Have been getting little fine bits breaking off this sculpture around where the clock parts are but I actually don’t mind on this one as its supposed to look ragged and torn here and there, e.g legs! Haven’t finished it yet.

      • I think I will wait to see how it turns out. The weather has been humid and rainy here so I can not go out and finish it. I always do any spraying outdoors. It is not too exciting- it is another pair of theater masks. The original was so well received that I thought I would do another to maybe put in a show. I did post the original masks several weeks ago. Have you ever noticed that if you try to replicate a successful sculpture, it never turns out as well? Is it our fickle nature, always wanting new and different? Who knows?

        • Your theater masks are beautiful, Eileen. I remember them well. And yes, sadly, it’s hard to replicate a successful sculpture. If I don’t like a sculpture and do it over, it usually comes out better. And yet, many professional painters seem to do the same things (almost) over and over again, and they just keep getting better. Maybe a psychologist could explain it? :)

  • Jonni, I am working on my bear and decided I would like to put a log in the small of his back. I thought it would look cute if he was leaning against it. Any ideas on how to design a log? Thanks.

    • Heh – I’d probably “cheat” and go find a piece of wood that was the right shape and size, and use it for a model for the sculpture. The basic shapes could be made with rolled cardboard taped together, and perhaps pieces of cardboard cut and pasted on to create the grooves for the bark. Then add paper mache.

      I really like the idea of using the log as part of the sculpture, by the way. It should make the sculpture feel more natural.

      • Hi Jonni,

        I really messed up. This morning when I got up, I noticed that the clay looked really different on my bear that I applied last night. I just figured out what I did wrong. I forgot the joint compound! I can’t believe I left it out, what will happen now? Can I go over it without tearing it apart or will it fall apart? Help! :)

        • Oops! I don’t actually know what will happen, but if it’s drying, I would wait until it’s totally dry all the way through before doing anything else. You could then test it to see if it seems to be hard and strong – maybe it will work OK without the joint compound. What you made is similar to the traditional paper pulp recipes, which use paper and some form of glue or paste. (In fact, the only difference is that you used both glue and paste, but it may not matter). If you don’t like the way it looks when it’s dry, or if it isn’t smooth enough or hard enough, just mix up a new batch of the pm clay with all the ingredients and use a thin coat of it over your sculpture to give it a harder skin.

          But don’t get too worried until after your bear is completely dry. It really might work just fine without doing anything at all. And if it does, you just invented a new recipe. Keep us posted!

          • Thank you, I’ll do exactly as you said and wait. I was so upset this morning when I realized what I did. You’re the best and I’ll keep you posted. I think I’ll start another project. One of the ladies wants a polar bear so I think I will start on that. You know, making these little guys becomes quite additive!

    • Hi Jonni,

      Well I let it dry and it worked fine. I put another later of clay (with all ingredients) and here it is.

  • Hi Jonni and everyone,
    My second project is an elephant. My friend asked for her to have hot pink nail polish, lol. The butterfly is made out of paper, bread tie wire and hot glue. I just finished her today and am starting a bear from your pattern Jonni. I have to say that I am having so much fun with these little critters and love seeing all of the talented people posting on your site. :)

  • Hi, Jonni. I’m Dennis from the Philippines. I do paper mache as a hobby but I’d like to make a career out of it. The photo below is my current project. He is a “Tikbalang”, a man with a horse’s head. He is one of several folklore characters here. He is made out of wire as armature and mashed paper from the core out so, he is much like a solid piece of wood. The core consist of paper and PVA glue. The “skin” will be a paper mache clay consisting of paper, PVA glue and Joint compound only. He is approximately 3 ft tall and weighs 50 lbs. I will post an update next week. Regards.

    • Very nice, Dennis! You’re getting some amazing detail. Do you have a website yet for your sculpting business?

  • Hi. I have a question about the “clay” I have made, like yours: I noticed that it has a very odd smell to it (3 days out). Will the smell go away? will it get worse? Should I start my projects over?

    • Hi Irene. If you used linseed oil, is that what you’re smelling? Or is it an odor that started after the sculptures were finished but not yet dry? I haven’t personally noticed a strong or odd smell when I use the pm clay, but different brands of products may smell differently, and I haven’t’ tried them all. If the problem is a mold or other living thing that’s growing in the wet clay, I would advise drying the clay as quickly as you can. If possible, put them out in the sun, or put them in front of a fan, or in a warm oven, around 200F (no hotter than that). If the mold or (?) dies, the smell may go away, but I can’t promise that, since this isn’t something I’ve ever experienced.

  • Jonni,

    I have been using your wonder paper clay recipe for about a year. I have finished several pieces and now have a longevity questions regarding the paper clay over time. What is the oldest work you have using the recipe? Are there any cracks or fissures in the clay which arise over time?

    I want to thank you for inspiring me to return to making sculpture. You have been a true catalyst for the artist in me to come back out.

    Thank you again and I look forward to your answers.
    Madelene Varalli

    • Hi Madelene. My bobcat, ghost cat, and lion cubs were all made a few weeks after I developed the paper mache clay recipe, in October 2009. I gave most of the first sculptures away, but I still have the bobcat. He spent several years in Eastern Oregon, a dry inter-mountain area, and has been in the humid Midwest for the last three years. There are no cracks or fissures. In fact, he looks just exactly the same as he did on the day he was finished. As with any paper-based sculpture, it’s really important to seal the sculpture well with a good varnish to protect it from humidity in the air. I just use a standard matte acrylic varnish for this purpose, and it seems to do the job. I can’t really say if the recipe is “archival” though, because I don’t have access to the kind of laboratory that would be needed for that kind of testing.

      I love your work, by the way. Congratulations on being invited to display your work in so many galleries.

      • Thank you so much for your response Jonni, and for taking the time to look at my work. I really appreciate it. I am frequently asked where I buy the paper clay from and am so happy every time I can refer someone to your wonderful site and Youtube videos!!! I can’t thank you enough.

  • My horse head is coming along (of course, my daughters birthday is in 2 days and it will be no where near done… to many hours of trying to work on it over tired and ripping apart what I had done the day before because I didn’t like it :/

    Anyway, Now that I got 10 hours of sleep last night and stopped trying to figure this or that out and started asking myself “what have I seen Jonni do to “fix” things” I have a new game plan that seems to be going much better today.
    I have named my horse head project “Laughing Horse” and when she is done you will see why… but for now, I am sharing this picture of her eyes as her nose and mouth are in my oven drying because my daughter is out spending birthday money that is just burning a hole in her pocket!! LOL

    • Becky, your horse’s eyes are beautiful! Did you tell your daughter about the horse, or will it still be a (slightly late) surprise?

      • It will be a surprise tomorrow night for her :) Although, Now that I see it, Her Dad and I are thinking about maybe making it into a bedside lamp for her, but, there will be time to decide that as it dries before I can paint it :)

      • Jonni,
        I forgot to add in my earlier comment that the eyes are clear glass cabochons that I painted the eyes on the flat (back) side and then sealed the paint with 2 coats of clear nail polish before hot gluing into the “eye sockets”
        Here is a few photos of some failed (but well worth it for the learning curve) experiments of some dragon eyes I was trying out, to show how well they work. I bought them at my local “Everything is a Dollar” store. But, I have found, if you don’t like the eye, you can peel the paint off, or use nail polish remover depending on the type of paint you have used and start over so the cabochon isn’t wasted :)

  • Hi Everyone

    I thought I’d introduce myself, my name is Colette and I live in Norwich in the UK. I may need a lot of help in the coming weeks as I am very new to this and have started my first project, a horses head. I will upload some pictures soon.

    Can I ask a question though, what paints or finishes do you prefer to work with and why? I am not sure on the finish for my project, I cant decide whether to use coloured paper, printed paper (like decoupage) glossy paint or a bronze effect!! Any of these I think would work well, but would like some advise. Thank you.

    • I Colette. Welcome! I personally use acrylic paint most often, but I’ve also used colored paper and metal coatings here and here. I’ve also combined acrylic paint and metal coatings, when I made my rhino, but I didn’t make a video of the process since I was just experimenting. And we have two guest posts showing work done with printed paper, here and here. So my advice is – use whatever you think would be most fun this time, and feel free to try something else next time. There’s no “best” way to do it.

      I can’t wait to see your horse’s head.

      • Thanks Jonni, some lovely ideas there, guess I will just have to make a decision :-) . Here’s where I have got to so far. I’ve used a paper 3-d armature, and added details with newspaper and foil, then covering with masking tape. Just need to add the eyes. Im pretty sure I will then use the paper mache clay to cover.

        • Colette,
          I searched and search for a paper 3-D horse head and had no luck finding one on the internet. It looks wonderful! I am working on a horse head myself, but my armature was made of cardboard and newspaper … I can’t wait to see how nice yours turns out :)

        • Project has changed a bit! I now only have half a horses head! Thought I would mount it side on, on a back board which I could then decorate. Bit of creating as I go along sort of thing :-)

          • I’m so glad I’m not the only one who changes her mind halfway through a project! I do hope you’ll show us how it comes out – and how you mount it to the board.

          • Colette,
            I missed your reply until just now.. TY so much! I can’t wait to see how your project turns out! :)

  • Oooh love the piggy and the horsehead.

    In between whilst still working on the pygmy goat I also started working on a papermache tree house for the garden. It will be a challenge to weather proof it without varnish. I may use some leftover paint or will experiment with coconut oil or some other waxy material to see what I can achieve. Very experimental, another first. There are people who make bags etc with paper by braiding and weaving it and then use wax to water and touch proof it so they can actually be used so I’m interested to see what I can come up with that would do similar.

    • I can’t wait to see how your experiment turns out. I hope it works better than any of the products I’ve tried using to waterproof paper mache. All of my attempts have been disasters. Good luck!

  • Hi Jonni,
    Love your work, you inspired me to try. My friend collects pigs and her birthday is coming up so I thought I would give it a try. Here is the pig I made for her. I have already decided I would do a few things different on my next try. Thanks!

  • My friend Kim collects Pigs. After seeing your website, you inspired me to try to make a pig for her birthday. It is my first attempt and I already know a few things I would do different on my next project. I had a lot of fun creating this little pig and thought it would be cute if he had a flower in his mouth. Thanks Jonni, love your talent!

  • I have been trying to work out in a shed to make a trophy type wall hanging of a horses head for my daughter, to be a gift on her 14th birthday next week. I don’t think I will reach that goal due to work schedule, extreme heat and humidity slowing down the drying time… but today I am rushing to get as many PM layers on as I can and allowing a few minutes of sun in between each layer…. it’s not perfect by any means, but I am hoping with some luck and some PM clay later this week, I can hide some of the boo boo’s :)
    I’ll post another picture later this week and then again of the final project :)

    • Becky, it looks like you got a good start. It looks good to me. Having tried to make 6 “horses,” I know it can be a challenge. Look forward to your finished project.

      (One thing we don’t have to deal with here in Utah is the humidity!)

    • It’s looking good, Becky. Sometimes, sculptures just take their own time and refuse to be rushed – but your daughter might have fun watching you finish it after her birthday.

      • Thank you Rex and Jonni,
        I have 7 to 9 layers (I lost count) but I alternated printed newspaper and the plain newspaper print paper off a roll to make sure I was covering it equally, and my “fool proof” method of being able to count the layers failed LOL

        I finished the layers last night about 8 pm and it sat for 24 hours, in the shed with a fan and when I went out after work tonight, it was like cement! I am going to let it sit another day and then go out and try to remove some of my “filler” and cardboard to allow air to get in from the inside for a day before starting to sculpt it’s face. I am getting excited to see if it turns out as good as I what I see in my mind to create :)

    • Very nice, Rex. Loki should be glad Regina isn’t real, with all those teeth! How did you make those teeth, by the way – if you don’t mind telling us.

      • Thanks, Jonni. I made the teeth and the toenails with Super Sculptey clay. I formed them, of course, and then baked them. I got the idea from this site, of course. I found that the clay is too brittle for my working habits (I’m too rough). You can see a toenail or two where the ends are broken off. A few of the teeth have the sharp ends broken off. If someone has a better idea, I’m all ears.

        The miracle is that she stands on two feet with no other support!

        • I actually like the idea of broken nails and teeth on a fellow like this – it makes him more natural. I’ve been thinking about using some Apoxie Sculpt for the nails on my raccoon, but I’ve never used the stuff and I don’t know if it would be easier than Sculpey or not.

          And yes – you did a great job getting him to balance. That isn’t easy, is it?

          • Jonni, the Sculpey was easy. I had the feet finished before doing the nails, so it wasn’t difficult making them fit the feet.

            I see. I think having them painted first would have made it a lot easier (and cleaner). Thanks for that idea.

            I removed some of the paper and aluminum foil out of the head to make her stand up. I am still amazed that it actually worked.

          • So Apoxie is really easy to use. I love this stuff, but it is extremely expensive. More then 1.5 times sculpey.

            The thing I love most about it is that it is extremely strong. You don’t have to wait a long time for it to set up, and it can be extremely smooth if you put a little water on your finger/glove and smooth it across. The working time on it is about an hour whereas others are much much longer. (2 part sculpting clay tends to run more toward the 4 hours to get from squishy to solid enough to work with, but then the time between then and cracking is really rapid)

            Were it me I think I would tend to use an air dry clay for teeth and toes. Much less expensive I would think. (something like this http://www.amazon.com/AMACO–Pound-Clay-Moist-Gray/dp/B0009RRTA8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435522536&sr=8-2&keywords=air+dry+clay – or your recipe version of it)

          • Hi Jonni, your work is so impressive and I’ve watched all your videos. Great! Just tried Apoxie Sculpt to make a “shelf” to fit under a large canvas which will hold 3D art. It was a struggle to mix a large amount of A and B parts together as they are really stiff ingredients. I had to hurry to shape it because the clock starts ticking as soon as you begin. Thought I’d have 3 hours working time, but the directions said 1-3 hrs. so I really had to hustle to get finished. What a workout. It cured in 24 hours and is solid. I ordered 4 lbs. and used more than 1/2 for a 24″ x 6″ slab, less than 1/2″ thick. I won’t spend the big bucks again. Probably best for little projects. Very expensive, but the service was great.

            Second– what went wrong? I made your new air dry clay recipe for the 3D art piece. DISASTER! No clue what went wrong. The same TP, joint compound (not DAP), Elmer’s all purpose glue, baby oil, flour, cornstarch. I used the gram scale, measuring wet/dry. The only thing that comes to mind is that I used the dry measuring cup for all the ingredients. Should I have used the liquid measuring cup for the Elmer’s? It was smooth but horribly sticky. I dumped it on the counter with cornstarch and attempted to knead it, but that just got worse. Added more flour…and flour…then more cornstarch. It stuck extremely well to everything except the armature. After adding so much flour it became a high-gluten product, but nothing made it like clay. Barely able to remove the remainder from the countertop. Can you offer any suggestions? Thanks, Vicki

          • Hi Vicki. I’m not sure what could have gone wrong with the air dry clay recipe. Has anyone else had this problem with it? Any suggestions?

        • Rex, my first question when I saw your dragon was, how did you get her to stand? Can you share your secret? I did a bird (toucan) once and had trouble getting it to stand without falling over. I had to use it’s tail to help support it.

          • Pearl, I’ve done many paper mache projects and not many have stood on two feet. I do have a bird about 18″ tall in the bathroom that stands on its legs. I believe one thing that helps is having the feet offset a bit to give it a broader center.

            I began with the legs mostly using aluminum foil because I believe it adds strength and weight to the legs. Even though the weight may not be equal between the front and the back, the weight gives it a heavier base and a lower sense of gravity. When I worked on the head, I used aluminum foil again. Next I worked down the tail until the last little bit because I did not know if I would need to extend it to the ground for support.

            She had a tendency to fall over if I didn’t put her down slowly and carefully, so I cut open parts of the head and took out aluminum foil — I took out all the foil in the lower jaw. I’m not a physicist, but it worked.

            I wish I had a more scientific approach, but I’m so glad she is solid and doesn’t fall over with a whiff of wind! Thanks. I hope this is of some help.

          • Thanks Rex. I think I understand. This is how I made my Toucan stand up. The base is not attached. I have not built up enough courage to paint it as yet.

          • (This got a little longer than I expected, but if you’re having trouble with air dry clay, this was my solution. It works perfect for me every time.)

            Vicki, I can relate to your challenges with air dry clay. I worked at it for over a year and was very frustrated. (At times it was perfect, at other times too sticky, other times too dry.) One day I sat down and watched Jonni’s session on how to make air dry clay. It is very straightforward and clear; however, I watched it five times. I had a little revelation in it where she pinched the clay, “like this,” and the squeezed part stayed.

            Anyway, I know people like different textures of clay, so what I did was buy a gram scale. Using that scale, this is how I make my “perfect” clay every time. Just remember that there is a great deal of flexibility in the texture:

            I put an empty bowl on the scale and zero the weight. I add the toilet paper — I take 24 g dry paper and soak it in hot water and squeeze out the water to 110 g wet paper. I break up the toilet paper as I put it in the bowl.

            I zero the scale and add 130 g Elmers All Purpose Glue.
            I zero the scale and add 200 g of Joint Compound.
            I zero the scale and add 35 g Baby Oil.
            I zero the scale and add 70 g of Corn Starch.

            At this point I whip the above ingredients together until they are blended really well. (At times I whip the mixture before I even add the Corn Starch.)

            I zero the scale and add 70 g of flour. At this point I have to change the beaters on the mix master because the clay is too thick (the clay gets pulled up into the machine). I use the long single-stemmed beaters, whatever they are called!

            At this point I put another 70 g of flour into a cup. I put it next to my working space and sprinkle some on the surface. I SLOWLY kneed the clay, adding flour on the working surface to keep it from sticking, until it looks like Jonni’s clay in her video. I try and resist adding any more flour than what is in the cup, but the ultimate test is when I squeeze the clay between my fingers and it puckers and does not flop over and does not stick (too much). (Sticky clay is really difficult for me to work with.)

            I make sure the air dry clay goes in a zip lock baggie and keep it closed, sticking my tool into the bag as I apply the clay. It has a tendency to dry out quickly. I keep it in the refrigerator, and it will usually last a week or so, but I never make a batch until I am ready to use it because fresh seems better.

            I hope this helps. Good luck.

            (I love working air dry clay with my fingers.)

          • JONNI, thanks for your speedy reply. I had another thought about the ingredients in the mixture. I used a wallboard joint compound (interior) purchased at Bi-Mart, not the one sold by Walmart which you mentioned. I’d like to know if anyone has used joint compound from Bi-Mart. Maybe it’s a generic brand made by DAP. What were the results when you used DAP and decided it wasn’t good for smooth air-dry clay?

          • That could be the problem. DAP does make store brands – you can usually tell by looking at the back of the label. The problem I ran into with the DAP brand is that the mixture gets sort of rubbery. The first time I tried it, I got little rubber balls. (Someone told me the boron in the joint compound mixed with the glue is good for making home-made Flubber – but that wasn’t what I was after). Recently I tried another batch of pm clay using DAP, in a different year and a different part of the country, and it almost worked. It was stiffer than I liked, and it hardened too fast in the bowl, which pm clay doesn’t usually do. But I managed to make something with it, anyway.

            If your mixture fell somewhere between those two extremes, your joint compound may have been made by DAP. There was a B-Mart in La Grande, OR, where I used to live, and their store brand was made by DAP. Do you have any other hardware or paint store in town that might have a different brand that you could try?

          • Your toucan is great! Good thinking about using the tail to hold it up. If you have a bird with a smaller tail or you need it to go upwards, here is what I do. This is only if you are planning on using a base of some sort. When I make the armature for the legs and feet, I usually use 2 pieces of a clothes hanger twisted together. I make the leg wire longer than what is called for. Then I place the feet where they belong and leave a stub of twisted wire underneath. When done, I can then drill holes into a base and use that stub to place it in. I use 5 minute epoxy glue to keep it there for good. It is very sturdy.
            If you are afraid of “painting” the toucan, why not try one of the faux metal coatings like bronze or the iron coating. Jonni showed us how on her ballarina bunny and on her raven. You certainly have a ton of detail on your sculpture and that could bring those details out. Whatever you decide, I am sure it will be beautiful. Happy sculpting!

      • After the teeth were baked, I used a hot glue gun to attach them to the cardboard gums. My biggest challenge on this one was to make the upper jaw, add paper mache, add the tongue, add paper mache, and then lower jaw, add paper mache on that. I couldn’t see a way that I was going to add paper mache in that small space. So any advice is always welcome.

        • I’ve never made an open-mouthed creature with big teeth, but Dan Reeder makes a lot of them. I think he completely finishes the insides of both the top and bottom jaw, including painting them, and then puts them all together. As soon as I find my copy of his book, I’ll go look up that chapter and see how he does it. You might find it in one of his videos, but they do go kind of fast.

        • Nice job on your Rex, Rex. Ha! I knew you would like the pun. Anyway, I have made claws with Jonni’s smooth air dry clay. I make them beforehand and let them dry. Then when I do the feet, I put a thicker layer of the clay and then just push the claws into the clay and let them dry. That could work with your teeth as well whether you choose to use the sculpty clay or the air dry clay. Put a layer of clay into the mouth, then carefully place the teeth into the clay. It should hold if there is not too much manipulation. Resist the urge to fiddle with them and let it dry. You could then go back after it is dry to smooth any areas or add more clay if desired. Painting will still be difficult though, you could try to paint them first, then make sure your hand is perfectly clean before you insert the teeth. Just my thoughts. Nice sculpture though, plenty of character.

          • Eileen, thanks for the pun! I like the idea of using the air dry clay. Next time I will try that. I am a spastic at times when it comes to moving pieces around. I tend to break off feet when going through doorways, smashing noses, breaking ears. So I need a better methodical approach. (One of the reasons I have these problems is because my dog drags me outside, then inside, outside, etc. So there are many trips in and out.)

        • Oh, Pearl, I love the Toucan. I’m am jealous and envious at the same time. Absolutely smashing! I need to try that. I need 3 or 5 of them hanging around the house. (I’m actually afraid if I begin doing birds I’ll never quit!)

          I tried to PIN it, but it wouldn’t work.

          I understand about the painting. I made a pterodactyl months ago and can’t seem to get it painted. I’ve made three projects since and still can’t get the color scheme in my head. I don’t think you’ll go wrong, however. Great! Thanks so much.

          • Rex for the ears you could try building up around a piece of plastic bottle. I have used half bottles for both the deer and the calf and it makes them less vunerable. And because of the curve of the bottle it gives a nice base shape too. I like moving works around too and it helps if it isn’t just clay or paper mache at tails and ears and things that stick out.

          • Thank you Rex and Eileen for the encouragement and advice.

            The Toucan is my first bird and I love all birds because they are so colorful and expressive. I will surely remember what you said when I do another bird (soon I hope). My aim is an eagle in flight, but for now I will practice on other birds. Where I live in the Caribbean, our national bird is the scarlet ibis which is a beautiful bird. I hope to do that some day as well.

        • JONNI, Thank you for your feedback. As you recommended, I checked the fine print on the back of the bucket. Phenomenal Brands. Unclear if they are manufacturers or distributors. Nothing about DAP. The warning label got my attention, regarding calcium carbonate and crystalline silica. No boron listed so that dashes all my dreams of Flubber production. There are plenty of home improvements stores in Eugene, so it won’t be hard to find something else. Wish I’d thought to use some of that mineral oil on the mixer parts and the bowl before I started, to make clean up easier. My Apoxie Sculpt “shelf” project would make a better skateboard than as part of my art. Not what I was aiming for. On the plus side, it’s hard as a rock and impervious to the elements. Pretty sure it will outlast me. Looking forward to your next video. They are excellent!! You really bring your sculpted animals to life with those wonderful, realistic eyes. Very impressive work.

  • A sneak preview on the little paper mache goat marionette out of waste and rest materials I’m working on now. Never made or played marionette before (except for a two string simple bird one as a child) so lots to learn and to discover to make it work.

    Updates and descriptions can be found by clicking on my name and going to the respective albums photo.

    • Wow – you already have your goat started! I like the way you cut the leg patterns so the pose works whether standing or lying down. He’s going to be fantastic when he’s done. I can’t wait to see it.

    • Soul, you are the life of the party. You always think outside the box and bring a level of creativity that I admire. This looks like a great beginning and I can’t wait to see more of her.

  • Hi, Jonni and All. I watched so many of your videos and was so excited to get started with my own animal. I researched the Florida Panther for a long time before I got up the nerve to get started. I did this today. I am going to have to trim before I start adding newspaper and tape. I will post the finished product when it is done.

  • Hi Jonni, how are you?
    Let me show you my latest, a bird pretending or forced to look as a turtle.
    Made this piece for a friend of mine and since you also made a turlte some weeks(?) ago, thought on sharing.
    Material and technique wise it is made with the usual paper stipes on balloon, rubber balls, toilet paper, cardboard, air drying modeling paste, liquid cold porcelain, acrilic paint and varnish
    Hope it uploads :)
    Thanks :)

  • Hi Everyone,
    I thought you might like see another of my sculptures. This one was fun and easy to do. I titled this “Who opened that can of Worms?”

  • I’ve been sculpting since 2007 and been trying out different materials to sculpt with and tried out paper clay about three years ago. A year ago I wanted to try incorporating sculpture, illustration and photography and see what I could come up with. As a graphic designer, illustrator and sculptor, I also do a single panel cartoon which is what inspired this sculpture illustration. The main bodies were made with paper clay and the arms, eyes, nose and scooper were made out of Super Sculpey then painted with acrylic paints I had sitting around. After the ‘photo-shoot’ I brought the image into Photoshop to make some color adjustments. Even though it was spread out over a year, I hope to do another one soon.
    I called this one “Scoops”.

    PS. thank you Jonni

  • Just some progress pics of a rain stick giraffe I’m working on right now. The rainstick is a groupchallenge on the Paper Mache Art Facebook group right now if anyone would like to join in on it. The giraffe part I came up with on the go for the one I’m making. It will become a giraffe that when it looks up to the sky for rain to come the rain stick will play. Or if it lowers it’s head it will rain depending on the starting point… Not a life size one this time 😀 Just a small one that fits on the fireplace mantel. For more details on the pictures just visit the album on facebook.com/TrashintoTreasures If you click the pictures you will be able to read the description of the different steps. Work in progress.

    • A rain stick giraffe. Soul, you come up with such clever ideas! And I didn’t know about that Facebook page. Thanks for telling us about it.

    • Soul, you are entertaining and informative. What a great idea. It seems like to me I might have a rain stick somewhere. Would it be cheating to put the rain stick in the neck of a giraffe? You are the best. Thanks.

      • Once again trying to post after all. It hasn’t been working so far. I’ve put my replies on your comments on the facebook page because they just keep disappearing here.

        Fifth try with a different email address: Joni, your name and website is frequently mentioned by many on that group as a recommended source of experience and expertise.
        Thank you Rex. The group challenge is a rainstick not a giraffe tongue emoticon But I’m sure if you made the rainstick yourself earlier that would be fine, and any paper mache work is welcomed there anyways grin emoticon
        Love seeing everyones work. Saw some really inspiring pieces.
        Here is a little update on the rainstick giraffe. Did some more shaping of the face and used some marbles to create the eyes. Next up, eyelashes :)

        By now the eyelashes are on too and the body has been started. I put birdsand in the hindlegs to counterweight the rainstick neck and that seems to work real nicely. It’s standing very sturdy now when lifting the head.

        • It seems it’s the gmail accounts that get blocked from posting Jonni, with a yahoo account it does get through and I get the awaiting moderation.

        • Soul, your giraffe is marvelous. It makes me laugh. So cute.

          I made a piggy bank (somewhere on this site) that had long eyelashes. I gave it to my sister. Her cat immediately chewed them off. Just saying. Good job.

          • Haha Rex, no cats here to chew of eyelashes :p

            I bet Regina would make a great rainstick too like in the tail, or making a long necked dino would work too.

            I’m glad you are amused by the things I make, peoples smiles are the best bonus.

            Quite frankly the baby goat is something else haha, I’m tangled up in trying to figure out how to wire it. Never thought there would be so much to learn in making marionette controls and how to wire them. Interesting nevertheless though.

          • Soul, You always seem to make a project come together, so I can’t wait to see your goat walking around. Thanks, rx

  • I volunteer in a Public School PreK and thought it might be fun to make a large paper mache dinosaur with the kids to go with the Dino theme the children were studying. I had never done anything of this size myself and had also not done this with preschoolers so it was a bit of trial and error. Needless to say, when you let go of expectations, observe the children in the process and adapt to meet their needs, it can be a fun project. The children were involved with the entire process after the armature was made. I think the most fun was applying the clay and painting. Since we really did not know what color a dinosaur was the children picked their own colors. They used red, blue, green, purple…When that dried we applied a green wash over the rainbow of colors. Here is the finished dino.

    • Kathleen, I love your dino. The freedom with the colors is great, and I’m sure the children had a great time. (My neighbor wants a dino for his garden, but I’m not sure how to do one that would withstand the elements!) Thanks for showing us.

      • Thanks Rex, we really had a lot of fun making the dino.
        I know Jonni has experimented with some outdoor sculptures on the website. I also think there is one artist who made a mountain lion sculpture but I do think they are using quick crete cement mixture. I have made stepping stones with that and have thought about experimenting using it like the paper mache clay on an armature to see if it could withstand the outdoors.

    • Very nice – the bronze coating and patina really looks nice. They look like masks that could have been forged ages ago.

  • These theater masks were a commission for a fellow artist’s granddaughter. I used Jonni’s smooth air dry clay and finished it with the metallic bronze coating. Instead of using the tiffany green patina, I tried out a violet patina stain from Sculpt Nouveau, the person wanted some purple in the sculpture but also wanted the bronze. The purple is evident in bright sunlight but not really when indoors. We shall see if it will be acceptable. In any case, it was fun trying out a new finish.

  • This is my goat farmer. It is on a bamboo base…thought I would try something different. This piece will also go to the art show.

  • Hello all, I have a few sculptures to share with you. I finally got around to taking pictures today. This first one is of my crows. I made a mess of the legs when I dropped the whole thing. I needed to repair all four of the legs! The repair turned out well. This one will be going to an art show in Oct.

    • Beautiful work, Eileen. I’m particularly fond of those crows. By the way, I’m sure I’ve asked before, but do you have a website or an etsy page?

      • I do not…I think I am too lazy…computer tech stuff drives me crazy. Yet another reason to admire you as you do this every day! One of these days I may do the Etsy thing before my house gets totally overrun with sculptures! One has to make room for more!
        I am fond of crows myself, such characters. I took a tip from you and I used 3 types of varnish. High gloss for the eyes, semi gloss for the beaks and the legs, then matte for the feathers. I found the piece of wood on the side of the road. It was well aged and it has all these little hieroglyphics etched into it by little boring bugs. You cant see it in the photo but it adds to the charm. Of course, the dog thought it was for her to fetch with, I need to teach her more to use her artistic eye.

    • Eileen, I really love these. My neighbor has a crow (had two but one “disappeared”) named “Poe” and he loves to come for a visit. It didn’t take long to fall in love with him. He doesn’t much like my dog, Loki, but he loves to come for a treat. They are very smart. So I was very happy to see these. You did a great job in catching their attitudes. Nice platform, also. Thanks.

        • Is he tame? My great uncle had some pet crows, but I never got to see them – they just starred in a lot of family stories.

          • Jonni, yes, he is tame. There were three of them, no feathers and eyes not open, that fell out of a tree — nest and all. Two of them lived. We don’t know what happened to the other one, who was very tame and bossy. Caesar. He would come to me. Poe is more shy, but when my neighbor is around, he sits on his shoulder constantly. Very tame. Bossy. And don’t leave any shiny objects outside. He loves raspberries! It is a wonder to see them up close.

        • Rex, thanks for your comments and for sharing Poe with us. Somehow, I did not get an email with your comments so I just found them today. Crows are wonderful, aren’t they? The inspiration for the crow sculpture was seeing a bunch of crows outside my vet’s home. They were the fattest crows I have ever seen. Apparently they wait outside every morning for the vet assistant to come feed them peanuts. If she is late, they start cawing and generally making a ruckus. I knew I had to do a sculpture after hearing the story. I love the pic of Poe. You are lucky to have captured it.

  • Hi Jonni,
    I’ve now re-sized the picture and I’m sending it to you via my laptop rather than my ipad so I really hope that this time, you get it. This is the figure that I was telling you about that was in an exhibition and has just been sold. As I said, you have been a huge influence and have inspired me to make papier mache figures…..all the time now!! Thank you Jonni. Going to press ‘post’ now so I hope you get it!

    • I got it! And it’s no wonder that it sold – it’s a beautiful piece. Is there a story behind it, or is it a portrait of a friend? And you probably told us already, but how big is it?

      • Thanks Jonni! No story to it, just a humorous take on some observations! Not meant to be serious? She’s called ‘Chelsea’ and she’s about 17 cm tall.

      • Jonni thanks for the recipe. I have been able to do projects that I could have not done before. I have created for a restaurant a spoon licking itself, a giant Bass for a bait shop, and many animated sculptor’s for business’s. My question is can bought clay be mixed with Jonni clay without breaking it down? Will it be as sturdy as Jonni clay? From your friend pogo art (Gary Chapman) cartoonist & sculptor.

          • Gary, that spoon is gorgeous and whimsical. The eatery should put that in a place where everybody who comes in will see it. It just brings a smile to anyone’s face.

        • Hi Gary. I have mixed small amounts of pottery clay into the pm clay recipe, and it doesn’t appear to change the final result except to make it slightly smoother. I don’t know if oil-based clays would work or not, but I have my doubts. What are you trying to achieve by adding the clay?

          And do you happen to have a photo of that Bass? I would love to see it.

          • Thanks for the information on the bought clay mix with Jonni clay. I will try to send a photo of the fish as well as some more of my work.

          • I want to have a smooth and sturdy clay Jonni. I have other stocked clay which I use but Jonni clay is smoother and sturdier than most bought clays. So unless It is stone or metal I will probably use Jonni clay. It is sturdy, smooth, and light. I think I just did a ad for Jonni clay.

      • Not yet…until selling this piece, I’ve only ever done commissions for friends and given them away. I’m working on a website at the moment, but in the meantime, you can see more of my sculptures on my gallery page at papiermache.co.uk
        Thanks again Jonni…if I hadn’t seen your YouTube clips, I would never have found this amazing interest!

  • A year ago I saw one of your YouTube clips and became completely obsessed with papier mâché! Now I make figures, have had a few commissions, and have just had one accepted into an exhibition and it’s sold! Thank you Jonni!

  • Hi Jonni, a year ago, I saw one of your YouTube clips and became completely obsessed with papier mâché! I bought your book and made several of your animals, but now I make figures. I’ve just had one accepted into an exhibition and it has sold! Thank you Jonni! I’m going to try to send you a picture, but it may be too big.

      • Still didn’t work. Is the image under 250K? If so, are you using an iPhone? Some people have told me that the system doesn’t work with iPhones, but I can’t test it myself because I don’t have one. We really want to see that figure, so if the file size isn’t the problem, contact me so we can figure out why it isn’t working.

    • I don’t know why they come out sideways sometimes, but we can still see that it’s a very unique sculpture. There has to be a story behind it – care to share?

    • Diann, What a great idea. I love this piece. Can you tell us how you did the wall of the houses? I love the magic of it all. Thanks.

      • How did you connect the foamcore together? One of the reasons I’m asking is that I’ve had some difficulties with warping. Some pieces don’t seem to mind and others bend. How thick is the foamcore? I don’t suppose the whole house is filled with foamcore. Thanks. Love the scene.

      • Thank you Rex.
        If you check in Jonni’s other section on her web site you will find a how-to that she posted for this project. If you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to ask them. I will be happy to answer them for you.

        • Thanks Diann and Jonni. I will definitely check it out. I appreciate it.

          I would love to make a few “houses” for my sister. This one looks perfect.

  • Here is my second piece it is titled “Once in a Blue Moon”. The cottage is made from paper clay cobblestones using Jonni’s clay. This is over a foam core frame. The moon is made from foam core and paper strips with mâché paste and then covered in celluclay for a rougher finish. The smaller house is foam core and Jonni’s clay. The tree is a wire armature and paper strips from a novel as I find this paper is nicer to work with than newspaper.
    All pieces were painted with tole paint and then three coats of varnish.

  • Hi Everyone,
    Here is my first attempt at using Jonni’s paper clay. It is a self portrait that I titled “Me Myself and I”. I found the clay worked well on the thin wire armature and was easy to work with. I painted the figures in black tole paint and then added a grey wash with a sponge and wiped lightly with a cloth before it tried. The sculpture was then coated with three coats of a water base varnish.
    I thank you Jonni for sharing your talent so I can enjoy the art of mâché.

    • Neat piece, one can tell you are an artist. Did you put the clay directly on the wire or did you apply masking tape first? Those thin wires are always difficult for me. Congrats on both of your posted sculptures. Be sure to keep posting!

      • Thank you Eileen for your nice comment. I did cover the wire in masking tape first. Then in one layer of paper with mâché paste.

  • My first ever paper mache project. I’ve always wanted to get into clay sculpting but I don’t have the space or money to pursue it seriously. That is when i decided to try out paper mache and came across this wonderful website. I made my dog using everything I learned from this site. My paper mache clay came out very chunky and required a ton of sanding (I used too much pressure with my hands when draining toilet paper). I couldn’t sand it out all nice and smooth like I wanted to so I just decided to go with a worn-out and distressed look. I cant wait to start on my next project.

      • oops – the second image didn’t come through. Was it too big, perhaps? Images must be under 250K.

    • Beautiful! Is this a portrait of a dog you know? By the way, if you want the pm clay to come out smoother, just use less paper next time. You can reduce the paper by 25% and the clay will still be very strong when it dries, but it will be smoother and easier to sand.

    • Well Andrew, for a first projects with troubles and travails, this portrait of your dog came out fantastic. The antique look gives it a lot of character and charm.

    • Well done Andrew! This dog (a Great Dane, right?) is just wonderful! You have captured a marvelous expression and I just love the mouth. The paint job was great. Welcome to the daily sculptors!

    • Andrew, having tried many dogs myself, I think I could use lessons from you. I really like your dog. I admire how you sculpted the nose and mouth. Great. Can’t wait to see your next one.

      I “struggled” with the texture of clay I made for about a year. What I do now is weigh the paper. If I use 72 g of dry paper, place it in the water, and then squeeze out the water until it weighs 330 g wet. This is a personal preference of how I like my clay to feel, so you might experiment. (I use 200 g of glue; 440 g Joint Compound; 70 g flour; 25 g linseed or baby oil.) Just a suggestion.

  • I am a huge fan of all things Disney, and Goofy has always been my favorite Disney character. After my family and I had taken a trip to Disneyworld in August, my kids commented on how the Goofy at the park does not look much like the Goofy from the cartoons, and I had to agree. I had been playing around with the idea of a Disney Halloween costume for quite awhile, but unfortunately no one sells any Disney character costumes, other than the princesses of course. I even looked online for a good Goofy or Mickey costume, and the only thing I found were some cheap, horrible looking mascot costumes being sold from China. So I decided to try and make my own Goofy mask out of paper mache, and in doing so to make a costume that was much truer to the original cartoon character.

    • He certainly does look like the Goofy I remember. Great job, Danny.Did you wear him last Halloween, or are you getting a jump on next Halloween?

      • Thank you Jonni! I wore it last Halloween, and it was an immediate hit around the neighborhood. I actually had little kids lining up to meet, or shake hands with, or even take pictures with Goofy. It was great! One lady even asked if I would do birthday parties.

        I also want to thank you personally for your blog, Jonni; without which I never would have believed that I had the skill set necessary to do something like this. Your projects are always so entertaining, and inciteful. As a truly amazing teacher and artist, you make it look fun and easy.

  • This is my first finished paper clay project, it was a gift for a wedding shower. The center of the base, tree and date sign are clay, the leaves and base are burlap…her motif will be rustic.

    • Hi Holly. Did you intend to post a photo with your comment? If you did, we didn’t get to see it. The image may be too large for the site (250K max), and some people have said that the system doesn’t work when trying to upload a photo with an iPhone. I do hope you’ll try again – we would love to see that tree.

  • Hi, everyone. I love this site and appreciate the constant input and inspiration.

    I have been working on 3 dinosaurs for my sister. I couldn’t come to terms with painting the first two so I made this one while waiting for a muse to come. This is the only one painted so far. I haven’t put a finish on it yet, so I am open to suggestions. I took many photos, but I think this was the best one – maybe because Loki was supervising me.

    • Loki is a good muse, Rex. Your dinosaur really came out nice. Are you deciding what varnish to use, matte or gloss?

      • Thanks, Jonni,

        My favorite finish these days is the FolkArt Clearcote Acrylic Sealter, Matte Finish.

        I did an undercoat on her and then had a brighter blue and yellow, but I wasn’t happy with it, so I dulled everything down. Here is a closer look at her face. Hopefully T-Rex-Regina will be done soon. The painting has been a big hurdle for me.

        So you moved. Hope you settle quickly and all is well. Thanks again.

    • Karen, that is a very interesting technique you came up with. I would love to see more. I agree with Jonni. Did you put the paper mache directly on the foam or cover it with tape; in other words, I think a guest post would be very interesting. Thanks.

  • I have been making soft sculpture cloth dolls for many years but every time I tried turning my skills to clay I was unsuccessful. Then I came across your video sculpting a cat using paper mache clay. I never thought to use cardboard for the general form so I gave it a try. I cut a child’s profile from cardboard and filled it in with newspaper and masking tape. It was amazing. My doll is not perfect, but she is the best I have ever done. I think it’s because the newspaper form is soft …similar to soft sculpture. The only thing I didn’t like is the weight. Her head is just a little to heavy. So I took a trip to the big box store and looked around. I found a can of spray foam insulation. I sprayed some foam on a piece of wax paper and let it dry. Then I carved out the arms and legs. I sanded them smooth, added wire to the fingers and coated them with a thin layer of paper mache clay. The results were perfect. I got light weight limbs that are hard and durable. I have included some pictures. Thank you so much for helping me improve my doll making skills.

    • Karen, your doll came out really nice – and I’m really impressed with the method you used to make the arms and legs. (Your image of the legs didn’t come through, unfortunately.) Would you be interested in writing a guest post for us showing how you made your doll? More people would get to see it that way, and I know I’m not the only one who would like to try your method for our own sculptures. If you have the time and you’d like to do it, just send me an email and let me know.

    • I would love to see a tutorial. It never occurred to me to use filler foam. I wish I had read this yesterday as I went to our local diy store today. I would have picked up a tin of the foam

  • Hi everyone, this is the piece I was lucky enough to get in a show over the weekend. The show was a tribute to Jim Henson. There were some many wonderful works of art there.

    • Marilyn, I went to your Facebook page and saw your entry, and it turned out great. I bet you are thrilled that your work was chosen, congratulations.

      • Hi everyone

        Thanks Jonni and Christine. I am sorry about my photos I thought they uploaded and they didn’t. I will try again to upload a few pictures. Going to the show was great and I got to meet another paper mache artist in person :-) someone I only knew of on line.

  • Here is my first attempt at a mask using your fast setting paste recipe following the Pantalone and the Portrait Mask videos. The mask is of a character named Dallas from the video Payday the Heist. I think it turned out alright, but since I didn’t pay enough attention to the edges the mask is a little soft. I feel like straps might eventually rip the mask since it is attached at the weakest part of the mask. Might reenforce it with more layers of fast setting paste on the inside of the mask since I already painted the mask. Would that work?

    • Excellent, Melissa. Very nicely done, and a great design. And yes, you can add more layers of shop towels and paste to reinforce the edge. Just paste probably won’t help, but layering the towels and the paste will make it much stronger.

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